Obviously if you blow a fuse, you just need a bigger fuse, try a 30 amp! (joking).
The diagram shows circuit as ignition switch > fuse > hazard switch > blinker canister/relay thingy (lol) > column indicator switch > lamps. So the canister gets supply through normally closed contacts in the hazard switch (that open when it is pushed in).
It might be worth bypassing this and see if you have blinkers then, could have fried the contacts (assuming there was a fault in the canister/relay that was originally taking out the fuse?). It shows terminals 1 and 2 for this. It also lists the hazard switch as possible cause in "faultfinding -no blinker or hazard function". Something to try at least. At any rate with ign on and hazard switch off, you should have 12V at blinker canister. If you find this is ok, might be a problem in the column switch?
It also shows the hazard function itself uses different fuse to the blinkers (straight from battery, not through ignition switch), so if the hazards won't go after/if you get the blinkers going, it might be kaput also.
ps. there is another relay labelled "multi-remote control unit", guessing it is for indication re remote locking/unlocking for vehicles that have this. It's just in parallel with column switch and looks like you could remove it and make no difference, don't think it would have any bearing on blinker operation.