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I installed a large front mount kit from Forefront Industries. At std boost no problems, when I upped the boost to 20psi I had issues with hoses coming loose. I've since extended one of the pipes at the front to fit into the silicon hoses better and turned down the boost to 18 (unrelated to this...

And if you do install the probe in the EGR port, you will probably end up completely removing the EGR pipe off the engine and just run blanking plates either side (with the exhaust side drilled and tapped for your probe). These plates should be reasonably thick if you do remove the pipe totally...

Also, as said by others. You need to make sure the probe is actually in the exhaust flow to work optimally. Best way is to install as described above; run the car for a few minutes, then let it cool and pull the probe out again and examine the tip. If it is in the exhaust flow, it should show...

That was the plan Bods, in case I get stuck towing up a hill or something and can't do much about it. Just freaks me out a bit when the buzzer first goes off without warning (if I haven't been watching the gauges) but again, that's why it's there. I chose the quietest buzzer I could find in...

^^ I've got a probe there which is connected to a digital gauge (Autron) with alarm. I've got a second probe in the dump pipe (3" exhaust) connected to a gauge on a pillar pod. I can monitor pre and post turbo temps. It can be up to 200C difference between the two (hotter pre-turbo) but...

You don't mention checking the door switch (or are you referring to turning it on manually?). Agree, get the multimeter out and start testing.

I've got Hardlid struts, locks, hinges, pins etc off a genuine nissan Hardlid from my 03 d22. The struts and locks are about 2 yrs old. $40 plus postage or pick up from Plumpton NSW.

So, FINALLY get to trial the winch today loading up the car ready to go away tomorrow. Nothing like leaving it to the last minute. Fortunately it worked a treat. It puts the car slightly further back than I normally used to, but that just meant I had to adjust the tiedowns at the front...

Thought I'd share a quick mod I've done over the last two nights after work. I bought a USB/12V Cig lighter socket from Jaycar for around $30, then ran a wire and fuse from the front cig lighter to a plug under the console. Then screwed the USB socket to the back of the console; wired the two...

and yet they've just announced fixed price servicing for all Holden cars dating back to the 48/215!

I put a post up in a similar vein recently and the company recommended was in Wetherill Park. It would be in the D22 engine section regarding tuning post chip. Can't remember if it was West End Diesel or Sydney diesel that was recommended - haven't been yet, but they recently opened a branch in...

I haven't looked yet. Can the rear bar be changed without having to remove the towbar do you recall?

As above, 515 (the auberins buzzer kicks in at 509) at the egr spot, then I back off. The dump pipe probe would be 100c less than that. I know I'm leaving a big margin of error there, but rather not push it. I find full throttle in 5th really makes the EGTs rise quickly. I also have the mods...

Mine, zd30 runs a probe at the egr pipe spot (blanked off) on the exhaust manifold, and a second probe tapped into the dump pipe. They run on separate gauges though. Makes around 100-150C difference. Mine's only seen around max 510C on pre-turbo.

Now I've pretty much done all the planned engine mods, I'm looking for a good diesel mechanic in Sydney's Western Suburbs to tune it for the chip and exhaust. Anyone recommend any good workshops that could optimise the chip setting to suit the turbo/intercooler/exhaust combo? Areas within...

I've made up the "extension cable" so it's all good to go. I bought two of those red handle things for the plugs on the extension cable, just waiting for those to arrive then I should be all done! The ones on the trailer and car are mounted in those mounting brackets. Looking forward to testing...

So, just an update on this. Before christmas I had finished the wiring on the trailer and gathered the parts needed for the car side. Over the last few days, I've finished off the in-car wiring; isolator, and 175A anderson plug for the rear of the car. Oh, and I did buy a roller at a boat shop...

There is also an Australian Vehicle standard which can be downloaded which explains the requirements for light trailers - things like how many taillights, reflectors, running lights, what colours and where etc they need to be located. Well worth flipping through if you haven't already.

Haha, sure.

No, bit older than that as in Renault R8 lol