1x Drag Link useless after each outing.

Shorty4655 said:

I saw a photo somewhere of the tie rod ends fouling? Is that true?

Click to expand...

I can imagine how and where they could, I cant speak for the brand above as mine are custom made but I had to cut more parts of the big girl away, cause on full drop they were fouling, once the wheels were close to full lock. Even now they are still very close to hitting however there just isnt any more to cut away, could not imagine how you could get away with anything thicker then I'm already using.
How are these products holding up for u onemofo ?

As I'm up for a new drag link also

Shorty4655 said:

I saw a photo somewhere of the tie rod ends fouling? Is that true?

Click to expand...

Yeah that would have been mine. Have been talking to them about it, I'm going to try and loosen the steering box and idler arm and rotate away from the chassis to giv a bit more clearance, which will involve a little die grinding.
Still happy with the draglink though steering is the tightest it been since I owned it.

Not installed yet. But yes I have to cut a bit away as well. I'll keep u posted. But have had them delivered and they seem strong and the guy was quite helpful.

Once you replace your tie rod adjusters.
With heavy duty ones,you will always have to cut a bit of meat away,On the lower control arm.as for the size of the heavy duty Rod.it will have Contact.

You only need to grind about 3 to 4 mm off of it and it will stop the Contact!!!

Simple as...

I have done this and there is no problems!!!!

Good info,as I have my Hd tie rod kit from performance.Im just waiting to get my Grass roots Center link.Do you guys change the plastic bushing in the Idler arm.Even with my truck only 4 month old,I changed it to Pirate 4X4 Amco 45 bushings,also tapped in grease fitting.It took out some of the free play in steering. Getting better every day!

I fitted the performance suspension HD draglink about 3 months and several thousand km's ago now, and I am quite happy with it. Done a full wkend of 4wd'ing as well as 5 days on Fraser with the HD draglink, no issues. Needed an alignment done after install, but that's no surprise. Steering is nice and tight, and the vibration I used to get at 80-90 km/hr is all gone. Car is much nicer to drive now, especially on the highway.

From memory the differences between the factory draglink and Performance Suspension HD draglink is that the Perf Suspension HD version has both ball joints as rotate only (only passenger side ball joint was rotate only on my factory draglink), and apparently there was a nylon bush in there some where that was replaced with a metal bush.

I would recommend this draglink to any D22 owner. For info my car is raised about 2 inches up front.

Over the weekend I installed the Hd tie rods,and Grassroots center link.Did have to grind flange on cross member (Like Chris said) At full droop,inner tie rod bottom,is rubbing on facing front of cross member.Big hammer got some Clearance on Lt side.Rt side still rubbing.Will heat with torch,more hammer power. The grassroots center link Does away with The side with tie rod end.You have to remove Pittman arm,idler arm.Use drill press,to drill out to 5/8 hole.He gives you two 5/8 bolts hardened. Hope I can resolve clearance problems today.

I think rubbing tie rod fixed.The grassroots center link.Comes with thick washer,top and bottom.I added one more washer,in between Pittman arm,and idler arm.Since the grassroots cen link does not use tapper ed ends.Easy fix,I hope! Will drive truck to Alignment shop today. Then do 4x4 testing,to recheck,if still rubbing.Will post pictures soon.

Got truck Aligned .Rt inner tie rod still rubbing,on full droop.Even with two thick washers on top center link.To raise inner tie rode end.Heated Cross member,made dent 1/4 deep 3in long.Working perfect.

bajatrailrider said:

Got truck Aligned .Rt inner tie rod still rubbing,on full droop.Even with two thick washers on top center link.To raise inner tie rode end.Heated Cross member,made dent 1/4 deep 3in long.Working perfect.

Click to expand...

Could you throw up a photo with the washers please mate

Yes Mate,but if your using stock cent link,or one with tapered ends.Then you cant add washers.My grassroots cent link does not use tapered ends to mount pittman arm/idler arm.Lucky for me I got the grassroots cent link same time.Because even tho I heated cross member to dent in.I dont think I could have made it work,with out two grade 8 washers.On each side.Not great picture,I could re take.Its the two gold washers.The grassroots cent link is very good,but hardware to mount bolts,nuts,washers.Total crap.You buy the hardware,to mount then its good.

Ah yeah no good for me but good idea, bit more clearance gained now.

Tie Rods and Cent Link test

This coming Friday,will go on 4X4 run two nights,three days in Baja Mexico.With 17 4x4s.Will put the Performance tie rods,and Grass roots cent link to the test.Also hope not rubbing anymore,testing around backyard.Looking good.

to anyone who has fitted the performance suspensions draglink, the kit includes 8 washers.
I don't see any washers with the original setup, can anyone tell me where these are to be used?

I have emailed performance suspensions but they said its too long winded to explain by email and to call, but guess what... call... and sorry I don't have any technicians available right now...

ben85 said:

to anyone who has fitted the performance suspensions draglink, the kit includes 8 washers.
I don't see any washers with the original setup, can anyone tell me where these are to be used?

I have emailed performance suspensions but they said its too long winded to explain by email and to call, but guess what... call... and sorry I don't have any technicians available right now...

Click to expand...

The washers are to make the draglink level/parallel to the chassis, I put 4 each on the top 2 steering box bolts to raise it at the idler arm side. Spose to help with wear and gives more clearance for the tie rods.

Without the washers I think i had about a 25-30mm drop on the idler arm side.

so you put them between the top 2 steering box bolts and the chassis to sit the steering box on an angle?

that does seem odd.

That's right, I wasn't sure about it also so I fitted the draglink first than could see how far down it sat on the idler arm side compared to the pitman arm side, than measured the distance between the chassis and draglink than stuck in the washers to even it up. I'm not sure if the factory draglink were the same, I should have checked it first.

Are you fitting their tie rods also? I did and I needed the extra clearance but you could probs get away with it with the factory tie rods.

i have some new tie rods which i bought as spares, might swap them in at the same time, ill see how worn the originals feel after 200, 000 k's they could be buggered.
i have after market standard type replacements.

i've never had a problem with the tie rods or adjusters, id also rather let them break and carry spares then have extra load go through the rest of the steering system.

it seems strange to me that the steering box would need shimming like that.
i'll have a look and see how mine looks.

Did the Pole Line trail,Baja Mex 3 days.My Nissan should not have gone on the,Hard 3day trail.Most all Jeeps 35/37in tires.Lockers front/ rear.All trucks lifted.The Nissan made it never got stuck.The Tie rods did not rub.Even had to pull,Ford Bronco,with 35in tires,V8 motor with blower 5/6000 pounds.Broke down,The Nissan pulled it up hill climbs,pulled it 40 miles in deep sand (Baja 1000 course.All on trip where amazed,with little Nissan Diesel.All rigs where from USA.

cool lookin' bit of country side there.