Hey Eric,
It sounds like no boost in terms of performance but overboost in terms of visible symptoms, which is why the hoses are trying to push their way off the intercooler on both sides. I assume that Torque has in the past shown the correct boost levels but now it doesn't? This does point to a sensor malfunction, but might be a faulty turbo.
yes Tony, i always could read vacuum and boost, now absolutely no movement
We need to start with some basics.
1) Does the car start ok? If so, there's no blockage in the air path. At idle, a turbo that isn't turning is NOT a blockage, but an intercooler filled with oil is.
Car starts and idles normally, pipes either side of the intercooler are trying to push off
2) Is there any smoke apparent if you're following the car? Tons of black smoke means your turbo is probably not working much at all (which also means the boost sensor is probably ok) OR the EGR valve is letting too much exhaust in. If there's no black smoke at all when the car is floored, it's likely that the turbo is overboosting - although they usually perform well, they don't go sluggish (unless there's a second problem).
no excessive smoke, i have changed the vac hoses and boost control valve recently, EGR has been blocked for many years
3) If the power problem appears only after using full accelerator (in other words, the car drives normally up to the time that you use a lot of throttle) it's probably the SCV. You may notice the engine "hunting" at idle, where it gets little surges but doesn't settle to a nice steady drone. Injector cleaner might help it for a little while but ultimately this is a sign that the SCV needs replacing.
feels sluggish all the time
I'm assuming the air filter's been checked and you've cleaned the MAFS.
filter is clean, but haven't cleaned the MAFS
If there's heaps of black smoke, it could be turbo or EGR (most common, assuming the airway is clear). Turbocharger is usually vacuum lines, or the boost control solenoid. You can test the solenoid - take the vac hose that runs across the top of the motor off and connect it directly to the turbocharger. Be gentle if you take it for a drive, you'll overboost really easily and the ECU won't be able to back the boost off as you decelerate, so have some tools with you in case one of the charge air hoses pops off. When you do connect that hose to the actuator, you should immediately see the arm underneath it move (take it on and off a couple of times).
when i start the car, i can see the turbo actuator arm pull up
If the actuator arm doesn't move, either that vac hose is toast (possible), the vac pump has failed (unheard of) or the actuator has a busted diaphragm (very rare). It's usually just the hose. If connecting the hose directly makes it suddenly work better, the Boost Control Solenoid is shot. I got tired of replacing mine and went with a Tilix valve.