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  #81  
Old 09-08-2019, 05:16 AM
KevinE KevinE is offline
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Originally Posted by tony d22 View Post
You can buy replacement parts from BBT.
I have spares in the parts box that would fit. The spool off an Echo top handle with fit straight in & the spool off a Stihl HT75 will fit with minor mods.

But, why bother! It's only 11-12 hours old & has already failed once.
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  #82  
Old 09-08-2019, 08:39 PM
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If the chain is sharp it is a weapon of a saw.
Actually, I haven't sharpened it as yet.
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  #83  
Old 09-08-2019, 08:42 PM
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The only thing I don't like about the saw is the ancient chain tensioner with the 2 bolts you have to undo.
The Husky has an all in one dial bolt that locks down flat when finished.
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  #84  
Old 09-08-2019, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinE View Post
Noodling hardwood with a 54cc saw is extremely impressive indeed.

I know blokes (rellies) who do that down around Mt. Gambier & they use an MS880 & a 394XP.

Not sure I'd even want to be doing too much of that type of work with a 7901 lol!

I only noodle when I have to. I have a Fiskars X27 which does an excellent job usually. it's just the big knots it has an issue with. Last trip in to collect wood I didn't have a lot of choice - very little left - so I took what I could, and there are a couple of pieces I'll have to noodle. Since they're only about 50cm across, my MS180 shouldn't have too much trouble. I can't (yet) justify getting a larger saw.
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  #85  
Old 10-08-2019, 05:13 AM
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I only noodle when I have to. I have a Fiskars X27 which does an excellent job usually. it's just the big knots it has an issue with. Last trip in to collect wood I didn't have a lot of choice - very little left - so I took what I could, and there are a couple of pieces I'll have to noodle. Since they're only about 50cm across, my MS180 shouldn't have too much trouble. I can't (yet) justify getting a larger saw.
You probably already know this Tony, but if you just noodle down on the log a short way with the chainsaw, then hit the log in those shallow cuts with the block splitter, it should split OK.

The MS180 is a very good saw! It cuts well above it's weight. Much better than the newer model, which is strato.

If you ever do feel the need for a bigger saw, I'd skip the 45-60cc range if it were me. I own three 36cc saws these days & used to have both a 52cc & a 45cc saw as well (MS260C & a Husky 345). My next saw up was a 7901 Makita. The jump in power between the 36cc saws & the 1st two was very, very small & the weight difference is significant. I found myself going straight from the 36cc saw to the 7901 when the branches got too big for the small saw. I sold the 260 & the 345 & have never missed them.

Food for thought on buying a larger Chinese chainsaw; I helped someone assemble the 72cc version he'd bought on Ebay. I'd rate it no more powerful than a MS260 & a whole lot heavier. The chain that came with it was junk. Once blunt, good luck on getting an edge on it again. He sold it.

Like I said, I needed a new bar & chain for another saw & the Chinese saw I bought came with an Oregon bar & chain for less coin than just buying a bar & chain, so I bought it. I doubt I'd do it again though.
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  #86  
Old 10-08-2019, 05:18 AM
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My small saws!

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  #87  
Old 11-08-2019, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinE View Post
You probably already know this Tony, but if you just noodle down on the log a short way with the chainsaw, then hit the log in those shallow cuts with the block splitter, it should split OK.

The MS180 is a very good saw! It cuts well above it's weight. Much better than the newer model, which is strato.

If you ever do feel the need for a bigger saw, I'd skip the 45-60cc range if it were me. I own three 36cc saws these days & used to have both a 52cc & a 45cc saw as well (MS260C & a Husky 345). My next saw up was a 7901 Makita. The jump in power between the 36cc saws & the 1st two was very, very small & the weight difference is significant. I found myself going straight from the 36cc saw to the 7901 when the branches got too big for the small saw. I sold the 260 & the 345 & have never missed them.

Food for thought on buying a larger Chinese chainsaw; I helped someone assemble the 72cc version he'd bought on Ebay. I'd rate it no more powerful than a MS260 & a whole lot heavier. The chain that came with it was junk. Once blunt, good luck on getting an edge on it again. He sold it.

