how to change D22 CV

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joshy

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Wrote this up a while ago in another thread but it keeps getting lost so maybe its own thread would be better. If anyone needs it in more detail or has another questions just ask and ill add to it.

My fastest time is 20minutes. Let my know if you can beat it.:big_smile:

The manual way is a pita and takes forever. Much easier way is to undo the bolts where it attachs to the diff then undo the hub, take the circlip off. Take the bottom bolt out of the shock. Then undo the two top bolts of the upper control arm. Make sure you mark those outof round washers first tho so you know how it goes back together - will save you from having to get it re aligned. Then pull the arm up and forward and it should come off. have a jack under the lower arm so it doesnt drop and rip the break line. now you just have to tap the cv with a rubber mallet to break they seal and jiggle/manouver the cv out, youll have to turn the hub to the side and have it as low as you can, the brake line is normaly pretty tight at the angle the cv comes out. To put the new one in, repeat the process in reverse... The manual way is to pull the torsion bar out and drop the lower control arm out. Another way is to knock out the balljoint on one of the arms, but i couldnt break the seal and you then might need spare split pins.
 
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I figured you would definetly get sick of doing write up ups on this topic.

Dave.
 
haha. I think only an owner could change it that fast. If it was someone elses there prob wouldnt be as much of a rush. Once you can change one on the side of a track tho your getting there.
 
Hey guys i have a question reguarding my CV`s, mine have started clicking while driving around and figure ill change them, i can do it myself thats not a problem as it seems pretty straight forward, what im wondering is as they are just clicking and not completly stuffed do i need to change the whole shaft or just the outer CV?? this would be a much cheaper option and im sure its notthat hard to separate the CV from the shaft.
 
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It's not that expensive to do a whole cv shaft. And yeah #joshy I'm down to about 25min but have had to do a lot of them on mine good old lokka lol
 
Looks like i better get practice in as i`m installing a Lokka system soon. Where do you get your CV`s from? Currently getting a quote from Nizzbits today.
 
Joshy or anyone else who's done this...
I've sheared the diff flange so my cv is already detached on the diff end, I've removed the hub assembly, removed bottom bolt on shock, and am taking the UCA bolts out but they are under a fair bit of pressure even though I've taken up the weight with the jack under! Am I supposed to wind down my torsion bars first? What have I done wrong here ?
 
If you've got the jack under the lca then you'll be right to take the bolts out. If it's the first time they might be a little stuck and need a tap
 
I made the mistake of buying cheap nasty eBay CVs when I did my lokka I went through 6 CVs them all breaking in the same place but I had brought them so I used them after the last lot I spent the money on a better brand and never had an issue since
 

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