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Zorba

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Hi all, 1st time Navara owner looking to learn more from other members, I used to have a 4x4 720 four door ute many years ago.

I recently picked up a 2005 D22 4 door 4x4 with the VG33 V6 engine with 230000kms on the clock, I'm considering an engine swap with an LS1 at some time in the future.

At the moment im trying to sort out a problem with no sound from the radio, I tracked it down to either the speakers are not connected to the loom somewhere between where the wires from the speakers enter the cabin from the door to the loom or the speakers are dead.

Looking forward to reading the forums.

Cheers.

:rock:
 
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Welcome to the forum!


If the D22 stereo connections are anything like the D40, the plug for the stereo is non-standard BUT you can buy adapters to connect the manufacturer's plug to ISO plugs (which is what I've done). The ISO plugs use a standard set of pins and a standard set of colours for the wires for the speakers, so you could easily stick a multimeter across the two wires for, say, the front left speaker (white, and white-with-black-stripe) and see if there's any resistance indicating the presence of the speaker.


I don't know if that's going to help, I'm not as familiar with the D22 as I am with the D40. Driven a D22 a couple of times, yes, but never pulled one to bits.
 
Welcome to the forum!


If the D22 stereo connections are anything like the D40, the plug for the stereo is non-standard BUT you can buy adapters to connect the manufacturer's plug to ISO plugs (which is what I've done). The ISO plugs use a standard set of pins and a standard set of colours for the wires for the speakers, so you could easily stick a multimeter across the two wires for, say, the front left speaker (white, and white-with-black-stripe) and see if there's any resistance indicating the presence of the speaker.


I don't know if that's going to help, I'm not as familiar with the D22 as I am with the D40. Driven a D22 a couple of times, yes, but never pulled one to bits.
Thanks for the welcome Tony, I know about the adaptors for ISO, I found one on ebay that is much cheaper than at SC or AB https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ISO-Wir...298948?hash=item2f2fcb0c04:g:jVcAAOSwBG9cxthj

My D22 only has the one plug that would fit into the larger white plug in the link, the smaller one apparently is for the rear speakers, my Nissan radio has provision for the 2 plugs but as there are no speakers behind the grills in the back doors the smaller white plug isn't part of the loom, so as I'll have to run wires when I fit speakers in the rear doors direct to the radio it's not worth me getting the adaptors.

I put a Kenwood unit in today and had it working with a speaker I had lying around, I'm looking at getting a 7" screen 2 DIN android unit in in the near future, I've seen some reasonably price ones that have BT so your phone becomes hands free, no need for a separate hands free unit and you can load apps like google maps or other navigation apps and use the internet with your phone as a mobile hotspot.

I'll be running the speaker wires tomorrow so hopefully I have music again while driving.

Cheers.

:rock:
 
Judging from the pics, the smaller plug is most definitely responsible for rear L+R speakers.


Be careful with the Android unit you buy. I had one that did everything, but it was manufactured with cheap components and died, the seller didn't want to know about it. We replaced it with a Pumpkin and while this allows hands-free, it does NOT support A2DP so you can't stream music from your phone to the stereo even though the head unit says it is set up for streaming audio.
 
Judging from the pics, the smaller plug is most definitely responsible for rear L+R speakers.


Be careful with the Android unit you buy. I had one that did everything, but it was manufactured with cheap components and died, the seller didn't want to know about it. We replaced it with a Pumpkin and while this allows hands-free, it does NOT support A2DP so you can't stream music from your phone to the stereo even though the head unit says it is set up for streaming audio.

Thanks for the tip on the Android units Tony, I'll do more research before I decide on which one to get.

I finally have sound in the Navara, it wasn't only the Nissan speakers that were dead, for some reason the wiring in the loom was also dead to the speakers, the continuous power and accessories power worked fine, I couldn't be bothered trying to find that wiring fault so I just ran new speaker wires to 2 speakers I had laying around until I buy 4 new Kenwood speakers to go with the 500W Kenwood amp I purchased for $22 on Grays online auctions last night. :redcool:

:top:
 
I replaced my horn with a pair of Hella Super Tone horns today, they are louder and sound better than the stock horn, wiring them up was simple, I had to make a loom up for the horns from + to + and - to - and then to earth on each of the horns and then connected the original horn power lead to the + on one of the horns.

:top:
 
Had a check engine light come on for the first time since i have owned it a week ago when I put it in for a roadworthy, I've had the ute for about 4 months, it came up with Knock sensor and Crank Angle sensor codes, the codes were cleared and no problem until 2 days ago.

Just before I got home the ute spluttered a little then died, I was able to restart and get home the 100 metres or so I had to go then the ute died again just as I got to my driveway, I had enough momentum to roll past my house and then roll back up the driveway where it still sits now, It cranks over fine and has petrol to the fuel rails and has spark, I checked for water in the fuel and there is none, I cleaned the MAF sensor as best I could without any cleaner and it looks reasonably clean.

Next thing I'm going to check is if the injectors are pulsing, but I think they are OK as I can smell a slight odour of petrol while cranking, after that I will be doing a compression test as I know that the rings aren't the best as i am using a fair bit of oil with frequent top ups.

When cranking over no codes show up so I assume the Crank Angle sensor and Knock sensor are fine.

Does anyone have any suggestions of what to check for, fuses all look fine, it is the VG33e V6 model.

Murphy's law here at the moment, Sold our Ford G6 last week, the day after the D22 decided to shit itself, and the BA we got to temporarily replace the G6 somehow totally drained it's brand new battery over night and with the key lock plastic part that attaches to the unlock button rod being broken we were locked out of it as the remotes won't work with a dead flat battery.

I found that if you attach wires to a spare battery and place neg wire to the body and the pos wire to the pos wire to the starter motor, that gives enough power to the system for the remotes to work and operate the door lock solenoids.
I assume that it would work with any car with remotes that you can't use a key to unlock for whatever reason.

:pissedoff:
 
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Petrol engines need the spark delivered on time (ignition timing). There should be a mark on the crank pulley that will coincide with the spark on #1 cylinder. You could test that. Smelling petrol in the engine bay isn't the best, but if you can smell unburnt fuel in the exhaust it's probably delivering fuel to the right place. A timing light will tell you if it's sparking at the right time.

Other than that it's air. Remove the air filter and crank it over, see if you can hear any suction in the air box. If it starts, something may be caught in the air pipe? If the air pipe is ok, block the EGR - if the EGR valve is stuck open, the exhaust will fill the intake manifold with exhaust gas causing the car to fire and stall straight away.
 

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