Like I said, I needed a new bar & chain for another saw & the Chinese saw I bought came with an Oregon bar & chain for less coin than just buying a bar & chain, so I bought it. I doubt I'd do it again though.

I'm happy to resist generic branded chainsaws.


The MS391 (64cc) looks to be the one that has an engine powerful enough to do what I want, with a full sized chain. I replaced the chain in my MS180 with a slightly wider one (same length) and the chips eject much better now, but it's still a "low profile" chain so the cut isn't as fast as it could be and applying pressure to the saw just causes it to struggle, heat the chain and stretch it without cutting any faster.


I don't think I need an MS880. I doubt I'll ever see timber here large enough to warrant such a big saw. The biggest diameter log I'm cutting (and doing ok with the MS180) is about 0.8m, which my saw only just manages to reach from both sides.
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  #88  
Old 12-08-2019, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old.Tony View Post
I'm happy to resist generic branded chainsaws.


The MS391 (64cc) looks to be the one that has an engine powerful enough to do what I want, with a full sized chain. I replaced the chain in my MS180 with a slightly wider one (same length) and the chips eject much better now, but it's still a "low profile" chain so the cut isn't as fast as it could be and applying pressure to the saw just causes it to struggle, heat the chain and stretch it without cutting any faster.


I don't think I need an MS880. I doubt I'll ever see timber here large enough to warrant such a big saw. The biggest diameter log I'm cutting (and doing ok with the MS180) is about 0.8m, which my saw only just manages to reach from both sides.
Yeah, I hear what you're saying about an 880! I've never owned anything bigger than a 660 & I cut trees for a living! No longer even have a 660, as 99% of the trees in domestic gardens can be brought down with a smaller saw. The guys I mentioned above are farmers. In fact, the guy with the 394XP hardly ever uses it any more because it's too heavy.

I'm confused about the new chain on your 180. Depending on the bar that came with the saw, you could be running either 3/8 .050 LP, or 3/8 .043 LP? It should be stamped on the fat end of the bar. The bar in the picture blow is an Echo 14" bar running .050 gauge, 3/8 chain and requires 53 drive links. LP chain isn't a problem, I use it on all 4 of the saws in the picture above & they cut like demons! It's "safety" chain, or "low kickback" chain (same stuff) that's the problem. The only time I have that chain is on a pole saw, because it stops the saw from skating along the branch, which tends to happen with a pole saw. What's stopping your saw from biting in the cut are the depth gauges (rakers), not the width of the chain. If you get yourself a loop of whatever is stamped on your bar from a lawn mower shop, you should be right with the 180. Just make sure you drop the rakers with a flat file after you sharpen the cutters on the chain.

(Re the chain width; Sthil make a tiny 1/4" mini picco chain for the MS150 & it's incredibly narrow. It cuts very, very well! So well, that guys are modding their little Echo 2511T's to run the mini picco bar & chain)



A 391 is a good saw. just be aware before you buy one that they are a clam shell design. All that means is that they are a tad difficult to repair if you fry one, or wear it out. Still a very good saw though. A colleague ran one in place of a 381 as a large climbing saw for the best part of 2 years, which probably equates to 200 years or more of domestic use! So they're very well made.
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  #89  
Old 12-08-2019, 11:54 AM
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I just had a quick look at the Stihl website. If stock, your 180 has a 16" 3/8LP .043 bar & chain on it Tony. I think your saw would wake right up with a shorter bar!

I run 12" bars, with 3/8LP .050 chains on my Echo's. They come stock with 14" bars & the difference between 12 & 14 inch bars is night & day. I can't imagine why Stihl put a 16" bar on that saw!
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  #90  
Old 14-08-2019, 10:36 PM
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I put a new 16" .055 bar on the saw so I could get better ejection of the chips and that part worked very well, at a cost of slightly more effort by the engine. It cuts better than it used to so I'm happy enough about it. I think it has to do with the length of the bar and my insistence on cutting logs much wider than the bar length, so the entire length of chain spends its time inside the cut.



I'd like a little more reach, and if I'm going to do that, I'm going to get a new saw because I know the MS180 isn't going to like a 20" bar, especially since I'd probably also need to increase the toorh size to a full profile rather than the low profile I have now.
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