Go Back   The Navara Forum > D40 > D40 Engine

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes

  #21  
Old 05-06-2019, 11:50 PM
bods's Avatar
bods bods is offline
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Orelia, WA
Posts: 4,899
Default

I reckon it would have to be auto otherwise the manual shifter would be in the back seat hahaha. At least you can make linkages work with an auto shifter. Good luck with your problem, hopefully it is just the chip...
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links

  #22  
Old 14-06-2019, 05:25 AM
Been a while Been a while is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: qld
Posts: 339
My Mood:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bods View Post
I reckon it would have to be auto otherwise the manual shifter would be in the back seat hahaha. At least you can make linkages work with an auto shifter. Good luck with your problem, hopefully it is just the chip...
Auto is far easier ;) A nav would be fun but a pootrol would be an easier conversion eh

Ok, progress report... I've been totally useless for the last week, parked her up and couldn't even look at her .. yup, had the sad's on good...
With the bugger of a time I had in N.S.W Narrandera with a motel owner and the local police there -I've been a wreck.. Ruined a short 2 for 1 break and I couldn't even look at the ute since I've been back..

Anyways that's another story..Sorry about that dump, but better out than in as they say..

With the Ute, I finally HAD to move it so I did a little work on her, pulled chip aaand no good..
Same problem just at lower temps, so yes in a way it did work but it just a mask, there is something else going on here ..

Another thing I noticed today was the oil pressure is way up ?? The gauge responds as fast as the revs ??? It once sat on 8 to 10 psi on idle but now higher and on the road it would sit 40 to 60psi but now 60psi plus and it goes from 60 to 100psi like the taco lol
Got me tossed..

I'll try cleaning what sensors she has and pull the plumbing from the turbo, I.cooler etc and check for leaks -but I'm thinking injector maybe..
I'll wack it on ecutalk first....
No smoke that I can see in the rear cam, no soot on rear tow bar, camper etc after 1000ks, idles like it's new, no eng light..
Still, with out chip it dies in 5th, fine down low from take off and through to 4, but get to 85 95 and she struggles to get to 110 and up go the temps.. It still gains more heat than it used to coming up through the gears.. was thinking crack in piston ??
I guess injectors out for clean and test, maybe compression test first before I pull injectors and see if I can get a cam down the injector or glowplug port.. don't know - a little stumped at the moment...
Reply With Quote

  #23  
Old 14-06-2019, 12:00 PM
Old.Tony's Avatar
Old.Tony Old.Tony is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mid Coast Region, NSW, Australia
Posts: 15,149
My Mood:
Garage
Default

If it's absolutely fine in gears 1-4, you would have to suspect some electrical control influenced by 5th gear and that's almost always going to be the NPS. I can't see in the thread where you might have disconnected that to test - so it might be worth trying.


I am always suspicious when two unrelated sensors start behaving in tandem. The thing in common is the instrument cluster and the engine earth (which also means battery negative). Since everything else seems to be working reasonably, I'd say battery positive is ok, but give the negative terminal a clean.


Then pop the NPS off the gearbox and see what happens.


And to address an earlier point you raised - your injectors have done 90,000km and might be too old - mine have just past 325,000km and they've never been removed from the engine. I've run the occasional Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment through her, and once did a diesel purge. But they're the originals, still going nicely, so I think yours at 90,000km are not that old at all!
__________________

Check out the FAQs by clicking here!



"Money can't buy happiness, but it does make misery a lot easier to deal with."
Reply With Quote

  #24  
Old 15-06-2019, 01:17 AM
Been a while Been a while is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: qld
Posts: 339
My Mood:
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old.Tony View Post
If it's absolutely fine in gears 1-4, you would have to suspect some electrical control influenced by 5th gear and that's almost always going to be the NPS. I can't see in the thread where you might have disconnected that to test - so it might be worth trying.


I am always suspicious when two unrelated sensors start behaving in tandem. The thing in common is the instrument cluster and the engine earth (which also means battery negative). Since everything else seems to be working reasonably, I'd say battery positive is ok, but give the negative terminal a clean.I


Then pop the NPS off the gearbox and see what happens.


