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  #11  
Old 06-10-2019, 06:50 AM
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the battery and handbrake light could be the clutched pulley on the alternator. I have replace mine twice, when these lights showed up, the alternator itself is still running fine!
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2019, 01:02 AM
allaroundoz allaroundoz is offline
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Slowly but surely I believe the alternator is at it's end. Providing less than 12V and 5 minutes later more than 15V. Battery and handbrake symbol are on more often than ever. Mechanic said it could overnight or in a couple of weeks. Anyway, will not replace it before it's too late hopefully I won't regret it ;-)

Brake lights are still not fixed, mechanic could find anything. Will try to investigate it with your suspected switches. Replacing the fuse with a stronger one might end up even worse.

Can the VDC be caused by a slow puncture in my left front tire?
Needs some air every 2-3 days so maybe that's confusing the VDC system?
Bearings are fine, but just spend 500 dollars on new upright bushes, axle shoulder and lower bushes for the suspension spring on the left front wheel.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2019, 03:49 AM
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with regards to the alternator, as i mentioned earlier, it could just be the clutched pulley which spins freely in one direction only. when you decelerate or turn off the car, the alternator runs on to keep a smooth power delivery. when this clutched pulley starts to play up, it's because it starts to spin in both directions like a bearing, so the pulley will still turn while the alternator slows to a stop.
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2019, 01:21 AM
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UPDATE: While driving along Bruce Hwy all over sudden "4" and the symbol for 2WD/4WD disappeared from the bottom left display on my dashboard. So I pulled over. Stopped the car and tried to restart. Zero. Nothing. Not even a jump pack did its job.
2.5 hours later we got towed to a small country village (a servo, a mechanical workshop and a caravan park) and the day after the found a blown fuse (#19 ECU control). The alternator provides way above 15V and keeps blowing the fuse. Ordered a new alternator hoping that this will fix the issue. Oh by the way, for some reasons we could hardly drive a car up the workshop ramp, didn't provide any torque. In reverse it did ;-( Any idea on that?

The mechanic replaced the 10A stop-light-fuse with a 15A. He reckons that's still save and we have stop-lights again.

Last edited by allaroundoz; 12-10-2019 at 01:31 AM.
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  #15  
Old 14-10-2019, 08:00 AM
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UPDATE: Mechanics have replaced the alternator and the car is still not running.
Car's Computer is telling the alternator to provide 15V and as soon as we put in a gear (D - automatic) fuses blow. This countryside mechanics are trying their best but running out of options. Need to be towed back to Mackay to see a NISSAN Dealer and an auto electrician.

Anyone up with an idea how to tackle that very strange behavior of our cars electrical system?
TIA!!!
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  #16  
Old 15-10-2019, 02:05 AM
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Sounds like a challenging car (to say the least).

The ECU should not ever instruct the alternator to deliver more than 14.7V. If it's doing stupid stuff (and along with all of the other things that are being 'weird') I'd suspect it's not the alternator or the ECU, but an electrical connection.

Perhaps the earth point for the ECU? It should be on a bolt on the right hand side guard in the engine bay. Some Navaras didn't have the paint removed from where this bolt was installed and as a result the electrical connection was intermittent. This meant that some time (and usually when being checked) the car operated fine, it worked fine when taking it for a test drive and it also worked fine while in close proximity to civilisation. But as soon as you were out of reach of a decent mechanic or mobile phone service it would start playing up and give all sorts of random errors.

So, I would:

* Remove BOTH battery leads and clean the battery terminals AND the plugs. While you have these off the battery, disassemble them (just undo bolts, not crimped or soldered joints) and clean them completely. Pay particular attention to the black plastic positive terminal arrangement which has several connections.

* Check the ECU earth

* Check the engine negative. The battery negative lead runs from the battery to this point. Remove it, clean it and where it connects to the engine and reinstall.

* Open each of the electrical distribution points in the engine bay and one at a time, remove then reinsert everything. Just take it out, quick look, back in - it should take any oxide off that's causing a problem with the electrical connection. There are a lot of them! One is behind the battery, another is at the back of the engine bay just beside the ABS unit and another behind this and lower down.

The other possibility here is that there's been some damage to one of the wiring looms. This could cause errant voltages to be sent to the wrong place, and is VERY hard to track down. It could send raw 12V through to a 5V sensor line, it could send 12V+ to a ground line, it could force (say) a component (like brake lights) to draw power through a sensor line changing the values for that sensor only while the brakes are pressed - all sorts of crazy things. All modern cars suffer from this sort of thing. A common failure is in the tow cable - but usually only affects the brake/indicator/reverse lights when one of those are used.

The issue of low power when in drive but not in reverse is also odd. The automatic gearbox doesn't report to the ECU about the gears except for:

- signal to the instrument cluster for which gear has been selected by the driver
- signal to the body control module (BCM) to activate the reverse lights

But if there's damage to the wiring loom(s) then it could cause all sorts of confusion.

The wiring loom is also inside the car behind the dash where it connects to the BCM.

There's a lot there, but much of it is "take apart, clean, put together" and costs nothing.
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  #17  
Old 15-10-2019, 06:48 AM
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do they even have a smart alternator?
if so can you take a pic of the sensor on the battery earth.

brake lights is actually important as its an input into the ecu.
i would check the towing setup. thats usually where they strike trouble.
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  #18  
Old 15-10-2019, 06:51 AM
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If you can get the car to Mackay, just up the road, see Jade Strack at JLS Auto Electrical. (07) 4952 1280.
113 Archibald street
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  #19  
Old 16-10-2019, 04:03 AM
allaroundoz allaroundoz is offline
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UPDATE: Mechanics gave up and we got towed to Mackay. Tow operator made us a good deal and I was very annoying on the phone when I rang insurance so they are paying for that tow as well.

Third-Party-Warranty only pays for a aftermarket-second-hand-alternator, not a new one. But we already installed a new one so more money out of my pockets.
Anyway, car is at NISSAN Mackay because they have the scan tools to look in ECU.
THANK YOU for all your tips and recommendations!
Unfortunately my first language isn't english and I am not a mechanic so I need to go through your answers many times. ;-) But as soon as I have access to the car or to a mechanic that works on it I'll try to look at all the "sweets spots" you have mentioned.

Cheers mates!
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  #20  
Old Yesterday, 07:06 AM
allaroundoz allaroundoz is offline
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UPDATE: They have traced 2 faulty wires linking the ECU fuse box (hope that's the correct term) and the transmission. Will redo the wiring and hope that sorts out the problem. Keep my fingers crossed!
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