D22 Front Diff Replacement

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hey guys.. Just about to remove the front diff so i can change the sump gaskit. How easy is it to remove the diff? and has anyone got photos of exactly what needs to be undone and what doesnt need to be touched?

Help would be appppppreciated!! :)
 
Hey mate, I did exactly this at Easter this year and it's a massive PITA to do, but a great learning exercise. If you haven't got it already, go and be the d22 PDF manual that you can download through a link here on the forum and surf through that for a bit, there's instructions in there to assist in the sump removal and replacement - namely the correct order and torque settings for the bolts.

Stick the front end up on chassis stands - VERY IMPORTANT. Never work under a car suspended only by a jack, and sine you're having to remove a cross member, it's better to be safe than sorry, plus, you will want every bit of extra room under there you can get.

Also borrow/beg/steal a trolley jack, it will make the job of removed and re-installation of the 50-ish Kg front diff assembly alot easier.

Your best bet is to do a forum search for the Lokka DIY write up that forum member 180%JOE did - he goes into great detail about how to safely remove the front diff.

And a pro-tip for removing the engine sump - remove the steering drag-link as well, the sump will just drop into your hands and you won't have to spend 2 hours trying to weave it out. Because at the front of the block is the drain or something, it makes it very difficult to get the sump out with the draglink where it is, I ended up needing to unbolt the idler arm and tying it as far out of me way as possible.

Also, chances are that the sump is currently being held on with some liquid gasket type product - it will prove VERY difficult to remove. I found that a Stanley blade works well for sliding in-between the sump and block to get it started, then ingot a small paint scraper in and worked it around the entire sump. Then you'll have to get a small screw driver in and lever it up as you work the blade around.This task alone took me over an hour.

To remove the old gasket off the sump, I used a wire brush and some good old fashioned elbow grease. Again this took a long while to do. That liquid gasket is TOUGH!

I'd definitely allow a full day to do this job properly, and make sure you have a mate to help.

Good luck!
 
Yes, Engine pistons.. as the head is off and they are starting to have little cracks in them!! so may as well.. i had a good lock under there today and there is no room to do anything!

I have everything unbolted and ready to drop.. but how do the cvs seperate from the diff assembly? is it just the 6 bolts (in a tri-patten) holding them or is there a spline of some sort joining them?

Thanx
 
So what i gather from this write up, that if im going to drop the front diff out of my D22 2008 2.5 i should replace it with a R200 series diff from a pathfinder?? i`m pulling it out to throw in a Lokka and replace the CV`s i have as well. What would the best ratio to run in the front being i have standard rear ratio`s in the rear and its a 2.5ltr engine??
Or would throwing in a Lokka negate the need for the R200??

Currently searching for answers but any information would help

Cheers Steve
 
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R50 will need a mount welded on as its different mounting, but essentially the same diff.
 
Hey guys, I think I did my front diff today at Kenilworth,

My Nav is a 2004 ZD30 how do I find out the ratio of the front diff?

is it as easy as Josh says to remove to check to see if I have done the diff?


easy as to swap. just put the car on stands on the chassis, unbolt the cvs and tailshaft and then unbolt the xmember and lower the diff down. Then unbolt the diff from the xmember. you can then change the 3rd member(crownwheel and pinion).

ive read a PDF that says you need to lift the engine up? is this the case? or is it a matter of what josh says? just chassis stand it undo the CV's, tail shafts and un bolt the cross member and lower it?
 
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Yes its that easy, just make sure the weight of the diff is supported by a jack when you lower it, they weigh a ton
 
new product

New product !! in testing we found out that the billet shafts also looked after the cv shafts and diff internals . 40+% stronger than oem shafts ,so before you upgrade to a r200 diff at $350 plus postage say goodbye to breaking input shafts for details contact me at [email protected]
11069856_10152783837868182_7536176618790123050_n.jpg
 
Bugger, you're two months late! I just replaced mine and would have definitely gone with one of these.
 
New product !! in testing we found out that the billet shafts also looked after the cv shafts and diff internals . 40+% stronger than oem shafts ,so before you upgrade to a r200 diff at $350 plus postage say goodbye to breaking input shafts for details contact me at [email protected]
11069856_10152783837868182_7536176618790123050_n.jpg

Can you let us know how you managed to make them 40% stronger ?
 

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