And to address an earlier point you raised - your injectors have done 90,000km and might be too old - mine have just past 325,000km and they've never been removed from the engine. I've run the occasional Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment through her, and once did a diesel purge. But they're the originals, still going nicely, so I think yours at 90,000km are not that old at all!
Ahhh ok nps, I know where that is- replaced once before in a fault finding mission... I'll disconnect and try.. thanks

But your thinking was where I was going- I was thinking ECU ??? But it would throw a engine light i thought...?

I'm sure I'm not imagining the oil pressure gauge...

Terminals are spotless but I'll check ... did them when I did the alternator...

Well, thanks for your input ..have a good weekend...

Oh, when I say fine 1st to 4th it pulls a little to well even with out the chip.. You'd think it's running fine but the temps are still sitting higher and wont come down when you float the throttle.. usually when she comes up to speed the temps will drop when you sit it on 3000rps or so and coasting along.. it will come down but not like it once did...

I'll try the nps now on a trip to town... brb ;)

Last edited by Been a while; 15-06-2019 at 01:26 AM.
Reply With Quote

  #25  
Old 15-06-2019, 02:42 AM
KevinE KevinE is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 340
Default

For what it's worth, my thoughts are;

1. Best outcome - once you removed the chip, did you do an ECU re-set? The chip may have caused an issue that's easily rectified with a re-boot!

2. Worst case scenario - I'd compression test the engine. I hate to say it, but it does sound like a worn out motor. Entirely possible if you've been running that chip & using the extra horses it provides.

Good luck with it. I hope that it's a simple/cheap fix.
Reply With Quote

  #26  
Old 15-06-2019, 11:41 AM
Old.Tony's Avatar
Old.Tony Old.Tony is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mid Coast Region, NSW, Australia
Posts: 15,149
My Mood:
Garage
Default

Let's look at another influence on temperatures - the radiator fan. Mine has been a PITA, but I have a fix now.


Note: I do know you're measuring EGT and not coolant temperature, and higher EGTs are usually the result of a fuel/air mix issue, but there's no harm in making sure this is right and the info might help someone else.



I have TWO viscous hubs. One is solid - as in I removed the oil and screwed the plates together so there's no fluid drive. It just goes. Makes a lot of noise (as if the hub is locked, not like there's a problem), but as a replacement that I can whack in on the side of the road to get me home it's perfect.


The other is my rebuildable one. I went to Toyota service department and for $18 I bought a little bottle of silicone oil. I suspect I could buy this shit elsewhere, but this is how I did it. I crack open the centre of the viscous hub, pour another bottle in and close it up again. Then I test it, it's usually fine.


Testing it is easy, obviously easier with two people.


Get the car to a nice hot temperature (10 minutes of normal driving will do, usually) and pull over where it's safe.


ONE person: pop the bonnet, turn off the engine then race around and open the bonnet and try to turn the radiator fan over. It should be very stiff. If it's easy to turn, your viscous hub is stuffed and not drawing air through like expected.


TWO people: pop the bonnet, leave the engine running, have the other person exit the vehicle and stand on your side, YOU exit the vehicle and open the bonnet and watch the fan. Have the other person turn the engine off. If the fan stops straight away, with the engine, the viscous hub is fine.


Now it's probably not the cooling system, but if you're generating high EGTs, the cooling system is something you want working well so it's worth checking.


Does your turbo have a wastegate, and is it working?
__________________

Check out the FAQs by clicking here!



"Money can't buy happiness, but it does make misery a lot easier to deal with."
Reply With Quote

  #27  
Old 16-06-2019, 07:30 AM
KevinE KevinE is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 340
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old.Tony View Post
Let's look at another influence on temperatures - the radiator fan. Mine has been a PITA, but I have a fix now.


Note: I do know you're measuring EGT and not coolant temperature, and higher EGTs are usually the result of a fuel/air mix issue, but there's no harm in making sure this is right and the info might help someone else.



I have TWO viscous hubs. One is solid - as in I removed the oil and screwed the plates together so there's no fluid drive. It just goes. Makes a lot of noise (as if the hub is locked, not like there's a problem), but as a replacement that I can whack in on the side of the road to get me home it's perfect.


The other is my rebuildable one. I went to Toyota service department and for $18 I bought a little bottle of silicone oil. I suspect I could buy this shit elsewhere, but this is how I did it. I crack open the centre of the viscous hub, pour another bottle in and close it up again. Then I test it, it's usually fine.


