Go Back   The Navara Forum > Tech Talk > General Tech Talk

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes

Electric Brake Controller Installation
  #1  
Old 09-10-2009, 11:51 AM
Matt - VNET Pro's Avatar
Matt - VNET Pro Matt - VNET Pro is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Geelong, VIC
Posts: 529
My Mood:
Garage
Default Electric Brake Controller Installation

G'Day all,

Just purchased a Tekonsha P3 Prodigy Electric Brake Controller off eBay, yet to arrive but am looking at installing it myself. Has anyone installed one of these before or an Electric Brake Controller of any sort to there D22 STR Navara at all?

Also have a Jayco Eagle Camper on order, recommened to wire up a "Live Wire" or "Hot Wire" to the rear trailer plug on the ute also? Same thing has anyone wired something like this up before, from what I can gather it is just a heavy gage wire straight from my 2nd battery via a circuit breaker or fuse to pin 2 of my 7 pin flat plug to power fridge while driving?

Any help, info or your thoughts on either of these 2 installs would be much appreciated.....

Cheers Guys.
__________________
2007 Landcruiser GXL V8
The burger with the lot & loving it !!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links

  #2  
Old 09-10-2009, 11:56 AM
Al's Avatar
Al Al is offline
LURKER
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 1,501
Garage
Default

can't help sorry but i wanna say ... nice camper! saw them at the camper show and i'd love one
Reply With Quote

  #3  
Old 09-10-2009, 12:59 PM
Old.Tony's Avatar
Old.Tony Old.Tony is offline
rotartsinimdA
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Posts: 11,345
My Mood:
Garage
Default

I had the mods done to my Commodore and I'm meeting the auto elec on Monday afternoon to push the same mods on my new Navara (yes, it's definitely here in Newcastle now and being outfitted).

Basically I had the flat 7-pin plug replaced with a flat 12-pin, and a matching plug on my caravan.

Pins 1 through 7 were standard. Pin 8 is a battery supply line and pin 10 is an earth. These are the ones we added a new line.

The standard (out of an auto electrician's handbook) electrical cable to run would be 4mm multistrand. Trouble is, pushing 4 wheel brakes at 5-6 amps each, this cable's going to heat up.

5mm is a lot better, but you can buy 6mm cable inside an insulating jacket - much like household wiring, but made for cars. The voltage drop over the length of the wire was negligible and the risk of it heating up is near zero.

I had a pair of thermal-resetting 30 Amp fuses bolted to the side of the engine bay and from these, ran the cables back into the cabin. One went up to the brake controller and the other ran straight to the rear. I don't think the one going to the brake controller had the negative (black) cable connected.

I don't know how the brake controller was wired in, but I imagine that there's a document that describes how to do that.

The standard 7 pin plug is wired like this:

1 - Left hand turn
2 - Reversing signal
3 - Earth return
4 - Right hand turn
5 - Service brakes
6 - Stop lamps
7 - Rear lamps, clearance & side marker lamps (parking lights)

Pin 5 takes the input from the brake controller.

I put the other cable's positive (red) to pin 8 and negative (black) to pin 10. My caravan has pin 8 wired through to the fridge, which I only run on 12V while we're driving (this way, I can refuel without turning off the fridge). Pin 10 of this plug can either go straight to the van's earth, or run it through to whatever inside.

When you mount that controller, take care to mount it reasonably close to horizontal. If it's the model I think it is, it's proportional and has to be mounted within a certain angle to horizontal so that the hall-effect sensor (that detects the vehicle's braking strength) actually works properly.

A tip: mount it somewhere not too far from the steering wheel. If your trailer/van ever starts to shimmy (wag, wander, fishtail, however - a side-to-side sway), a gentle tap on the override button brings it almost immediately back under control. You don't want to have to reach up under the dash to do that.

Hope that helps!
__________________

Check out the FAQs by clicking here!

Visit the Australian National Navara Muster website: www.navaramuster.com.au

"You can't fix stupid. Leave it be, and stupid will eventually fix itself - just stand clear while it does what evolution makes inevitable."
Reply With Quote

  #4  
Old 09-10-2009, 11:15 PM
Matt - VNET Pro's Avatar
Matt - VNET Pro Matt - VNET Pro is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Geelong, VIC
Posts: 529
My Mood:
Garage
Default

Thanks old.tony helps me out a bit, will see what wiring/diagrams comes with the unit then will have a crack it for sure, cant be that hard.
__________________
2007 Landcruiser GXL V8
The burger with the lot & loving it !!
Reply With Quote

  #5  
Old 12-10-2009, 11:10 AM
flashum1's Avatar
flashum1 flashum1 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 407
Garage
Default

use 6mm for the output wire to trailer connection, no risk of it being inadequate. i think it is the blue wire off ur controller. then i'm pretty sure youll have red, black & white left. positive (accesory power), negative, and brake signal, picked up from stop light switch. key on, test light on one side of brake light switch, one side will have constant power, other will only have power when pedal is depressed, this is the one you want. power supply fuse size is dependant on amount of load on controller, i think it's like 30 amp for single braked trailer axle and 40 for tandem. use ONLY auto reset circuit breaker, NOTHING ELSE! very imposrtant!
__________________
09 ST-X lifted on 265 hankook mt's. TJM steel bar, sjs canopy with internal bars and Rhino Pioneer tray. Foxwing awning and airtec snorkel. NPC clutch and billet single mass flywheel. Scott's rods 3" exhaust and hi flow cat. Clarion Nx302 in dash gps. 50w hid hella predators and Micks projectors 50w hid headlights with angel eyes. 3x 35ah agms in back and caddy fridge slide with chillstar 45Lt fridge / freezer. Dom3 chip it due next week!
Reply With Quote

