How to replace a D22 CV

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180%JOE

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Hi all,
Today I replaced my left CV after breaking it while up at Cape York. So I thought that there needed to be a good write up to help anyone who wanted a step by step guide.

Time required:
Up to three hours if it’s your first time.

Tools and Equipment:
New CV drive shaft
Jack stands
Jack
Socket set
Spanner set
Allen key set
Air compressor and rattle gun (Not essential but helps)
Torque wrench
Circlip pliers
Phillips and flat screwdrivers
Needle nose pliers
Hammer
WD40
Multi purpose Grease

Step 1:
Place the handbrake on and in leave in gear (also chock one of the rear wheels for safety), Jack up the vehicle under the chassis close to the wheel. Once the wheel is off the ground by an inch, place a jack stand under the chassis and lower the jack so the stand takes all the weight. Next using a 19mm socket or wheel brace, undo the six wheel nuts. Take off the tyre and place under the chassis near the jack stand.
2014-09-08095317.jpg


Step 2:
Now get under the Navara and locate the six bolts holding the CV to the diff flange. Using a 12mm socket undo all of these bolts. I found that using a large flat screwdriver I could wedge it between two of the bolt heads and undo the other bolts without the joint rotating. The CV should come loose from there now.
2014-09-08102341.jpg


Step 3:
Move back to the front of the hub and it is now time to remove the Manual hub cover. Make sure it is in free wheel and using a 6mm Allen key remove the six Allen head bolts. If they are too tight use a breaker bar or extension on the key. Also I used that large flat screwdriver and wedged it in the brake calliper hole to hold the disc and hub from rotating.
2014-09-08102359.jpg
 
Once removed take the cover off and set aside. Now take the circlip pliers and remove the circlip in the picture. Once off, the metal collar with teeth slides out. Now there is nothing holding the CV in anymore.
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Step 4:
Using a 17mm socket remove the lower shock absorber bolt so the shock is now free from the Lower Control Arm. Now take the jack and place under the LCA “Lower Control Arm”, Jack it up to just take the weight of the LCA. From here you will need to take out the cotter pin with pliers which is located under the Upper Ball arm bolt which can be seen in the Pic.

2014-09-08111729.jpg


Now using a 22mm spanner undo the nut on the Upper Ball mount. Once the nut is off you will need to break the ball mount with a hammer. Tap the side of the hub assembly underneath the UCA. It should release with a bit of force, be careful of the break line as it can be stretched when the hub releases.
2014-09-08112959.jpg
 
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Step 5:
Move the hub to a good position to remove the CV. Tap the end of the CV spindle with a hammer and block of wood to release the CV. Now you can manoeuvre and take out the CV shaft completely.

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Step 6:
Take the new CV and check it has the spacer/washer on the end with the spindle. This needs to be the right way around so it sits flush on the CV. I found out the hard way and had to take everything out again as it would not fit and I couldn’t get the circlip on. Grease up the shaft and slide the CV back in the hub. It should fit in perfectly. Next grease and place the metal collar back on and put the circlip back into the groove. Refit the Manual Hub cover with the Allen bolts and check to see if it moves freely to lock and back.

Step 7:
Now push up the hub so that the UCA ball joint realigns back into the hole. Now fit the nut and tighten to reseat the ball joint. Once torqued up tight put the cotter pin back in. Fit the shock back to the LCA and bolt it back on.

Step 8:
Now fit the CV back to the diff flange and replace the six bolts and tighten them to correct specs as in the service manual. Wind the jack off the LCA and replace to the chassis point. Reposition the tyre back on and tighten the wheel nuts in an opposite manner until they are all tight. Take the jack stands out and lower the car back on to the ground.

Step 9:
Tighten the wheel nuts properly and take for a test drive in 4wd. Congrats you have now replaced the CV. Crack open a beer and celebrate.
 
Last edited:
top write up, very easy to follow.

i think its possible to remove the cv with out separating the lower ball joint.
joshy did a thread on it a while back, said he had done quite a few and had it down to about 20 minutes on the side of the track.
 
Thanks guys. Yeah I read joshys way and I thought my way you don't have to get a wheel alignment as the only thing touched is the upper ball joint. If I had practice it would be pretty quick but I couldn't do 20min.
 
damn so do you really have to undo the ball joint? if so that sucks! thought it would be a easy job, got to change both my shafts as i did boots both sides at the cape!

Bryan
 
Another great write up.

Another tip for those using calmini uca is instead of undoing the upper ball joint bolt you can remove the 4x10mm nuts holding the upper ball joint to the arm. Saves having to break the seal with a hammer.

Rusty
 
The seal is super easy to break. Just a couple of hard taps to the side and it pops out.

i have only done ball joints once but i found them easy to separate, not sure what the fuss is.
 
I have used those "turbo gas torch" the one's that you can use for soldering etc on stubborn one's ! Yup they are great for adding a little warmth to nuts and bolts- use it on the bikes and have used it many many times working on the nav.. No shite it works well- pulling the CV's in mine right now and that brings me to the question "how do you separate the CV's in navaras"???? cheers vic
 
Hey,
I’ve recently lost the spacer quoted in Step 6.
Does anyone know were I can get one from can’t find anything online
Cheers
 

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