D40 engine replacement help

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crae

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Hi all,

Not having the best of runs at present. My 2007 d40 Spanish built motor had to be replaced after oil pump failure. I found a low kms 2013 Spanish built motor that I got put in. Started up ok but running terrible. Swapped the injectors over etc. still an issue. Ecu is giving a cam / crankshaft sensor issue. Swapped the sensors over, still no joy. Car is off to Nissan now on tow truck! Does anyone know if the later engines are compatible ? Is there a process that needs to be followed to reset after engine swap? Seems strange the issue would be cam shaft related? Any help as patients & budget is wearing thin!
 
The engines have different heads. I'd imagine that even if the injectors were similar, injection timing won't be. It's possible that the newer injectors have even more refined spray patterns. In the older car, the injectors don't just open a single time, I think the max is 5 opens per power stroke. The newer injectors might open/close faster allowing a higher number of openings with a lower fuel pressure to spread the burn more smoothly or better still, bring it on gradually and punch hard as the crank angle allows a greater degree of horizontal force applied. The old ECU may not be able to do that, and with a lower rail pressure across the board (or smaller injector opening at the same or greater pressure = even better atomisation of a reduced amount of fuel) you'll experience a lack of power across the rev range.

What I'm not certain about is the injector firing pattern in the newer car.

The newer cars also had EGT sensors, and this might be relied upon by the ECU - without that information, the ECU may enforce a 'limp mode' so if you're contemplating a 2013 ECU, be aware that there are other changes required (eg electronic turbocharger actuator instead of a solenoid-controlled vacuum-operated actuator).
 
Ok thanks for reply. Seems I am pioneering here. No one has done this before? Ecu upgrade might be the only option. Maybe an aftermarket ecu might be best? See what Nissan says & go from there..
 
You have gone from a 128kw donk to a 140kw updated donk but Ive heard of a wrecker doing the same job you did...and they ended up gutting the wreck for the full loom ...ecu...dash and some other parts to get it all working.Are you still running the old vac turbo?...i dont see how you cannot run all your inlet and exhaust manifolds...including all sensors....egr...turbo....after all its just a diesel motor...id almost skip the injectors unless they cannot be happily registered to the old ecu...but i was under the impression that its sometimes not even nessasary as the code refers to the +/- that the actual injector is out by.
 
Do I need the full loom? I was thinking just ecu as the old loom plugs in fine into new engine. No missing plugs.
 
Believe I have found the issue with engine swap. The wreckers have sold me a 2013 MNT motor being thai? My original motor was a vsk Spanish made. Wrecker is saying they are the same & should work. Is this the problem?
 
You have a 07 spanish and you have just put in a 2013 thai motor right....on your old motor did you have a cam sensor? And what are the inlet and exhaust manifolds like....similar or totally diffrent...
Post up a pic or the engine you have fitted also.
 
Been a while since I posted. I ended up getting the new replacement 2013 motor running in the 2007. Long story with issues above but it doesn't help when u have incompetent mechanics fitting your motor incorrectl! Timing was off that's why the new motor didn't run.

So I have driven the car with the newer motor for over 1500kms. Seems to be blowing a lot of diesel smoke when lugging and reversing. Seems to also have a bit of a flat spot also. I'm thinking the turbo may not be engaging when it is supposed to be?? I can hesr the turbo work but it may not be working 100%.

Could this be related to the newer motor being electronically controlled turbo? Interested to hear thoughts on this and options to get it running 100%.
 
That will be the issue. There's (naturally) a way around it, but this will require some competence in the part of the person doing the work.

Remove the electronic actuator and refit the vacuum solenoid and vacuum-operated actuator. The activity is the same - the arm moves up and down causing vanes to move inside the turbo. While it sounds simple, the vacuum actuator may not mount on the turbo the same way.

Another alternative is to look at the turbo on the 2007-early 2010 models and see if it fits the manifold on the 2013. The turbo on the 2006 model sits lower ... wait a sec, so does the 2013, doesn't it? I've a picture of the 2009 (which is the same as the 2007-early 2010 models) engine bay in my garage. Does your turbo now sit that high, or does it sit lower?
 
That will be the issue. There's (naturally) a way around it, but this will require some competence in the part of the person doing the work.

Remove the electronic actuator and refit the vacuum solenoid and vacuum-operated actuator. The activity is the same - the arm moves up and down causing vanes to move inside the turbo. While it sounds simple, the vacuum actuator may not mount on the turbo the same way.

Another alternative is to look at the turbo on the 2007-early 2010 models and see if it fits the manifold on the 2013. The turbo on the 2006 model sits lower ... wait a sec, so does the 2013, doesn't it? I've a picture of the 2009 (which is the same as the 2007-early 2010 models) engine bay in my garage. Does your turbo now sit that high, or does it sit lower?

Sounds tricky to explain to someone who doesn't know the d40. Been stuffed around by mechanics so much. Any recommendations for Brissie? I don't have the old block any more so I would need to purchase the vacuum operated parts from somewhere.
 
The vac pump is purely a pump and I'm sure it could be replaced by an electric unit. Or check the engine - most brake boosters are vac operated and the 2007 D40 certainly is, so how did they connect the brake booster? Tap into that.

I don't know of anyone competent in the Brisbane area. In northern NSW I'd give Jamie a call at Forefront Industries. He knows his stuff. Further north - Caboolture - look up Lindsay at Caboolture Exhaust. Hopefully a couple of the locals can pop in with a suggestion.
 

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