light bars and relays

Hey guys so my prob is i have light force 240 lights on bullbar with 30 amp relay. Been on for few yrs working perfect, on weekend i added 240w led bar to roof and tapped into light force relay so all works off one switch, instead of using 30 amp relay the led bar cam with.

Prob is now i am blowing fuses for power to relay.
Do i need to run separate relay for led bar or can i take out original 30 amp.relay that's in there and just run a 60amp relay so it will run both led bar and light force off the one???

Any help would be appreciated like always fellas

Best to run new supply from battery to a second relay which is switched on with the other relay. Old Tony had some good sketches up on another post somewhere.

DO the math.

240w light Bar / 13v = 18.5 amps

2x 100w Spotlights = 200w / 13v = 15.4 amps

Your drawing 33Amps through a 30Amp relay.

Add resistance and you may be 35Amps.

A 40Amp relay should do the job but make sure your wiring is up to it i.e At least 6mm from battery to relay (pin 30), before dividing out to the lamps.

Sweet as that sounds like a plan. Bigger relay and wiring.. Then two separate relays

I'd just tap another relay off the OUTPUT of the first. Easy as pie - follow this:

Connect a wire from pin 87 of the old relay to pin 85 of the new relay. That's the link done, now for the new stuff:

Pin 86 of the new relay to ground
Pin 30 of the new relay via 30A fuse direct to battery
Pin 87 of the new relay to the light bar.

Easy peasy.

Bad Juju said:

DO the math. 240w light Bar / 13v = 18.5 amps 2x 100w Spotlights = 200w / 13v = 15.4 amps Your drawing 33Amps through a 30Amp relay. Add resistance and you may be 35Amps. A 40Amp relay should do the job but make sure your wiring is up to it i.e At least 6mm from battery to relay (pin 30), before dividing out to the lamps.

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Good mathematical sense


And completely agree would be the way I would do to.

I think Brett seems to know what he is talking about on this .

Ill do that cheers tony, done. Your a champ always helping us out ��

Just remember that it's illegal to run a roof mounted light bar of the high beam. It normally has the operated from a separate stand alone on/off switch. That is if your worried about it anyway. Check out the D22 wiring diagram thread for a drawing if you need one.
Cheers.

Navmania said:

Just remember that it's illegal to run a roof mounted light bar of the high beam. It normally has the operated from a separate stand alone on/off switch. That is if your worried about it anyway. Check out the D22 wiring diagram thread for a drawing if you need one.
Cheers.

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I have mine on a separate switch, but can only be turned on when the high beam is on. In saying that, I have spotties and a light bar on the bullbar, but wanted them all switched separately so I could run them independently or all together, rather than having them all on together whenever the high beams are on...

Those light bars draw a lot of power too. Leds on their own draw very little, but stick 100 of them in a light bar and they draw a lot lol. I would also calculate amp draw at 12v, just to give a bit of safety margin. I have a 52 inch one I cut down to about 46 inches. It draws around 23 amps at 12v. Not bad for the amount of light it puts out, but as mentioned, you need to make sure your wiring is up to scratch.

I also have my light wired to a switch that is linked to my high beam so when switch is on and high beams are one then they all work and if high beams are on and switch is off then spotties are off �� yes i always make sure wiring is adequate to what im powering.

And stuff the law i say i want a 42inch bar on my roof racks so that's what i did. �� Its only for bush use and to use if i have road rage

The law has changed a bit now anyway. There's nothing really to say in the adr's that you can't have them in the roof. There's also nothing to say how they have to be switched, apart from they can only be on when the main beam (high beam) is on. It doesn't really matter where the light is mounted, if you don't dip them, then oncoming traffic will get blinded regardless lol

benchrisfennell said:

its only for bush use and to use if i have road rage

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aaahahahaha !!

One other question guys? Ill use this thread....
On my winch in wanting to hook up a switch so it has power on and off instead of power always to it with the standard wiring and solenoid it came with. So can i hook it up to a relay and a switch in the cab?

If so what size relay should i use? Its a runva 11xp.
I have a ignition wire running from my cab to engine bay for accessories to run my ctek. If i run another relay of that as trigger will i cause any drama. Its tapped into my cigarette lighter fuse in the fuse box....

Also what is the safest way to make the huge power cable.on the winch fit a little male terminal on the relay???

I hope.you guys understand what in asking cheers.


All your help has always been appreciated and i like to try and learn and do things myself with th advice from others ������

You won't get a relay big enough to be able to isolate the winch through it. You'd probably melt the relay the first time you tried to use the winch. I think tigerz11 has an inline isolator that fits on the positive feed, you could fit that under the bonnet. The other option is an isolator switch, maybe from a truck so it has a high amp rating, on the positive feed. That would also be better under the bonnet unless you fit it to the bullbar somewhere and remove the "key" that you use to lock and unlock it.

On mine, I have used a basic isolator switch from jaycar and isolated the earth from the solenoid box, however this doesn't isolate the main feed from the battery...

You really need something with contacts rated around 500a constant draw, as that's roughly what it will pull at max load.

Yea sweet cheers mate. I ripped the wiring out for my winch because i want to run the solenoid under the bonnet so the ugly box is off the bullbar!

Is having the solenoid closer to the winch better or anywhere is fine?
I have the wirless remote with mine but also want a in out switch inside the cab so i don't have to use the ugly hand held remote that every winch has. And we cant always rely on the wirless remote incase the battery goes flat in it.

It won't really matter where you have the solenoid box. If you're worried about the remote, you can get a switch to mount in the cab to control the in and out. You just wire it up either to a plug and have it in the socket on the box permanently or you can wire it directly inside the box to the solenoids.. you still hook the battery wires up as normal though

bods said:

It won't really matter where you have the solenoid box. If you're worried about the remote, you can get a switch to mount in the cab to control the in and out. You just wire it up either to a plug and have it in the socket on the box permanently or you can wire it directly inside the box to the solenoids.. you still hook the battery wires up as normal though

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Putting the solenoid up the top left hand side engine bay near the abs stuff ain't to far away from the winch...

benchrisfennell said:

Putting the solenoid up the top left hand side engine bay near the abs stuff ain't to far away from the winch...

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Nah. Has been done before

bods said:

Nah. Has been done before

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Yea sweet mate ��