Battery light on dash staying on

i had the same problem found it had a cracked wire in the outer field were its bent at a stupid angle it finally failed and wouldnt charge at all....played up for six months before dying

seventies47 said:

FIX FIX FIX....DO NOT REPLACE YOUR ALTERNATORS....This fault is common on D22, it is a high resistance within the instrument cluster charging circuit, lamp stays on and doesnt charge until revs raised. Easy way to confirm- Connect a test lamp between the battery and pin 3(Y/B wire) on the alternator when the fault occurs, the alternator will immediately start charging. . Then get your instrument cluster repaired. You can thank me later..

Click to expand...

How do I "fix" the cluster?

Bump.

How do I fix this issue?

following, i have the same problem.

bryan

You need to take the cluster apart and replace the charging system diode, these can fail and give a low voltage to the alternator causing a no-charge situation. To confirm this is the cause of your fault, idle the vehicle (warning lamp on, alternator not charging) then apply 12v from the battery through a test lamp to pin 3 of the alternator (Y/B from memory)) The alternator should immediately start charging and the lamp will go out. If this occurs, you very likely have a faulty diode.

Bringing back an old thread here, hoping to get some more info on this fault. I have the same issue where my charge light wont go away on initial start until I rev it to 1500 odd RPM.

Can anyone advise which diode inside the cluster circuitry needs replacement? I cracked it open last night and found all components are nicely labelled, assuming its one that starts with Dxxx.

Some pictures attached. Taking a wild guess that its D201 as circled in red as its the closest diode I can see to the charge lamp (LED206)

Any confirmation/advice would be much appreciated.

Mine's doing the same thing but I checked the charge rate of my alternator and its only charging at 12.2v at idle? So guessing it's stuffed?

My alternator finally died
And after getting it replaced
I had no issue with the light

Wow massive coincidence.. I was just about to do a search and possibly post a thread on this and it was up near the top of the list lol

So if this is happening is the jury in on replacing the alternator or the diode first? Don't wanna waste time effing with the cluster if I have to have my mechanic replace the alternator later anyways.

I've got this problem as well for the last 18 months or so. The battery light stays on and disappears when I rev it to around 1500rpm. The strange thing with my car is that it happens 95% of the time when I park at work on a hill. When I park on a level surface it rarely happens.

My turbo timer also shows voltage and always shows 11.9 volts till i'm about 3k from home when it goes to 13.8, never had the alternator light come on thou. Might have to check it works.

hello to all,for me,the battery light came on,was flickering and then on solid,didn't checked the charge rate,brushes were down,real down,had to get a pushed start before i got them change out,truck starting good.light came back,checked the charge rate now,was getting 15.5 v,took out the alternator,diode plate got damage from the overcharging,replace alternator,light still on and charging at 15.5,checked some more,the green wire with the white stripe wasn't getting any voltage,checked the fuses,all seem to be good.as a temporary measure we ran a wire from the erg swirl valve connector to that wire and both the charge rate going and the light going out,guess i should checked the diode in the instrument cluster.

Sorry to drag up an old thread but I am having similar issues
I have replaced alternator battery and checked all connections and fuses and still have to rev the engine on start up to 1500 rpm to get the light to go out .Also the Alt light comes while 4x4ing on steep hills. Which diode needs replacing ? Any help would be much appreciated

Hmmm it never stops with my girl, went to move it today and battery light is on constantly??? What the he'll, I haven't driven it In five days- how dose that happen from just sitting there lol danm thing it is...

Alt is only putting out 11.8 v, new Bosch six months ago... New battery same time ! Hmmm

The cluster trick is good to know...

It's usually a sign that the alternator isn't working, but before you jump and start reefing the thing out, I'd undo the electrical connections first, clean them and reconnect them. Battery (both terminals), alternator, earth point on the engine block. Also check fan belt tension to make sure it's tight.


When it's running, does it look like the alternator is turning over? I had an alternator fail not because the wiring died, but because the pulley came free from the shaft.


Oh, and whack a charger on that battery real fast, before it suffers permanent damage.

Is there any fluid dripping onto the alternator?

My wife's old BA wagon had an alternator failure because there was either brake fluid, or power steering fluid dripping onto the Alt (I can't remember which)

The auto sparky said it just slowly ate the wound copper away. It was expensive to replace from memory!

Old.Tony said:

It's usually a sign that the alternator isn't working, but before you jump and start reefing the thing out, I'd undo the electrical connections first, clean them and reconnect them. Battery (both terminals), alternator, earth point on the engine block. Also check fan belt tension to make sure it's tight.


When it's running, does it look like the alternator is turning over? I had an alternator fail not because the wiring died, but because the pulley came free from the shaft.


Oh, and whack a charger on that battery real fast, before it suffers permanent damage.

Click to expand...

I'll try it all Tony, it was all new and replaced when I did the injector pump..starter, alt, belts, tensioner pulley, battery all and I mean ALLL the earth mounts done...
Got me buggered...
I'll have another look at her today......just can't win eh

Ok, fired it up this morning and she started ok. the battery was showing 12.4 to 5 V before i hit the key - when fired the V are at the battery are 11.7 to 8 V ??

Got the battery on charge now Tony and I'll do what you have suggested , but to happen like it has- weird! Maybe dash cluster??
I have very limited skills and knowledge when it comes to auto electrics danm it!
I'll try the hot wire test for the dash and go from there I guess..

Oh, the alt is spinning internally and externally , no noise, smells or heat....

KevinE said:

Is there any fluid dripping onto the alternator?

My wife's old BA wagon had an alternator failure because there was either brake fluid, or power steering fluid dripping onto the Alt (I can't remember which)

The auto sparky said it just slowly ate the wound copper away. It was expensive to replace from memory!

Click to expand...

No, nothing it's spotless...

KevinE said:

Is there any fluid dripping onto the alternator?



My wife's old BA wagon had an alternator failure because there was either brake fluid, or power steering fluid dripping onto the Alt (I can't remember which)



The auto sparky said it just slowly ate the wound copper away. It was expensive to replace from memory!

Click to expand...

Would have been power steering fluid in a falcon as the alternator was mounted below the power steering pump / resovior setup in them. Navara's are ok in that the alternator is mounted away from everything.

As for the problem, are all the wires on the back of the alternator connected? I'd also check and see if there is a fusible link in the feed from the alternator to the battery and make sure that is ok too.

Would anyone know the page/file number in the manual for diagnosis?
I wanted to see what Nissan suggest regarding the check light being on constantly, would it be worth doing a etalk scan ? Or is that a stupid question.....