Testing it is easy, obviously easier with two people.


Get the car to a nice hot temperature (10 minutes of normal driving will do, usually) and pull over where it's safe.


ONE person: pop the bonnet, turn off the engine then race around and open the bonnet and try to turn the radiator fan over. It should be very stiff. If it's easy to turn, your viscous hub is stuffed and not drawing air through like expected.


TWO people: pop the bonnet, leave the engine running, have the other person exit the vehicle and stand on your side, YOU exit the vehicle and open the bonnet and watch the fan. Have the other person turn the engine off. If the fan stops straight away, with the engine, the viscous hub is fine.


Now it's probably not the cooling system, but if you're generating high EGTs, the cooling system is something you want working well so it's worth checking.


Does your turbo have a wastegate, and is it working?
It's worth checking the viscous hub for sure!

My wife's car had a problem on our outback trip last year, but her's is a petrol. It was doing some very weird things! I could drive it all day on the flat, even in 40+C ambient temps & the temp gauge showed all good. But if I stopped the car & turned the engine off (toilet stops etc), the temp gauge would be fine when I re-started the car, but would go up significantly after about 200-300 metres of driving (???) Then, I'd sit on the side of the road idling for a few minutes & the temp came back down.

It drove me nuts! No excessive coolant overflow, no bubbles in the coolant, no colour in the coolant that shouldn't be there! Nice pink AT fluid on the dip stick.

It started doing it between Windorah & Betoota, so it was a tad concerning lol. It wasn't causing any other issues (no power loss). So, we just continued on our way.

Idling it after every time we stopped worked, but got old very quickly! We were on holiday & so stopping to look at stuff along the way. It was even doing it while we weren't towing when we were in Alice Springs on our way home, which was awkward!

Got home & it never did it again!

I've had it to various mechanics & a radiator place & had the trans pan dropped & flushed, just in case. But god knows what it was!

We'd towed a caravan up through the centre with it before that trip, including pulling the van up out of Redbank gorge, so I don't believe that towing is an issue. We towed the camper with my D22 when we went to the Flinders Ranges in March, so I haven't had a chance to see if it'll happen to my wife's car again while towing.

We're off on another trip in Spring; Googs Track & the Old Eyre Hwy, so I'm wondering which car to take. I'm also trying to get my wife to agree to doing the Old Andado Track after Googs, but not having much luck as yet :(
Reply With Quote

  #28  
Old 16-06-2019, 09:08 AM
Old.Tony's Avatar
Old.Tony Old.Tony is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mid Coast Region, NSW, Australia
Posts: 15,149
My Mood:
Garage
Default

We've actually worked out that we can tow - even up hills - with the viscous hub busted, but we just have to do it slower. On some of the steeper grades (example - Thunderbolts Way) we have to open the car windows, turn the air conditioning off, turn the temp to full heat and the fan to 4 - it dramatically drops the coolant temp, but it gets real nasty inside when it's 40+ outside!
__________________

Check out the FAQs by clicking here!



"Money can't buy happiness, but it does make misery a lot easier to deal with."
Reply With Quote

  #29  
Old 16-06-2019, 10:02 AM
KevinE KevinE is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 340
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old.Tony View Post
We've actually worked out that we can tow - even up hills - with the viscous hub busted, but we just have to do it slower. On some of the steeper grades (example - Thunderbolts Way) we have to open the car windows, turn the air conditioning off, turn the temp to full heat and the fan to 4 - it dramatically drops the coolant temp, but it gets real nasty inside when it's 40+ outside!
That is starting to sound a bit too familiar Tony lol! Maybe the viscous hub on my wife's car is busted. I can't get my head around why it hasn't played up since though. Especially considering the hot summer that we just had.
Reply With Quote

  #30  
Old 16-06-2019, 11:06 AM
bods's Avatar
bods bods is offline
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Orelia, WA
Posts: 4,899
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinE View Post
It's worth checking the viscous hub for sure!

My wife's car had a problem on our outback trip last year, but her's is a petrol. It was doing some very weird things! I could drive it all day on the flat, even in 40+C ambient temps & the temp gauge showed all good. But if I stopped the car & turned the engine off (toilet stops etc), the temp gauge would be fine when I re-started the car, but would go up significantly after about 200-300 metres of driving (???) Then, I'd sit on the side of the road idling for a few minutes & the temp came back down.

