2010 D22 Dual Battery Setup

nathan_lunn86 · Jun 11, 2012

Hey Guys,
I just want some advice about the dual battery set up for the 2010 D22 that have the dual cranking batteries as standard. I have read many thoughts on this and other forums, some are saying that the right battery needs to disconnected from the alternator, install an isolator and she'll be sweet.. Is this the process? Have also read from others saying that electricians say it cant be done and others say too expensive. Just want to get it nailed on the head soon..

Cheers,

-Lunny

RustyNav09 · Jun 11, 2012

I'll be watching this closely. I have heard mixed responses aswell. Even to the point of removing the battery completely. Remove the positive lead from the Alternator and the negative lead off the body and remove. I want to know if this is possible so I can remove it and utilise the space left for other gear

Hodge · Jun 11, 2012

I'm in exactly the same boat here. Been reading a lot throughout this forum and asking around about it and getting a lot of mixed feedback. Even met a autoelec who refused to touch it, as it's such a grey area.
As i'm adding more and more gadgets and about to drop a canopy and a begin the camp/tour setup, i'd like to sort the dual battery system out pronto. But just really confused at the moment.

nathan_lunn86 · Jun 12, 2012

Yeah im getting mine set up as a tourer aswell.. I dont really want to add another battery in the tray if i can set up the two that are in the front.

sparra04 · Jun 12, 2012

mines been cranking fine on 1 battery
i disconnected 2nd batt from alternator, and now have 2 aux batteries being charged with a redarc bcdc charger
you can also fit an isolater between 2 factory batteres and let the alternator do all the work
but you need to disconect 2nd batt from alt if you want them isolated

bods · Jun 12, 2012

as far as i was aware it is all in here http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=1957

i have had mine running on one battery for over 12 months now, this is the second winter it will be on a single battery. i just disconnected the positive terminal at the passenger side battery and insulated the terminal. then ran a new lead from the main battery to an isolator and then the other side over to the other battery.

if you are really worried, just make a bracket to mount the isolator close to the factory wire that runs over there and hook that up to the isolator, then a new wire from the other side of the isolator to the battery.

i didn't bother touching the ground, just left the factory one there... from my looking at the wiring, it seems the batteries are connected at the starter motor, so one day i will probably remove the wiring, but for now it can stay where it is, it hasn't caused any problems yet... i recently put power into the tub also, just hooked the wire up to the aux side of the isolator and ran it into along the chassis with the brake lines to the tub so that way it uses the aux battery all the time.

vornar · Jun 12, 2012

I did the same as Bods.

Disconnected the positive feed to the second battery, covered up the end and cable tied it out of the way.

I then ran a cable around the top of the firewall with a redarc installed on the top of the wheel arch behind the first battery.

I now run a feed wire to a waterproof socket in the tub, as well as two cigarette plugs in the rear of the centre console, oh and the UHF runs off the second battery as well.

One day i will remove the lead, maybe ill leave it there till i sell the car, pull the redarc and large cable out and go back to stock... :rock:

Krankin · Jun 12, 2012

nathan_lunn86 said:
others saying that electricians say it cant be done and others say too expensive.

Cheers,

-Lunny

Biggest load of SHITE i have ever read......if true thats what they say, they should have their licences canceled.

RustyNav09 · Jun 12, 2012

Well I think ill be having a closer look tonight while doing my intercooler mod. If its that simple by removing the Alternator and cable and pulling it out I think the 80 series box may take its place earlier

Dooey281088 · Jun 12, 2012

Hi Guys
I also went to an autolec who recommended a third battery be set up in the tub. I was told it is possible to set the batteries under the good up no problems at all but he was worried what this might do to the warranty should anything go astray. So I now have a third battery set up in a custom built box that I made to fit in between and over the rear wheel arches.

DodgyPuzzles · Jun 12, 2012

Dooey281088 said:
Hi Guys
I also went to an autolec who recommended a third battery be set up in the tub. I was told it is possible to set the batteries under the good up no problems at all but he was worried what this might do to the warranty should anything go astray. So I now have a third battery set up in a custom built box that I made to fit in between and over the rear wheel arches.

My brother is an autoelec and gave me the same advice, I spoke to several people at Nissan in depth about voiding the warranty and was told Nissan need to prove, without doubt, the modification caused the fault for the warranty claim to be void.

My brother said they do it all the time, the redarc cost me around $80 and took him no time at all to install it.

Hodge · Jun 12, 2012

Krankin said:
Biggest load of SHITE i have ever read......if true thats what they say, they should have their licences canceled.

Yep, hence why i'm not speaking to him again. This was the same bloke that attempted to tell me i'd need a third battery to run my warn winch properly. But thats another story.

bods said:
as far as i was aware it is all in here http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=1957

i have had mine running on one battery for over 12 months now, this is the second winter it will be on a single battery. i just disconnected the positive terminal at the passenger side battery and insulated the terminal. then ran a new lead from the main battery to an isolator and then the other side over to the other battery.

if you are really worried, just make a bracket to mount the isolator close to the factory wire that runs over there and hook that up to the isolator, then a new wire from the other side of the isolator to the battery.

i didn't bother touching the ground, just left the factory one there... from my looking at the wiring, it seems the batteries are connected at the starter motor, so one day i will probably remove the wiring, but for now it can stay where it is, it hasn't caused any problems yet... i recently put power into the tub also, just hooked the wire up to the aux side of the isolator and ran it into along the chassis with the brake lines to the tub so that way it uses the aux battery all the time.

Ok so, to put words into pictures, it looks something like this ? Excuse the low Paint skills.

bods · Jun 12, 2012

^^i won't quote it, but yes exactly like that. then you can either run new accessories from the battery terminal or from the aux side of the isolator

there is also a nice spot on the driver's side inner quarter panel to mount the isolator, complete with m6 (i think) captive nuts spaced perfectly for mounting it

Old.Tony · Jun 13, 2012

Hodge - exactly like that. The isolator will take care of the separation from the primary battery and the charging of the passenger-side battery.

All you need to do afterwards is run a (fused) length of cable from the passenger side battery in to the tub. Make it a big cable, so the voltage drop is reduced.

If you're only running a fridge, maybe a 2A light and maybe a radio or something, a 20A fuse would be enough. Keep it small to maximise your protection.

gunning1987 · Jun 13, 2012

make sure you remove then leads from the alternator and starter to reduce the risk of having a short in the engine bay.

sparra04 · Jun 13, 2012

the only cable you need to terminte is the active on 2nd battery
i cut mine near where it enters wiring loom,sealed it and wrapped it in rescue tape
way easier than removing as you would need to alter original wiring loom

gunning1987 · Jun 13, 2012

sparra04 said:
i cut mine near where it enters wiring loom,sealed it and wrapped it in rescue tape

all the best then.....

If it takes a little more time to cut off the terminal and pull it through the loom so be it, thats all im trying to point out.

sparra04 · Jun 13, 2012

gunning1987 said:
all the best then.....

If it takes a little more time to cut off the terminal and pull it through the loom so be it, thats all im trying to point out.

Good luck mate
Be prepared to rewire most of ur engine loom
I am 100% confident with my terminate and sealing job
Probably the safest and most insulated wiring on whole car

nathan_lunn86 · Jun 14, 2012

That rescue tape is the best thing out there!

sparra04 · Jun 14, 2012

nathan_lunn86 said:
That rescue tape is the best thing out there!

its amazing stuff
a must in all toolboxes

2010 D22 Dual Battery Setup

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