Clutches.... specifically QD32

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Boriskov

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So I'm just gauging this up as to time and effort etc. for when the time comes.

From what I've read, people say it's a c*nt of a job, bla bla, need jacks and tools etc. But from my experience with the QD32 most of it is chinese whispers and it's easier than the "forum gods" make out to be.

In their defence, I'm a mech. fitter, and can do anything... but home garage limits apply here.

The tools I have are a basic set, and a pretty decent bench press. Enough to fit a RR P38 transfer case by hand anyway.

From what I've seen after diving underneath, I can split the gearbox into 3. Remove transfer case, remove gearbox, remove bell housing... do clutch... assemble in reverse order. Negating the need for engine hoists through the cab etc etc.

Has anyone done or heard of it being done this way? I'll either be looking for "yes it works" or doing a write up when the time comes as per my "in situ engine rebuild" thread.

cheers
 
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So I'm just gauging this up as to time and effort etc. for when the time comes.

From what I've read, people say it's a c*nt of a job, bla bla, need jacks and tools etc.

Having completed this in D22, I concur with that sentiment lol. Though I don't really know how it applies to your particular model. For most people who do a bit of mechanical work, they will have enough tools.

In their defence, I'm a mech. fitter, and can do anything... but home garage limits apply here.

Done plenty of these sort of jobs, clutches, motor rebuilds and so on on all different sorts. Something very different about this one though. It wasn't easy (that in itself is quite an understatement).

Though I did the rear main as well. Couldn't see any point not doing it with the flywheel off. Which meant dropping the sump (to do it properly). Which also meant dropping the 2 front crossmembers and diff...and steering...to get the sump off...lol.

From what I've seen after diving underneath, I can split the gearbox into 3. Remove transfer case, remove gearbox, remove bell housing... do clutch... assemble in reverse order. Negating the need for engine hoists through the cab etc etc.

Has anyone done or heard of it being done this way? I'll either be looking for "yes it works" or doing a write up when the time comes as per my "in situ engine rebuild" thread.

cheers

Don't know anyone who has done it this way but yes these gearboxes are very heavy so I can appreciate your logic. I thought I had plenty of experience with such things. To give you an idea, I got the gearbox loose but it would not slide back (had 2 jacks with planck between them taking the weight at the front and another jack holding the rear) and ended up with a 3/4 ton chain block between gearbox support member and rear crossmember and inching it out that way. It was the only way I could get it to move. Lining it up to get it back in was no less fun.

I certainly don't wish to dissuade you, but wouldn't that be a lot of extra work to go to, to end up with several slightly less heavy and cumbersome parts that also need reassembling and will need supporting in position during the process?

If I was to need this doing again, I think I would take it to a workshop lol. Apart from that, I really do think lifting the motor out is the way to go. Far less huffing and puffing, far better access to everything.
 
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The logic behind it is that I think the transfer case is the heaviest part (~90-100kg). It's the easiest part to refit as it has dowels and spline for alignment, and plenty of clearance. The gearbox itself isn't so heavy, at around 50-70kg max including the bellhousing, and after taking a look underneath, I can disconnect the shifter etc from beneath without even needing to take the centre console apart. Gearbox is a shade heavier than the front diff which is easy enough to chuck in by hand without any jacks.

Thanks for the insight. I'm trying to avoid the death struggle I keep reading about online, so I'll do a thread for the masses once the time comes.

Also, regarding your rear main seal, this is the reason why you should have got a QD32... No need for sump removal, as it's not connected to the bellhousing ;)
 

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