It drove me nuts! No excessive coolant overflow, no bubbles in the coolant, no colour in the coolant that shouldn't be there! Nice pink AT fluid on the dip stick.

It started doing it between Windorah & Betoota, so it was a tad concerning lol. It wasn't causing any other issues (no power loss). So, we just continued on our way.

Idling it after every time we stopped worked, but got old very quickly! We were on holiday & so stopping to look at stuff along the way. It was even doing it while we weren't towing when we were in Alice Springs on our way home, which was awkward!

Got home & it never did it again!

I've had it to various mechanics & a radiator place & had the trans pan dropped & flushed, just in case. But god knows what it was!

We'd towed a caravan up through the centre with it before that trip, including pulling the van up out of Redbank gorge, so I don't believe that towing is an issue. We towed the camper with my D22 when we went to the Flinders Ranges in March, so I haven't had a chance to see if it'll happen to my wife's car again while towing.

We're off on another trip in Spring; Googs Track & the Old Eyre Hwy, so I'm wondering which car to take. I'm also trying to get my wife to agree to doing the Old Andado Track after Googs, but not having much luck as yet :(
Not sure what car it is, but if it supports one of the many OBD2 scantools out there, I'd be trying that first. Even with the torque app on your phone, just to check coolant temperature. It could have been the gauge playing silly buggers, but the torque app will show you exactly what the ecu is seeing from the sensors on the motor. Mine has never moved out of the normal range on my D22, unfortunately "normal" is about from 40c to over 94c (that's the hottest I've seen the temp on torque) without the gauge moving.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old.Tony View Post
Let's look at another influence on temperatures - the radiator fan. Mine has been a PITA, but I have a fix now.


Note: I do know you're measuring EGT and not coolant temperature, and higher EGTs are usually the result of a fuel/air mix issue, but there's no harm in making sure this is right and the info might help someone else.



I have TWO viscous hubs. One is solid - as in I removed the oil and screwed the plates together so there's no fluid drive. It just goes. Makes a lot of noise (as if the hub is locked, not like there's a problem), but as a replacement that I can whack in on the side of the road to get me home it's perfect.


The other is my rebuildable one. I went to Toyota service department and for $18 I bought a little bottle of silicone oil. I suspect I could buy this shit elsewhere, but this is how I did it. I crack open the centre of the viscous hub, pour another bottle in and close it up again. Then I test it, it's usually fine.


Testing it is easy, obviously easier with two people.


Get the car to a nice hot temperature (10 minutes of normal driving will do, usually) and pull over where it's safe.


ONE person: pop the bonnet, turn off the engine then race around and open the bonnet and try to turn the radiator fan over. It should be very stiff. If it's easy to turn, your viscous hub is stuffed and not drawing air through like expected.


TWO people: pop the bonnet, leave the engine running, have the other person exit the vehicle and stand on your side, YOU exit the vehicle and open the bonnet and watch the fan. Have the other person turn the engine off. If the fan stops straight away, with the engine, the viscous hub is fine.


Now it's probably not the cooling system, but if you're generating high EGTs, the cooling system is something you want working well so it's worth checking.


Does your turbo have a wastegate, and is it working?
That's another good suggestion. It is a wastegated turbo and I asked about boost before and all that seems normal. Without excessive smoke it is hard to believe an injector is leaking, but the zd30 motor without OBD2 support is a pain to check engine data without a consult tool or scangauge... I vaguely recall some people having a bit of success with Nissan data scan but not sure if you can even get an adaptor to suit them anymore...


Here's another left field suggestion. Your thermocouple (temp probe for the egt gauge) hasn't been moved at all has it? It needs to be in the middle 2/3rds of the exhaust stream to get an accurate reading.

Also earth's, are they all in good condition? I had an ea falcon years ago that the oil pressure gauge would read max all the time and it turned out that the wire had come off the sending unit. Plugged it back in and all good. I'd be double checking your motor to body and battery to body earth connections just to make sure nothing has come loose anywhere. It also wouldn't hurt to add an extra earth lead between the body and the motor somewhere, especially onto one of the earth points that the battery uses either on the body or motor.

Sent from my moto g(6) plus using Tapatalk
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:30 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
| Home | Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search | New Posts |