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  #11  
Old 16-09-2014, 11:03 AM
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The battery might initially test fine, but it's when it's running that it's important. Check the voltage while the engine is cranking over - it shouldn't fall below 10V. If it does, there's internal cell damage and may be the cause of a myriad of unexplainable problems.

Another possibility is damage to the CAN system somewhere. Perhaps a trip through salt water (or salty water, or salted ground that's kicked up followed by a rainy day) has left something in the wiring that has either caused corrosion or made a new electrical path. Remember that salt in water is Sodium and Chlorine which ionise in solution to Na+ and Cl- and form an electrolyte (the name for a fluid that conducts electricity).

A close inspection of the IPDM/ER (box behind the battery) would be valuable, as would removing the ECU (driver's side sidewall of the engine bay, pic in my garage showing the location although I suspect you've been there before). Once removed, try cleaning the connecting fingers of both the ECU and the connecting plug with a soft white eraser if they look cleanish, or a light emery paper if they look like there's signs of water/corrosion.

The only other thing I can think of is physical damage. The CAN is just a bunch of wires and they can be crushed, overheated, bent etc. Trying to brutally force stuff through the firewall just above your accelerator is a common thing, but also carries the risk of that brutality finding some effect on the rest of the wiring in there. Needs a good looking-at, and that's where an inspection camera will help if you have access to one.
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same issue
  #12  
Old 14-09-2017, 07:48 AM
cookie_86 cookie_86 is offline
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Default same issue

hi everyone. im having the exact same problems with my stepdads 2010 st-x YD25. has anyone found the solution to these problems?
very desperate as this is his income maker.
thanks
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  #13  
Old 14-09-2017, 11:02 AM
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To start with, check the battery's voltage in the morning before starting, and the charging voltage after starting the engine. First one should be 12.4-12.6V, second one 14.4-14.6V. This will tell you if the battery and alternator are doing the right thing. These have a major impact on the rest of the system.

Then it's probably time to start popping fuses/relays and checking contacts. There are three places in the engine bay.

1) The distribution box behind the battery
2) The distribution box beside the ABS unit (sort of between the ABS unit and the turbocharger)
3) The power management unit behind the box in 2). This last one has clips you need to hold away from the box and then lift the box out of its cradle. It's not easy, mine was stuck (had to change a headlamp fuse). You hold the tab away, lift that corner, repeat for the other 3 tabs too. Don't use excessive force on the tabs. A torch will show you how they work, don't break them.

That's a start and doesn't cost anything. A small wire brush the size of a toothbrush is very handy to give contacts a clean.
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  #14  
Old 14-09-2017, 11:33 AM
cookie_86 cookie_86 is offline
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no worries thanks for that info.
i replaced the front hubs 2 weeks ago and tested the leads today but they're ok.
fuses are all ok as i have checked all boxs. but still wondering about some raleys.
i swapped out my cluster with his but still the same thing
it works fine for about 10km then plays up. so im also chasing earth leads.
bloody headache haha
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  #15  
Old 20-03-2020, 11:26 AM
Regie Regie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navarad40perth View Post
Hi guys,

I have a D40 2008 Navara im having a strange fault please see sequence below..

Intermittently when car has been driven i attempt to start it and..

1. Cooling fan comes on ( as if engine is hot )
2. Headlights and Park lights come on ( switched off on dash )
3. Engine will not turn over
4. Windscreen wipers will not work when this is happening
5. Indicators will work externally but not on the dash..

After about 5 minutes the fan stops and the car will turn over ( but not start )

After about another 5 minutes the car starts as normal

Other issues that are happening are the dash dies whilst driving the tacho and speedo drop to zero then spring back when this happens the ABS and the Park Brake light flash on for a mili second

please help us find this issue :)
I have same issues seeing this is a few years old has anyone found what the issue is?
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  #16  
Old 20-03-2020, 11:28 AM
Regie Regie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookie_86 View Post
hi everyone. im having the exact same problems with my stepdads 2010 st-x YD25. has anyone found the solution to these problems?
very desperate as this is his income maker.
thanks
Did you find what was causong the issue? I have similar issues
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  #17  
Old 20-03-2020, 12:07 PM
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I would be looking at earths more than anything else. Make sure the ecu and bcm are earthed well. Bad earth's are very hard to diagnose, but easy to fix. Disconnect them and give the panel they attach to a good clean with a wire brush or dremel or something to get the panel back to bare metal, then coat it with protectant to stop corrosion.
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  #18  
Old 20-03-2020, 01:16 PM
Regie Regie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bods View Post
I would be looking at earths more than anything else. Make sure the ecu and bcm are earthed well. Bad earth's are very hard to diagnose, but easy to fix. Disconnect them and give the panel they attach to a good clean with a wire brush or dremel or something to get the panel back to bare metal, then coat it with protectant to stop corrosion.
Yep done all you mentioned and even my auto electrician couldn't resolve the problem. Thats why I have asked the original poster how they fixed their issues.
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  #19  
Old 20-03-2020, 07:55 PM
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Ah right, fair enough. Not sure you'll get a reply but good luck.
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  #20  
Old 21-03-2020, 12:31 AM
Regie Regie is offline
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Fingers crossed
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