Turbo vacuum activator querie

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There's supposed to be a needle valve to allow the rate of spool to be adjusted (from what I gather).

Let me tell you now, you CAN drive the D40 with the vac line plumbed straight to the actuator, but holy smoke it brings on a LOT of boost way, way too early. Because I didn't want to pop any hoses or burst the intercooler, I decided to try and manually maintain < 20psi (not easy when there are hills around!). Turbo sings really quickly when engine rpm is > 2000. Dangerously fast. If you ever have the misopportunity of losing the BCS, be prepared for a long, gentle drive.

Expecting the parcel to arrive very soon. Response from Tillix so far has been fantastic!
 
Tony, I do recommend the vacuum needle valve - it allows you to hold the actuator up so boost comes on early, then the boost pressure forces the Tillix valve open and as such causes the actuator to be pushed down - so you control boost.

I found mine most responsive with the needle valve screwed in until the actuator arm had *just* reached it's top of travel. Then it's simply a case of using your TORQUE app to set maximum boost on your TILLIX valve. I found 5 turns in was enough to produce 21PSI and hold it - especially when traversing large hills.

Winding the Needle valve out will bring boost on later - so you get *massive* lag. Just wind it a 1/8 turn at a time until you're happy with the boost and progressive nature. Use the Tillix Valve to control HOW MUCH boost you want to throw at it
 
Mine's arrived. Thanks for the tips :) it's going in tomorrow. 1x 8mm hole and a small amount of MIG welding and I'll be right.

I can't weld as good as Scotty Bobcat. Absolutely amazing guy to watch, he welded slider brackets on my chassis while I watch and damn, he's smooth and fast. If I can do a job one tenth as good as Scotty, it'll be fine.
 
I'm not a fan of the Tilix system, there are better items on the market that do the same job more reliably. If you want to get rid of the vacuum system why don't you replace the actuator on your turbo with a positive pressure actuator. They are far more reliable and you don't need any of this bleed valve crap. They come pre set to a certain boost point e.g. 16 or 20 psi. If you want to run more boost you can then set up a bleed valve to achieve this.

I use the exact same setup on may race truck. My actuator is set to 20psi standard and we adjust it from there
 
have a look at the actuators diesel smart sell. Very easy to install and setup. Most other reputable tuning companies will also have a similar product. If you are after the best response and boost control an electronic actuator will hands down beat any pneumatic actuator but controlling them is the difficult part
 
I guess it'll be for my next car :) the Tillix valve is in and working. Haven't done any serious driving with it yet, just around the block and determined that it was boosting a little high still. Will be tidying up the hosing and mounting the valves in a sensible spot for access/adjustment ease today. Need it working for early next month - I'll be working at the Bathurst 1000 and need to tow the van up there!
 

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