Excess Black Smoke, EGR Blocked, MAF Cleaned

Ah, I have now found that it does need to be programmed with a registered key. That sucks

camo.b said:

If the turbo actuator is the only problem im sure you can bypass it with a dawes valve setup.

Click to expand...

I'd give that a look at too if no good with the oscilloscope... There's plenty of how to's on the patrol forum as it is a very popular mod on them, I wonder if many people have done it to d40s yet...?

I was doing a bit of reading on the chipit/chiptuning material and came across that.got me thinking...they had it setup on the triton i think to get around the boost dropoffs and poor spoolup.daws valve is mabee $70.just need some vac hose to accompany it and you have full manual control of the vnt turbo

The patrol boys were using a Dawes and needle valve to control boost perfectly on the older zd30s that had the grenading problems, to stop them over boosting...

Blackhander92 said:

Ah, I have now found that it does need to be programmed with a registered key. That sucks

Click to expand...

The key is paired with the BCM, not the ECU - although there's nothing stopping them from storing a record of the BCM's information in the ECU.

What DOES need to be registered in the ECU are the fuel injectors. It may run fairly poorly otherwise - but your boost should work well. I'd try to borrow someone's ECU if the electrical connections on yours look okay.

Just looking at page BL-82 in the workshop manual, it does say that the key needs to be registered into the ECM.

"NVIS (Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System-NATS) has the following immobilizer functions:

Since only NATS ignition keys, whose ID No. have been registered into the ECM and BCM, allow the
engine to run, operation of a stolen vehicle without a NATS registered key is prevented by NATS.
That is to say, NATS will immobilize the engine if someone tries to start it without the registered key of
NATS."


I have found the registration procedure for a new ECU. Well, I think it is that. Taken from page BL-83:

Performing following procedure can automatically perform re-communication of ECM and BCM or Intelligent
Key unit, but only when the ECM has been replaced with a new one (*1).
*1: New one means a virgin ECM which has never been energized on-board.
(In this step, initialization procedure by CONSULT-II is not necessary)
NOTE:
When registering new Key IDs or replacing the ECM other than brand new, refer to CONSULT-II
Operation Manual NATS.
If multiple keys are attached to the key holder, separate them before work.
Distinguish keys with unregistered key ID from those with registered ID.

1. Install ECM.
2. Using a registered key (*2), turn ignition switch to “ON”.
*2: To perform this step, use the key (except for card plate key) that has been used before performing
ECM replacement.
3. Maintain ignition switch in “ON” position for at least 5 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch to “OFF”.
5. Start engine.
If engine can be started, procedure is completed.
If engine cannot be started, refer to CONSULT-II Operation Manual NATS and initialize control unit



With that procedure there, is it just a case of installing the new ECU and then using the key I've always had with my car, do the whole ignition on ignition off thing, then it should be registered? Or, do I use the key that was used on the new ECU? Can someone clarify?

Also, anyone reckon a manual ECM would work in an Auto? Wouldnt be driving anywhere, its just to see if the solenoid works with a functioning ECM.


If none of this works by the way, has anyone installed a dawes and needle valve to the D40? And if so, where the results what you wanted?

Going by what you posted before regarding keys being registered to the ecu, according to what you posted, you need to take it to Nissan and get them registered with a consult-ii device, unless the ecu is brand new (in box - never used). So if you are going to plug one in from another vehicle it won't work without taking it to Nissan.....

The manual ECM fit into an auto should be good if you're not trying to drive it anywhere, but you couldn't do it the other way around since the engine won't start without the auto's TCM reporting the gearbox in P or N.

Not sure on the key issue. People have replaced the ECMs in their car without asking questions relating to the keys in the past, so it must be possible without too much problem.

If you cannot drive it how can you test the boost/turbo function? When i fitted my first forefront turbo the actuator arm didnt flutter.second one did tho...

Was just planning on looking at the actuator arm movement at idle as that would indicate the solenoid was getting a good signal I guess.

^ the logic works for me. It's worth seeing what that does. Can you borrow an ECM?

Might be able to yeah, just have to see if my mate is willing! I am just a tad hesitant in case the immobiliser trips. Which I really dont want.

http://www.dtcsearch.com/P0045/?from=Torque

Got this today. Circuit A, is that the route from the ECM to the Turbo Boost Control Solenoid? Only got this after doing continuity checks yesterday.

Should it be open or closed? Im assuming closed to keep the ecm happy and the turbo working correctly

Id imagine closed yeah haha

Hullo Ashley, my D22 2.5 litre blows black smoke like a mosquito repellant!!! Towed a Jayco Eagle to Uluru then to Adelaide....the white van was very dark colored by the time we got to Adelaide. A friend suggested rerouting exhaust....the exhaust shop suggested a 3" exhaust for $990. The bigger exhaust has changed economy from 17lt/100 to 14lt/100. The smoke is still there but no where near as bad. The tail pipe is poking out the LH side also. Hope this helps your quest. Cliff

The 2.5 seems problematic when it comes to blowing smoke. I just think it's the set up. Like Puffing Billy till the boost arrives but then after that all seems good. In fact once the turbo is pumping. You can then floor it and rev it out with little or no noticeable smoke. Always seems that initial progression of the boost coming on is where it bellows.

Doesn't overly worry me but perhaps hard and short turbo piping could help. EGR block does help a little.

Getting real tired now of this fault finding haha. Couldn't manage to get a hold of an ECU nor an oscilloscope. I jumped the wire going from the ECU to the Solenoid using a scotch clamp and still no luck.

So I think I'm going to cut my losses and just attempt to install the manual boost controller as suggested on the previous page. So my next question is..... has anyone done this to their navara yet?

Cheers!

Still following this one..have a look here http://www.chiptuning.com.au/fix-for-vntvgt-vacuum-actuated-turbos/