D40 ongoing maintanence and parts

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Maccad40

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Feb 8, 2014
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Location
Geraldton WA
Hi All

Just wondering what parts people have replaced on there d40's over the years.I've got a 2010 thai d40 and i love it. has done 162k km with out any problems. I have had the timing chain done and uni's on tail sharft but thats it.
Was wondering what other parts people have had to replace to get them to 500k km or so.

cheers
 
07 auto STX diesel spainbuilt 115,000 ks
Replaced so far:

Suction control valve

Turbo boost sensor and all vacuum lines, old lines turned to dust

Rear tailshaft unis

Front bearing hubs

All fuel lines, old ones were cracked and sh**ty

Water pump

Fan clutch viscous drive

Auto trans radiator cooler bypass, fitted new trans cooler unit
 
Well I've had a few things replaced on my 2009 STX Auto.

* Right front wheel bearing
* Turbocharger
* Rear uni
* Rear diff rebuilt
* Transfer case bearings and seals (front and back)
* CV boots * zillion
* SCV
* turbocharger actuator control solenoid
* All vac hoses
* new auto trans radiator cooler fitted externally
* Radiator recored

I have had my throttle body replaced, as well as my throttle position sensor, but I don't believe these were needed (the mechanic hadn't diagnosed the faulty SCV). I've had other things replaced (mirrors -> Clearviews, towing plug was shit, Pioneer head unit was shit) but they're not from manufacturing failures or "worn out too early" issues.

I didn't mention having to replace my front disc rotors at 40K? Yeah, they were crap.
 
Old Tony
have you replaced your timing chain I know its not listed but just wanted to make sure.
 
No, had it checked several times, but I'm still on my original timing chain. No extraordinary noises from the front of the motor and we just returned from another 3,000+km trip towing the van (went to Wilpena Pound and Port Augusta) with no dramas.
 
Since getting mine, 3 years ago i've done the following.. (2008 D40 STX)

Remove / clean replace DPF
REMOVE DPF and put in DPF Delete and Calibrated sensors (DPF Stuffed)
CPS Sensor
Remove, clean and replace ECM (12 month ongoing issue with random limp mode - this was eventually the magic bullet)
Timing chains x 2.. Yes, the first one from Engines Australia failed after 25,000 and I needed another one. Expensive that was!
SCV x 2 (2nd one turned out to be not required, it was the pump needing a rebuild)
Remove and rebuild diesel pump
Viscous Fan remove and replace
Boost control Solenoid. After 2nd one started to fail replaced it with a Tillix - Never looked back
All boost vacuum lines
Radiator
Front rotors.
All Earth wires removed and either replaced, or re-crimped and terminated.

If i added it all up, i'd cringe and cry. It's a great drive when it's running smooth - just the headache and constant search for a new issue can be tiring!
 
I spoke too soon. This morning went to go for a drive and the car started fine. Pulled out from the curb and thought "hmm, maybe it's just a little off because it's cold ..." then tried to climb a nearby (small) hill. No. Not happening. Boost gauge is showing vacuum (and I know it's calibrated correctly - it worked fine yesterday). While waiting in town, I looked at the turbo actuator - it wsa moving up and down at idle just like you'd expect. Okay, so boost control solenoid is ok, vac lines are ok, actuator is ok, vanes are moving.

When I returned home after the slow (but vital) drive, I popped the bonnet and pulled the hose from the turbocharger inlet and tried to turn the impeller. Nope. Not budging. My $770 Forefront turbocharger is dead after 70,000km. Yes, I tow, but I am quite aware of the correct procedure to shut the engine down even after a long haul and employ a (not quite legal) turbo timer to assist.

So I'm putting my original turbocharger back in - and I'm buying a replacement (new) turbocharger for $356 delivered. Yes, that's correct.

Actually, I'm not putting it back in. I'm basically one-handed these days, so I save me bickies and pay for a mechanic. And I'll pay him again when my new one arrives.

When I get this one pulled out I'm going to strip it down and examine what caused the failure. I'm pretty annoyed that it's blown, but I'm very thankful that it went this morning and not yesterday while I was still west of Cobar NSW!
 
Heard of a few failures with the Forefront Turbo's Tony, so your not on your Pat Malone.

New Turbo for $365 is very nice pricing indeed..

Perhaps your Boost Solenoid had the turbo at full boost and over-drove the unit?
 
Forefront turbos are chinese made, and no doubt a $365 turbo would be too

You cant expect the same quality and longevity from a chinese product as you would (usually) get from a japanese or US built turbo
 
That wasn't what I was led to believe. I was told that Forefront had the impellers produced locally and they assembled the turbos themselves. If they're Chinese manufacture then I'm not going to be happy.

I'll get it a bearing kit and rebuild it - I suspect a bearing failure, so a rebuild will be successful as long as there's been no major scoring inside. Obviously don't have it back yet, hopefully will get it back this week and then I can start examining it.

I wonder if the $365 turbo is worth adding a decent bearing kit to it before installation? I might hold out on purchasing the new turbo until I've determined the cause of the failure of the Forefront one.
 
Turbos are a tricky one because often to replace with genuine costs a large percentage of the vehicles value.

Denco diesel sell genuine hydraulic garrett turbos to suit the earlier d40 navaras like mine, im not 100% sure which turbo yours would have oldtony, i think maybe 2009 was the changeover to the electronic turbo?

But yea genuine aint cheap

If my turbo ever blows ill just bend over and go brand new complete genuine unit, too many horror stories about rebuilt turbos and imports

who knows which company makes the bits and in which country the internals in these things are actually made

It sucks because Garrett, Mitsubishi, IHI, etc all make top notch turbos, but they tend to be hard to source because theres not much markup in it for the seller
 
Rotten luck Tony, I'd be curious as to what Jamie has to say about it shitting itself after 70k. I'm sure he specifies oil changes every 5k when you purchase his turbos.
 
He does, and is quite adamant about it. And so the process was followed.

Doesn't matter any more. I paid over $700 for something I can get for $356 (yes, I found a "billet cut impeller" turbocharger for that price). I'm going to crack the Forefront turbo open when I get it back and have a look at the bearings. I had the oil changed just before our 3200km trip so she wasn't due for another change for over 1,000km but it's not just about oil - it's also about the quality of the bushes. The 2056V turbocharger uses journal bearings - going to be interesting to see what happened.

When I have cracked it open I'll make the decision - put in a bearing kit, or go for a new one. I found some "genuine factory" turbos for under $500 and will be considering them as well.
 
Rotten luck Tony, I'd be curious as to what Jamie has to say about it shitting itself after 70k. I'm sure he specifies oil changes every 5k when you purchase his turbos.

don't know if it's coincidence, but F/F don't sell d40 turbo's anymore. only D22 2.5/3.0's! maybe their VNT's were problematic?
thier reasoning was they couldn't keep up with the demand. so stop making them all together???
 
Good point Eric, I did read a while ago that they were discontinued. Though what failures have been discussed here?. It will be good to see the results of Tony's autopsy of the unit.
 

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