ECU remap

I'm tossing up whether or not i should get my 06 STX 2.5 auto remapped or not.
while the engine is untouched and, touch wood, trouble free, it has 225k on the clock. So, i'm wondering if the engine will cope with the stress of more power and torque, as i guess, assuming it stays trouble free, 350/400k will be about it's life span?

I'm expecting to get a little more than that out of mine. I've changed turbochargers (now using a Forefront unit) but everything else is stock. I'm actually happy with the power that I've got even when towing the 2.5T caravan.

I guess there are three paths you could take.

1) Accept what you have and get the life that you were destined to get out of the engine. This is also the cheapest path but won't make the Toymotors shrink faster in your rear view mirror.

2) Get a chip. It's not going to be a perfect solution, especially if you opt for a No Limits chip or similar that only fakes the CR pressure return signal. Get something like a UniChip and you've got more configurability and more care for the engine. It's also plug and play - you could remove it and on-sell it if you sell or write off your car.

3) Remap the ECU. Definitely the best in terms of performance but you'd have to question how much more performance you'd get for the $ compared to the performance gain of a similarly priced (or cheaper) chip. Is an extra 2kW worth $400? The other problem is that if the car has to go back to Nissan (let's say there's a recall based on the rusting chassis issue) and the techs decide to reflash your ECU ... program's gone. You also can't on-sell the programming when your ute is sold or written off.

Just my thoughts!

On a longevity note, asking the engine for more power MUST have some detrimental effect on the engine life, if all of that power is used. If you're having it programmed to reduce the fuel consumption while providing the same power, then the same stresses will exist in the engine at all times and the longevity shouldn't be any different.

your right on all those points Tony, probably should leave it alone at this stage in it's life. I had a 3"exhaust and snorkel fitted a while ago, and ended with worse economy, by about 50k's a tank, and if anything, it feels like the power has even dropped off a bit. So, i am wanting a bit back in both departments i guess.
On a side note, sometimes the car feels flat under acceleration, not to the point where it just won't go, just doesn't have any zip, even though it still reaches 21ish PSI boost!

If it's boosting normally and feeling less punchy then it must be fuel that's the issue. Filter, SCV, injectors ... my car was boosting well, but lagging badly at times until the SCV was replaced.

Old.Tony said:

If it's boosting normally and feeling less punchy then it must be fuel that's the issue. Filter, SCV, injectors ... my car was boosting well, but lagging badly at times until the SCV was replaced.

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Are they easy enough to replace, also, I think i've read before that you have to get the right length also?

It's just a pair of hex bolts (I think it's a 5mm allen key needed, might be 4mm) and one electrical connection. Your left hand needs to be in good enough condition to squeeze the catch on the back of the electrical connector to remove it, then manipulate the bolts out. My left hand isn't, so my car went to a mechanic and a $140 job became a fair bit more expensive.

Yes you do need to watch the length. It would be prudent to wash yours first, and while you've got it out, measure it. I'm not sure if the length is a year thing, or a Thai/Spanish thing.

cheers Tony, always a wealth of knowledge!