D22 Italian Tune Up

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I'm curious about this too. I wasn't aware of any country specific tuning (apart from the two notable Italian vehicle manufacturers that would have specialists to conduct their tuning because the owners can afford it, right?).
 
what`s that, a 350 holley and a hot dog on the pipe? (((-: annddd a pair of fuzzy dice and don`t forget the 8 ball shifter knob, (the total werribee collection bro)
 
Apologies guys,
Italian tune up where you warm the engine up driving for about 10 mins or so then give it a fair bit of stick moving through in high rpm in each gear. Rinse and repeat a few times. Its apparently supposed to help burn off carbon deposits in the engine.
Lol, fluffy dice.
 
I've always heard of that referred to as a "bush tune".

High engine revs mean higher heat and higher flows and in a petrol car that might shift a bit of muck from the pistons, but the intake manifold is normally quite clean because it's usually a vacuum - the cylinders actively draw everything in.

In a turbo diesel the intake manifold is under positive pressure nearly all the time. This doesn't mean it's going to push the gunk into the combustion chamber when it opens (it will, but not ALL of it) - it does mean that it can deposit the gunk anywhere in the manifold at all (because pressure works equally in all directions).

There are a couple of things you CAN do.

1) Block the EGR. EGR contains soot, soot combines with PCV oil vapour and forms a black sticky goo that doesn't move. Blocking the EGR removes the soot from the equation completely.

2) Fit a catch can. This removes most of the oil vapour from the intake path. There'll still be a small amount, but nothing like what you had before.

3) Clean the intercooler. No, not the outside of it. Pop it out, grab some pure unleaded (not 2-stroke, not metho, not xylene etc - it MUST be unleaded petrol). Block one side of the intercooler with your hand, pour in about 100ml of petrol and block the other side and turn it over and over letting the fuel flow through as much of the paths as possible. Repeat a few times until you can see the petrol colour coming out. Empty it, let it sit to dry for an hour, then reinstall.

You could also use Liqui Moly Diesel Purge (extreme) or Liqui Moly Fuel System Cleaner (easy, just $25 at SCA, pour into the fuel tank and drive it). These will clean the fuel paths, including SCV (vital), injectors (yep) and the rail.
 
Hey Tony,
Now that you mention it i have heard of it also being called a bush tune.
In the process of blocking the egr, waiting for them to arrive in the post. Was hoping to try an get rid of any carbon build up already in the air system so was also thinking of a liqui moly diesel intake decarb. Anyone ever used it?
Will definately be putting the oil catch can in, on the list of to-do`s for the Nav.
In regards to cleaning of the inside of the intercooler, does egr exhaust make it that far through the system? Once i have cleaner the intercooler and blocked off the egr will it really need to be cleaned again?.
Apologies for all the questions.
 
Questions are what we're here for!

EGR blocks are perfect in the older models, but the newer ones have flow detectors so they need a small hole to satisfy the sensor.

Catch cans aren't perfect. The idea is to cause the oil vapour to condense in the can so that it doesn't make it through to the air path. That means the catch can has to be cool enough to cause all of the vapour to return to a liquid and at moderate engine RPM the PCV is flowing reasonably well - so that condensation has to happen fast (which it doesn't).

There are a couple of tricks to employ with the catch can. First is to have a ball of stainless steel wool (like a pot scrubbing scourer) at the bottom of the catch can which you've put a vertical divider (with holes at the bottom) in. Extend the input pipe so that it rests near the bottom. Incoming gas+vapour will hit the scourer (which has a very large surface area) and condense - but not completely. However, the can will get enough oil to cover the inlet pipe causing it to bubble through the can contents and that will catch most of it.

Something to NOT be concerned about is water in the can. Expect some - water is a byproduct of combustion, so it's naturally going to be in the exhaust/PCV!
 
Got the blanking plates today, they very bloody sturdy which is great, hope to get them installed this weekend.
That's all makes sense about the pot scourer/surface area and the oil vapour.
Will be one of the next mods when I get a little but more $$.
Will be picking everyone brains abit more about it once I pick one up.Thanks
 
I don't understand what you mean mate, what is an Italian tune up?.
I used to hear of this being called a poor mans tune in the 80's and so it is. I had a look and there is a few things on YouTube showing the way they do it. To remove carbon deposits ect will never be done by shaking the $hit out of your motor and a diesel would howl in pain. I just drive hard on the hwy every month and that blows the cobwebbs out. That's the HJ way.
Cheers
 
When I was a mechanic at Ford, the Holden boys across the yard said they did this to the Holden Rodeo diesels around the 2000 year model, especially the ones that just got driven around the farms without much rpm use.

They use to go down the airport strip and rev them in 2nd/3rd and sit on the rpm governor for a while, apparently the heat and what not really helped blow out the 'cobwebs' and they always ran better afterwards.
 

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