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if u go down the road of replacing them, go for the ngk ones, i replaced mine about 3 years ago as part of preventative maintainance(oem ones were good i still have kept them probabaly wasted my money honestly since they were good anway)

or get some auto ones!

there is nothing to look at.

you have to separate the engine from the transmission to get the 3 bolts on the back of the sump. so either pull the engine out or pull the gearbox just enough to remove the bolts

what are you talking about friend, the owner who made the thread has a d22 and thats where my repply was aimed at the first place. but here are the manual pictures as well. d22 intake engine air comes after the egr valve just past the intercooler and into the engine. no butterflies d40 intake...

LOL thats just the egr regulator there is no actual butterfly on the intake side.

i cant find a picture of an yd25 on d22s that does. simply because there is none d40 thats a different story obviously

assuming you still have a yd25 you dont have a butterfly to begin with so you can just blank it and be fine. not all d40's are the same, engines till 2010 accept the blank while newer (euro5 emissions level in europe) dont earlier ones are fine

i have done up to 1500kg some years back on mine without problems and 1000kg is like a weekly thing for me so no problems there. the right spring is a bit sagged since the wheel arch sits about 1cm lower than left but its a god damn monster.

i was either gonna get the BFGs or Michellin Latitude for about the same price ended up with BFG since they are far superior offroad but would love to give the Michellin ATs a try just for the road comfort. in 4-5 years i hope! way less aggresive but every d40 i see around runs on these

got some BFG AT's KO2 on my d22 about a month ago, about 600 euro for all 4 (852.379 in australian dollars) pretty pleased and make the truck look and ride nice. only problem is they are stone catchers which they randomly eject inside the wheel arch and make noise when they do like you hit something

d22 and d40 manuals at least in europe say reccomened 5w30 all around but personally i have been running 10w40 for like the past 10 years without issue. tried 5w30 once sounded so bad compared to the sweet sound of the 10w40. at the end of the day its a diesel motor makes a good amoung of torque...

illegal much?

you wont have problem with oil in the maf as long as you follow the instructions and dont overspray it (comes oiled from factory so nothing to worry until its service interval) but do you really want to use an oily filter on a 4x4 vehicle, imagine the mud that it will create when you go offroad...

have you done any work on the timing chain area? if someone removed the timing cover, when you reinstall you have to apply some liquid gasket as well or it will leak a bit of oil like that. nothing to worry about but easy enough to fix

lol rabbit and bods you are just guys who cant afford to buy something good spend 10 hours in a forum because no real life and just trash talk lol. bods leave the brake cleaner alone and work for something better than a DX grade model haha poverty much? just look at you man, 5.000 posts and cant...

wrong again tho since both engines have exactly the same turbo (IHI rf4) even tho one is 500 cc bigger in combustion. yd25 being 2449 cc benefits on this again. i have driven both. the yd25 is much better to drive, its true that its dead weight when dropped under 1800 rpm in 3rd 4th 5th gear...

3 engines to be specific, yd25 was top choise and zd30 was a bit more rare mainly on DX grade models with black front bumper and wheel arches and we also had the KA24 petrol engine in the d22. Japan made ofc. all since 2002 that is. in any way you are trying to compare the yd25 is a more modern...

Osram Nightbreakers halogen bulbs claiming +110% more lights are pretty popular in europe and they are also made in Germany so they are quality also. i have them for like 3 years now on the car and they havent played up or burnt. if they died i will buy the same again (around 20 euro for a pair...

every 3-4 years or 80,000 kms is more than enough. i prefer genuine fluids in general! most of them are japanesse so quality isnt a joke