lsd front vs lokka

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Benengel

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Hey guys,
I was thinking about either putting a lokka in the front and leaving it like that.
or if it was possible, swap the rear and front diffs out and have the lokka on the rear and lsd front??

any opinions?
 
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front and rear diffs are different sizes so you can't swap them.

lokka in the front is ok but you will need to install a set of lockable hubs.
auto lockers are actually locked by default and you unlock them by coasting in the turn.
so for on road driving you need it unlocked hence the need for front hubs.
 
All the d22s around here have manual free wheeling hubs.

Yeah they're a good thing.
When turning you power through the turn which causes the ouside wheel to unlock. If u try to coast slowly it will bind up and turning is very difficult.
 
I went harrop elocker in the front, works a treat... need to do the rear though, 300,000k on it!

What do the d22 use for aftermarket rear locker diffs?
 
Us aussies only got dual cabs with manual front hubs. The single cabs I believe had fixed hubs like yours. You shouldn't have any trouble getting a pair pf genuine ones from a wrecker over here if you don't want aftermarket ones.

As for the rear diff, I'm pretty sure you can get an e-locker for it. Not sure on an air locker but maybe.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 
When turning you power through the turn which causes the ouside wheel to unlock. If u try to coast slowly it will bind up and turning is very difficult.
they do not work like that.
the more power you put down the harder they lock. you have to get off the power for them to unlock.
this is what makes them quirky to drive on the road (rear diff).

if you power it you will rip up the ground and the wheel slips instead of the diff. thats why its not binding up when you power through a turn.
 
Us aussies only got dual cabs with manual front hubs. The single cabs I believe had fixed hubs like yours. You shouldn't have any trouble getting a pair pf genuine ones from a wrecker over here if you don't want aftermarket ones.

As for the rear diff, I'm pretty sure you can get an e-locker for it. Not sure on an air locker but maybe.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

Oooo elocker would be expensive now, i got mine when our dollar was worth the same as the U.S..
 
If u fit it yourself $5-600 for a lokka, maybe $1600 for an e locker, add 4-500 for a nechanic to fit it for you.
 
they do not work like that.
the more power you put down the harder they lock. you have to get off the power for them to unlock.
this is what makes them quirky to drive on the road (rear diff).

if you power it you will rip up the ground and the wheel slips instead of the diff. thats why its not binding up when you power through a turn.
I can assure you that when your up the the hills in low range if you try to roll around a switchback you wont make the turn, it binds up and you go almost straight ahead, but if you put your foot down and "drive" thru the corner the steering will free up and the vehicle will come around.
 
I can assure you that when your up the the hills in low range if you try to roll around a switchback you wont make the turn, it binds up and you go almost straight ahead, but if you put your foot down and "drive" thru the corner the steering will free up and the vehicle will come around.

yes thats quite correct. but its because the tire or the ground is giving way not the locker.
if you look at the where the drive pin goes through the locker, the hole isn't round. its got sloped ends to it, ie a ramp which acts as a caming surface. the drive pin pushes each half of the locker out to keep the teeth of the locker in mesh.
the only way for the locker to unlock is for drive pin to come off the ramp which then allows the half of the locker to slide over and disengage its teeth.

btw going uphill is also the worse situation because you always have power on.
very difficult to coast when powering up hill.
thats why i've taken my rear auto locker out and fitted lsd back in.
 
Afaik the lokka works by allowing the outside wheel to slip over the slight cam shaped gears in the lokka and go a bit faster where necessary (ie. cornering). So the outside wheel can over ride the lokka and go faster, but never slower than the speed it's being driven at.

Cornering on soft ground at low speeds, and especially when applying power it's more likely to slip over the ground because there is less resistance to overcome and also because the wheel doesn't have rolling momentum to help it jump over the mesh of the lokka.

So it's not strictly true that "applying power" won't allow the wheel to jump over the gears, it depends on which forces predominate (ie. whether there is enough traction between tyre and road). But in any practical sense tweak'e is right IMO. It's not that big a deal though, and the steering is a bit heavier in general.

What is more noticeable is after easily crawling to the top of a track, watching others with open diffs struggle, bouncing and spinning wheels everywhere. :big_smile:

Have seen auto lokkas installed on vehicles without free wheeling hubs, where the front axles are always spinning, without any noticeable problems re highway driving. These seem like a crappy setup for off roading to begin with though. If you damage a cv or front diff in these things and your'e stuck. Either have to get parts and repair in situ, or get it flat bedded if possible. Have seen it happen.
 
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Hmmm, very interesting fellas. Given 99% of my driving is to and from work, Bunnings etc and when in 4wd I am in places that might well need a locker this is very attractive. Cheaper and very achievable for a diy job from what I have read. I would love an elocker fitted but until I am more wealthy (lotto ticket bought!) this is a good option
 
Hmmm, very interesting fellas. Given 99% of my driving is to and from work, Bunnings etc and when in 4wd I am in places that might well need a locker this is very attractive. Cheaper and very achievable for a diy job from what I have read. I would love an elocker fitted but until I am more wealthy (lotto ticket bought!) this is a good option
Can't get much better bang for buck. Unless you make your own cig locker haha.

If you have trouble with steering, you can always unlock one hub and still have 3wd anyway...

Sent from my moto g(6) plus using Tapatalk
 
Hmmm, very interesting fellas. Given 99% of my driving is to and from work, Bunnings etc and when in 4wd I am in places that might well need a locker this is very attractive. Cheaper and very achievable for a diy job from what I have read. I would love an elocker fitted but until I am more wealthy (lotto ticket bought!) this is a good option

downside with them is they don't take a lot of abuse. i think at least one manufacture of auto lockers has a tire size limit on it.
because its a fight between tire traction and power on the diff, something has to give. the more traction you have ie big tires, the more strain is on the locker.
typically they break the pins which you can get replacements easy enough.

on standard tires they loose grip easy enough. mine will chirp the tires on tarseal.
if you power on in the turn it forces the locker to lock and it will go in with a bang and shake the vehicle as one wheel has to loose traction. (this is with rear diff).
on gravel roads the tires just dig up the road.

at least on the front you can unlock hubs, resort to 3 wheel drive or go back to 2 wheel drive.
 

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