Stocky
Member
G'day guys (and gals),
I've bought a set of Bushranger Nighthawk halogen spotlights with bundled HID conversion kit. The set also included a Bushranger wiring loom. I'm putting it into a 2013 D40 Navara.
My father and I have both installed spotlights before and reckoned we'd give these a go over this long weekend. Truth be told, I was hoping to have them in by tonight for a bit of a fox shoot. Sadly, things haven't gone to plan and despite a trouble-free install, we've spent the entire day trying to troubleshoot the damned things.... After going over and over everything trying to work out a solution, I'm desperate for a bit of friendly advice! Below is the condensed story:
One of the first things I did before the install was check the forum for info on the high beam pickup for the trigger. I followed advice to tap into the blue wire coming out of the driver's side high beam light.
I took power for the lights directly from the battery + terminal. There were two earths, which I have fitted and checked as being well-grounded. The conversion of the lights from halogen to HID was a pretty simple plug-and-play with a few minor modifications to the spotlight housing for correct fit. Connection and installation of the HID ballast was also fairly straightforward.
The supplied switch for on/off control within the cabin was one of those "mouse" clicker types which you stick up near the steering wheel. I have a switch (the ones ARB use) which I installed down next to the row of OEM switches (VDC Off, Lock/Unlock, etc) in the centre console, so I simply cut off the supplied mouse switch and wired in the other one. No big deal.
Once everything was all double-checked and all the wiring tidied up and out of the way, I decided to give the new spotties a go. Well...........that's when the problems started!!!
When I flicked the high beams on and then turned on the switch for the spotties, there was a little "pop" under the dash and no dice with the spotties. OK, I thought, it sounds like a fuse. The supplied wiring loom has two fuses: one 2amp fuse on the switching/trigger circuit mounted in the cabin, and one 15amp on the main circuit mounted in the engine bay. When I pulled out the little 2amp one, sure enough: it was blown.
After some discussion, further checks and double checks, we figured that the problem was maybe that this "blue wire" referred to in the forum is actually the power wire (higher amp) and not a high-beam logic/trigger/switching wire (lower amp) and that the little 2amp fuse was blowing due to the higher current. We couldn't find any information on here or any other forums which indicated where we could find the actual low-amp switching/trigger wire for the high beams, so we replaced the 2amp fuse with a 7.5amp fuse to handle the higher current. This then also blew, and still no dice with the spotties.
We have been going back and forth with ideas all afternoon, to no avail. I have absolutely no idea what the problem could be, and I figured you guys would be the best to ask first-up! I have been online and had a look at a few other wiring looks available on the market (Narva etc) and they all seem only to have a 15 or 30 amp fuse on the main circuit and do not include a low-amp fuse such as a 2amp on the trigger/switching circuit. If other Navara D40 owners were tapping into the blue high-beam wire and using eg a 30amp fused Narva wiring loom, they might not be having our problem. However, changing the 2amp fuse for a 10amp stopped the fuse from blowing, BUT the spotlights still didn't work AND then the driver's side high beam light blew!!!
At my wits' end...........! Any ideas from auto sparkies/experienced members out there?
Cheers,
Stocky.
I've bought a set of Bushranger Nighthawk halogen spotlights with bundled HID conversion kit. The set also included a Bushranger wiring loom. I'm putting it into a 2013 D40 Navara.
My father and I have both installed spotlights before and reckoned we'd give these a go over this long weekend. Truth be told, I was hoping to have them in by tonight for a bit of a fox shoot. Sadly, things haven't gone to plan and despite a trouble-free install, we've spent the entire day trying to troubleshoot the damned things.... After going over and over everything trying to work out a solution, I'm desperate for a bit of friendly advice! Below is the condensed story:
One of the first things I did before the install was check the forum for info on the high beam pickup for the trigger. I followed advice to tap into the blue wire coming out of the driver's side high beam light.
I took power for the lights directly from the battery + terminal. There were two earths, which I have fitted and checked as being well-grounded. The conversion of the lights from halogen to HID was a pretty simple plug-and-play with a few minor modifications to the spotlight housing for correct fit. Connection and installation of the HID ballast was also fairly straightforward.
The supplied switch for on/off control within the cabin was one of those "mouse" clicker types which you stick up near the steering wheel. I have a switch (the ones ARB use) which I installed down next to the row of OEM switches (VDC Off, Lock/Unlock, etc) in the centre console, so I simply cut off the supplied mouse switch and wired in the other one. No big deal.
Once everything was all double-checked and all the wiring tidied up and out of the way, I decided to give the new spotties a go. Well...........that's when the problems started!!!
When I flicked the high beams on and then turned on the switch for the spotties, there was a little "pop" under the dash and no dice with the spotties. OK, I thought, it sounds like a fuse. The supplied wiring loom has two fuses: one 2amp fuse on the switching/trigger circuit mounted in the cabin, and one 15amp on the main circuit mounted in the engine bay. When I pulled out the little 2amp one, sure enough: it was blown.
After some discussion, further checks and double checks, we figured that the problem was maybe that this "blue wire" referred to in the forum is actually the power wire (higher amp) and not a high-beam logic/trigger/switching wire (lower amp) and that the little 2amp fuse was blowing due to the higher current. We couldn't find any information on here or any other forums which indicated where we could find the actual low-amp switching/trigger wire for the high beams, so we replaced the 2amp fuse with a 7.5amp fuse to handle the higher current. This then also blew, and still no dice with the spotties.
We have been going back and forth with ideas all afternoon, to no avail. I have absolutely no idea what the problem could be, and I figured you guys would be the best to ask first-up! I have been online and had a look at a few other wiring looks available on the market (Narva etc) and they all seem only to have a 15 or 30 amp fuse on the main circuit and do not include a low-amp fuse such as a 2amp on the trigger/switching circuit. If other Navara D40 owners were tapping into the blue high-beam wire and using eg a 30amp fused Narva wiring loom, they might not be having our problem. However, changing the 2amp fuse for a 10amp stopped the fuse from blowing, BUT the spotlights still didn't work AND then the driver's side high beam light blew!!!
At my wits' end...........! Any ideas from auto sparkies/experienced members out there?
Cheers,
Stocky.