  #6  
Old 09-11-2009, 02:02 AM
filobz's Avatar
filobz filobz is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Geelong, Victoria
Posts: 120
My Mood:
Garage
Default

Hi Matt,
I have installed brake controllers (3 times), the last time on my D40.
I am a sparkie by trade & I had to rewire the original setup installed at the caravan place,
you would not believe the mess they made.
I am also in Geelong, & happy to give you a hand.
Phil
__________________
2009 D40 STX 2.5TD 6 speed man D/cab, silver with TJM T15 steel winch bar, Narva Ultima rectangle (1 pencil & 1 spread beam) driving lights, Safari snorkel, tub liner, soft tonneau, TJM bash plates, GME 3200 UHF, 3000kg tow pack & electric trailer brakes.
Reply With Quote

  #7  
Old 09-11-2009, 05:20 AM
Matt - VNET Pro's Avatar
Matt - VNET Pro Matt - VNET Pro is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Geelong, VIC
Posts: 529
My Mood:
Garage
Default

G'Day Phil,

Thanks for your offer but finally had a crack at it on Saturday morning, actually wasn't as bad as I thought, just that none of the wires that come with the unit are long enough so needed to extend all 4 of them slightly. Going by instructions that came with the unit, 4 wires, Black to positive (2nd) battery via Auto Reset circuit breaker, White to negative (2nd) battery, Blue to trailer plug & Red to cold side or brake switch at pedal............sound right?

My only concern was that it wasnt switched anywhere meaning using constant power of my 2nd battery, but after a while it switches off automatically I have noticed, when car switched off.

Do you work for yourself, what trading name you under? Actually am in the Data & Comms industry working for myself also, VNET Pro - Data & Communication , might cross paths in the near future.

Cheers, Matt
__________________
2007 Landcruiser GXL V8
The burger with the lot & loving it !!
Reply With Quote

  #8  
Old 09-11-2009, 11:05 AM
Old.Tony's Avatar
Old.Tony Old.Tony is offline
rotartsinimdA
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Posts: 11,345
My Mood:
Garage
Default

That's one better than mine. I'm considering putting a 40 Amp relay in to deactivate the brake controller when the ignition is off.

I don't always disconnect from the van when camping, and this Christmas we'll be attached for 10 days straight. The battery might be a good one, but I am not taking changes when I'm 1,500km from home. Relay is going on before we leave for that trip!
__________________

Check out the FAQs by clicking here!

Visit the Australian National Navara Muster website: www.navaramuster.com.au

"You can't fix stupid. Leave it be, and stupid will eventually fix itself - just stand clear while it does what evolution makes inevitable."
Reply With Quote

  #9  
Old 10-11-2009, 08:03 AM
Laith's Avatar
Laith Laith is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mid North Coast
Posts: 511
Default

I goto install one of these soon as I just ordered a Camprite camper trailer that has elec brakes..

Ive seen a few on eBay. What ones are best?
__________________
2011 D40 St.
ARB Canopy & Outback drawer system.
Reply With Quote

  #10  
Old 10-11-2009, 08:26 AM
Old.Tony's Avatar
Old.Tony Old.Tony is offline
rotartsinimdA
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Posts: 11,345
My Mood:
Garage
Default

I had a Redarc in my Commodore, the auto electrician swore it was the best thing since sliced bread and that'd I'd love using it.

What a lot of horse hockey.

I went back and complained that when I pressed the brake, the van's brakes came on at a single rate - if I braked hard, the van didn't help at all, and if I braked softly, the van pulled the Commodore up to a halt. There was nothing "proportional" about it - as far as I am concerned, and it might just be the way the thing was mounted but I don't give a rats, it ruined it for me - Redarc brake controllers are less than satisfactory.

I now have a Tekonsha Voyager. I did ask for the Hayman Reese proportional controller, but they have stopped making these and I didn't want to install something that was not going to be supported any more.

Do I regret it?

Not on your nelly. Come for a ride in my car while we're towing the van. You won't even know the van is there, it stops so smoothly behind the car.

What you need to do: tell the auto electrician that you want 3 things:

1) The brake controller circuit must be fed power through a 30 Amp thermal-reset circuit breaker.

2) The brake controller's circuit (between the circuit breaker and the brake controller) must have a 40Amp (or better) relay that only brings the circuit power on when the vehicle's ignition is in the ON (engine running) position

3) The wires for the brake controller MUST be 6mm all the way from front to rear. If you ever go to tow 2 axles, you'll have up to 6A per wheel = 24 amps drawn. The usual 4mm wire can only carry 30A so that wire's going to get too warm and can cause problems. 5mm wire is rated for 40A - you're still using over 50% of the wire's capacity. 6mm is rated at 50Amps - go in confidence that you're not going to have an issue with that part of the vehicle.
__________________

Check out the FAQs by clicking here!

Visit the Australian National Navara Muster website: www.navaramuster.com.au

"You can't fix stupid. Leave it be, and stupid will eventually fix itself - just stand clear while it does what evolution makes inevitable."

Last edited by Old.Tony; 10-11-2009 at 08:27 AM. Reason: Changed a word that might have led to a lawsuit
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:06 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
| Home | Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search | New Posts |