Turbo vacuum activator querie

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ericcs

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after starting the engine, i notice that the turbo actuator pulls the arm up to the stopper and stays there even at idle, is this normal. i thought it is supposed to fluctuate depending on load?

also, roughly how many metres of 3mm vacuum hose is required to replace all the hoses?
 
I'm pretty sure I bought 3m of it and had a bit left over, cost me about $20.

If yours is being pulled all the way up, it means your vac hoses are working, but the question becomes is the vac control solenoid working? I had to have mine replaced.
 
so, theoretically, if the vanes are open all the time, it won't spool up as quick?
I used the torque app. to check the boost levels, and only once got it to 20psi. mostly got to
16/18, even towing a 16' boat!
 
That sounds about right. The turbo vacuum boost solenoid from Nissan was an updated part for my 07 and upped the boost by about 2 psi to around 21 psi max
Have a look at silicone vacuum hoses at autobarn etc they are much nicer to install and dont oxidise like the stock ones
 
Autobarn is where I got my replacement hose from too. In the end was an easy job (with a cold motor). Didn't fix my problem though - my control solenoid was stuffed.
 
Good idea
I replaced all vac lines and vac boost solenoid at the same time
The vac lines had turned to dust and the original solenoid plastic had hardened so the spigot snapped off inside the rubber tubing when i tried to remove it
Found it interesting that the boost solenoid was slightly different and lifted the boost a little

It still amazes me how many different places all the parts for D40s come from
The new boost solenoid was from germany, new SC valve from holland, water pump from japan, air filter france, fuel filter austria, oil filter germany the list goes on
 
Im also having the drop of power suddenly as if tthe turbo cuts out... release and press accelerator and turbo kicks I again. I have cleaned the solenoid with contact cleaner and semms to work a bit better but no 100%.
A couple of months ago, I bought an after market one(from China).. and it didnt work.Liaised with seller, they assued me it should... so they sent me a replacement and still doesnt seem to work.. are these solenoids set at different pressures ??
Im still needing to replace my Nissan Original with something that works to see if that will fix my Turbo cutting out unexpectedly while im trying to overtake another car...
 
I got mine from my nearest nissan dealership. Was about $140 from memory
I would never use cheap non genuine sensors these days
They all come from china and are dodgy as
Learnt my lesson as a teenager with cheap air flow meters
Horrid things that should be banned those imported parts
That said europe has some good aftermarket part makers, lots from italy, but none seem to make it here anymore thanks to the good ol PR of C
 
I did away with my Boost Control Solenoid and got a TILIX VALVE instead.

No more elctronic drop of boost, smooth curve and MUCH NICER drive.

It also means no more $300 BCS to replace :)
 
I did away with my Boost Control Solenoid and got a TILIX VALVE instead.

No more elctronic drop of boost, smooth curve and MUCH NICER drive.

It also means no more $300 BCS to replace :)

this is an interesting piece of kit, not to mention the write ups on diesel tuning.
did you adjust yours to a specific boost level?
 
I was boosting to 21PSI with the standard Solenoid in place, so I adjusted the TILIX valve to give me exactly the same. Took next to no time to get it set. about 30 minutes to install all up (the longest being the vacuum line into the turbo pipe).

Mind you the tinkerer / devil in me wants 31PSI - but I've controlled my urges for now :)
 
My BCS has failed again. I'm really not happy about it. Will be talking to Tillix tomorrow, I've emailed them already but they are probably having too much fun on weekends to look at emails!

I'm going to order the full kit. Not sure if the base valve will be enough for me.

What happened? My car brought us back from South Aus and the next day the turbo died. Fine, buy a new one, replace it. Everything seems ok? We got into Newcastle (over an hour from here) and notice the battery is sitting at 12.4V (instead of the usual 14.1). Oops. Yes, the alternator light is coming on very, very faintly. Trump alternators to the rescue.

Had the alternator replaced (I couldn't undo the bottom bolt) and today the turbocharger is way, way underperforming. Almost as if the turbo was getting a little movement from the exhaust gas, but those vanes weren't opening ... so I replaced the 3mm hose (bought 3m of it, have about 300mm left over). All joints tight, no movement on the actuator arm. Grab the hose to the top of the actuator, give it a light suck and the actuator arm rises. Ok, the BCS is stuffed. We were still 50km from home when I replaced those hoses and tested it. Even had the DPF light come on - first time - kicked it down a gear, held the revs steady and kept the engine mostly at super-light load - DPF light went out after about 15 mins (too much soot from not enough air).

So I thought about it and decided to attach the vac pump directly to the actuator. Plenty of boost available - too much, actually. It does ease off if you lift the throttle, but if you pour on the gas the boost level goes nuts.

A gentle drive and it came home with no incident. Time to get that Tillix valve!
 

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