How to Remove the Dash in a 2010 ST-X

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contacted by the seller last night to say he is going to post me a set of cables to suit the Qashqai/Almera/Xtrail which he believes will fix the problem. He apologised lots, and has been EXTREMELY helpful.

Also wants to know if I work out what the extra cables are for (Microphone and Phone button the steering wheel are my guess at the moment) then he will see about getting a new loom made up with them in it. Really extremely impressed.

Well at least, I'll be impressed when I have the new cables and the unit is in and working :D
 
ST & KC only has 1 screw holding the fascia on, that's why it rattles and squeaks so much.

One gripe I had with my D40 was the amount of rattles & squeeks from the interior trim. Probably didn't help having 235/35/R24 tyres on it. It got to me so much that I pulled the dash apart and sandwiches bits of foam when I put it back together. Pretty much fixed it.

No rattles/squeeks from my D22 interior :rock:
 
No rattles/squeeks from my D22 interior :rock:

That's because they don't put anything in the D22 :eviltongue:

Did you find any specific squeaks in the D40 or did you just stick foam everywhere hoping that you'd stop atleast some of it?

I've got one low speed acceleration squeak which I think is something I've done but it hasn't annoyed me enough to look for yet otherwise I haven't got any squeaks or rattles.
 
Oh I'm not denying it Dave but by your own admission (and I mean the D22 collective not just you) I can't cut hair in a D22 and that would render all my scissors and curlers useless and I don't want to do that.
 
yup it does, but the unit is short enough that it doesnt even come close to the cross member thanks. oh and the connections are already 90 degree jobbies :D

I've found a guys install pics installing into a 2007 Almera... and its the same plugs. That lead me to a UK website which sells the adaptors. At least now I know they exist, but I don't want to have to get em sent over from the UK considering I bet they are made in china to begin with... just need to find somewhere to buy them


Great information thread!! Thanks for taking the time to post up this stuff.

Sooo..., How did you get on with the installation? Did you do a cut and shut on the wires...,or did you manage to find an adapter harness?

I'm very interested, as I have one of these Chinese units in my 2006 STX, and was hoping to transplant it into the new STX550 (if it gets here in January as promised). It was very easy to install using the Aerpro APP091 harness. I assume that the STX550 will be the same harness as the 2010 STX's.
I'm also wondering if you need to a buy steering wheel control converter for these head units like this one
http://cars2.ebay.com.au/STEERING-W...athfinder_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ260700922499
for the steering wheel controls to work on the 2010 models.

On the pre-2010 models, where the antenna plugs hit on the tubular cross member, another option (apart from the 90 degree bends from Jaycar) is to unscrew the back off the unit and remount the GPS and TV connections on each side of the unit. Worked a treat for me
 
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well to be honest I ended up sending the unit back as I was not able to get the cables sorted in what I considered to be a reasonable amount of time.

I wasn't happy with the sounds quality from the unit in my tests anyway, so I think I was lucky it didn't fit. Oh, and the sound quality of the bluetooth HF was shithouse.

I ended up giving into my car stereo fetish and buying a Pioneer AVIC-F900BT (Pioneer Scratch and Dent shop FTW!) and have since installed that. It's possible to software hack them to run Oziexplorer, so in my mind it is a better unit. Having said that, I use my iPad for topo mapping anyway, so I'll probably just get a windscreen mount for that and be done with it.

I managed to get cables off ebay that meant no cut and shut, and the Pioneer needs an addon module to get the steering wheel controls working which I haven't yet bought. That harness you linked is a maybe... tho I really doubt it as it seems to be for a wired remote, and thats NOT what you need (at least from the unit I had) In fact, thats what I need to convert the Pioneer one (I think!)
 
Great,
Thanks for the info.

Are you saying that you could only get cables to suit the Pioneer unit.. or are they ISO cables which would suit both??

Once again, thanks for posting your experiences. It sure saves us a lot of time:top::top:
 
Hey
I have Just Recently Purchaced a MY010 Navara St-X and a Kenwood DDX8036BT...
Has anybody made a steering wheel control harness to suit 2010 navaras and if so does anybody have a link to buy one???

Cheers
 
Cogo I believe it was Uncyspam above who had to mod his head unit do a search of his posts and see what you come up with.
 
Does anyone know what the story is with the aerial cable on these, I have a polaris piece of shit and it goes off next to buildings etc, guessing the aerial isn't attached
 
As far I remember from posts back a year or so ago most after market head units needed an adapter to make the antenna come out at right angles to the unit rather than straight out (or something like that). Not sure if Polaris ones needed that type of thing but it was a common issue from what others have reported.
 
Nah its different in these ones, plenty room behind but weird aerial connection. (I just read this post, its shown in one of the photos).
I'm guessing thats why my radio has crap reception since the idiots at polaris put the new one in, guess they just didn't put the aerial in.

They also took to my dash with a grinder/router/dremel of some description to fit the new unit and made an arse of it
 
i hope your aware you need another attachment to run your bluetooth through the steering wheel as well its called a blutooth relay or something its an additional $300 on top unless u havent already got it.
 
So, in spite of the fact I didn't know how to get the dash off in the new ST-X I went ahead and ordered myself a new head unit to install. I figured this would apply the right amount of pressure to get me to work out how to get into the dash.

I can now report that the way into the dash is as follows...

Pull up the cup holder. It will simply pop out.

IMAG0059.jpg


IMAG0057.jpg


Next, unscrew the gear stick head off the lever.
Then pull the surround of the gear stick (the silver bit, not the leather) backwards. this should just pop out. Remove the 3 cables plugged into it and place aside.

IMAG0055.jpg


Despite your temptations... IGNORE the screws. you do not need to undo them to be able to get into the dash.


Next, pull the bottom of the dash panel toward you. It should pop loose. It is held in place with two push tabs. Then working upwards, pull the dash toward you as close to the top as you can. It is held in place with three push tabs. Remove the 4 cables plugged into it and place aside. I've marked the location of the push tabs in red so you know what you are pulling at.

IMAG0052.jpg


The top three tabs are marked in red here - they need a bit of a pop to pull the piece out.


Does anyone know if this still applies to 2012 ST-X dash panels ?
I can get the cup holder & gear shift surround off OK, but I can't get the bottom of the dash panel to pop.
I think I'll pull the radiator through the windscreen before that dash will move.
There's got to be a trick to this.
 
From memory the bottom bit of the dash comes off from above (i.e you have to remove bits from the radio down first) and there is two screws holding it in.

I don't believe the dash has changed much over the years, try downloading the D40 manual (or search for the Frontier one since it's readily available) and it will give you step by step directions for earlier models and you can get an idea where every screw and clip in located.
 

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