What could it be?

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mgermasi

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Hi Guys
I today while driving normally like any other day on the freeway I've noticed an increase in the EGTs(200d egrees more than usual), increase in air intake temp (say 10 degrees more than usual), increase in water temp (10 degrees more than usual) and i felt the car was missing a bit of power.
The boost was there but I'm not too sure if it was high enough.
Nissan has recently replace under waaranty EGR valve and suction control valve.

What do you think it could be?

D40 2011 RX auto thai built
Steibauer Chip
Intercooler
DPF

Thanks a lot
 
Ive noticed a large egt drop laitly..this i can only attribute to a oil and filter change and fuel pump relearn....(no change for my chip settings either)
Have you changed anything laitly...is she due for a service?
 
Just an update after taking the car to NIssan:
)- DPF blocked regen needed - most probably DPF blocked due to Steinbauer chip = MUST be removed!
)- Nissan could not remove the chip as it might have something to do with ECU and they do not want to stuff around with it
)- Removed Steinbauer chip in Nissan carpark by myself in 11 minutes
)- Took car for a drive but did not notice any big improvement

TONY if the engine was under load it should produce a lot of boost which I don't see it happening.

I will call the EXPERTS again tomorrow....
not too sure where to take it from here tho.... maybe to SIMS metal recyclers :-(((
 
Is there a boost leak somewhere i.e. split hose or intercooler leaking? Restriction in the intake somewhere? Clogged air filter?
 
Ben that's what I suspect but it seems intermittent

The only time that i saw those egt temp so high it was when I had a broken intercooler pipe but somehow the EXPERTS at bloody Nissan don't get it, so much for qualified special trained labour!

It will be LC200 Toyota soon.....:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
If the EGR was stuck open you would probably get the same symptoms, why did they replace it?
 
Boost appears to be ok
EGR is new they said it was faulty (maybe they remove the EGR restriction plate when they saw it)

Basically it looks like she runs 150C higher than usual and at times EGTs shoot all the way to 600-650C but Nissan keep telling me that the car is all OK
 
If boost is normal but egts are high, it is overfuelling. If you have an apparently blocked dpf, that could be caused by the ecu injecting extra fuel to try and do a regen. Coolant temp will also increase with an egt increase as the turbo is adding heat to the cooling system.

Can you set your trip computer to show l/100km fuel usage? If you can, see if this changes when egts go up. Failing that, a scantool that can monitor injection times or when the ecu is trying to initiate a dpf regen would help while driving, when the egts are climbing for no apparent reason...


Adding to that, I forgot you have a chip. That may be causing issues, whether it is holding injectors open too long or increasing rail pressure too much that excess fuel is being injected into the motor. You obviously won't notice an increase in smoke like vehicles without a dpf fitted would... maybe a dpf delete is a good idea..?
 
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I was writing a similar post this arvo bods....disconnect the chip and do a fuel pump reset..drive the 30kms for the required new pump data and check egts...could well be much better...refitt the chip if all is o.k and recheck egts
 
Thought Nissan fixed it by changing the hose from intercooler to the throttle body but last night had failed again.
I don't know anymore what to tell to this numb nuts at Nissan the cars has been at their garage already 3 time on the same issue.

What component could cause this:
- intermittent fault (every now and then)
- loss of boost (3000 RPM = 6.5PSI)
- loss of power
- High EGTs (200 to 300 degrees more than usual)
- Increase in water temp (about 10-15 degrees more than usual)

Thank you for your help guys
Max
 
High EGTs and increase in water temp are related. Higher combustion temps will cause higher coolant and exhaust temps. Higher combustion temps are caused by poor management of the input (ratios, timing) so we're talking anything from CAS to boost control and related sensors (MAFS, BPS etc).

Given your lack of boost I'm thinking like camo - it's probably your solenoid. Being erratic is usually a sign of a poor electrical connection or a failing component (usually the former but this solenoid has a poor history).

It's a good idea to check the vac hoses. You could discount the solenoid altogether by bypassing it - attach the incoming vac hose to the outgoing vac hose. It means the turbocharger won't spool up as quickly but it will produce full boost at all times (and you'll know 100% that it's your solenoid). Don't do it for too long, just enough to test it.
 

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