Remote Central Locking

I fitted Command central loocking kit on the weekend. Got the actuactor in and working OK with the remote.
Problem is the wiring diagram is a bit vague with wiring to the flasher unit and brake light? and a couple of switches to earth.
I have scanned the wiring diagram but not sure how to attach it.
Can someone tell me how to attach please ?
Cheers

I don't use the forum for my pics so this might be wrong but if you go into your control panel one of the links down the left hand side will be something along the lines of "Pictures and albums" if you click on that you can set up your own photo album and upload your pics to it.

You could also use something like photobucket etc and upload your pics to a free account then just use the image link in the message box to link directly too it.

is there any change of seeing how you have installed the actuactor in the drivers side door?

jimbyman said:

is there any change of seeing how you have installed the actuactor in the drivers side door?

Click to expand...

I second this, pics would be appreciated if possible.

hi mate send me the wiring diagram you have and the door actuator wiring diagram and I`ll give you the heads up

thanks mate,

it’s not so much the wiring up of the device, but more of the mechanical components. How and where to install in the driver’s door. If I need to install a new actuator.

I have been lead to believe that I can add remote central locking by tapping into the wires for the door lock button on the inside door trim (by doing this I would not need to change or add new components). Would also need to connect 12v power and earth.

is that right or am i being lead down the wrong path

I'm not quite sure where you are headed but you should only need an actuator if there is not already one in the door, I don't know how much cabling and stuff Nissan put into the door of vehicles without central locking but it's a fair bet there is no actuator since they want to charge $500 a door.

How the actuator will fit will vary, if it's a Nissan one it will mount exactly where they want it too but if it's an after market it will come with a mounting strap which gives you ample choice in mounting positions from about 3 or 4 cm away to about 25cm away.

I haven't looked inside the door skin but the way it should work is that a steel rod will hook to the latch and the actuator moving in and out will engage or disengage the mechanism (polarity if the cables will determine movement in or out) and it will be virtually the same for any door.

Door actuators do not need 12 volt and earth they need two 12 v feeds, one pushes the plunger out and one pulls the plunger back, a third wire may be used as a return to notify the system when an unlocked door has been opened but this third wire may not always be included. With a 12v feed (or a 9v battery) you can test the actuator wires to see which one controls which function, then once you know that you can see where the actuator has to mount to make the desired function open or close the latch then hook each one up to the applicable cable from the control box. If you hook it up and it is working the wrong way simple swap the wires.

Update:

I was just looking at the schematics for the door and the chances of putting a Jaycar type actuator into the same location as the Nissan system is not going to be easy. The Nissan actuator is a lot different and about twice the size so the mounting points will be different. That's not to say it can't be done through a different mounting mechanism with the parts in the actuator kit but it does appear that it will take a bit of modding.

Also it appears the Nissan actuator could be cable controlled with each cable controlling lock or unlock not a single actuator movement like the after market actuators. I'd suggest that this could make a single plunger type actuator more difficult to adapt, however without seeing it with the door skin removed I wouldn't wipe the idea totally.

I fitted the Mongoose MCL2000 kit ($120 off Ebay with an extra actuator).
See screws in picture (marked with red arrows) for the mounting position of the actuator.

Works perfectly and doesn't interfere with the window mechanism.

That actuator above is exactly the same as the Jaycar "Master" actuator which they sell for $29.95 so it proves that after market actuators will mount properly as expected. However if you look at the Nissan genuine actuator you can easily see the differences and see why after market wont mount the same way.



The genuine one mounts higher than Fox's and is a larger unit, the basic operation is the same principal but it also works in a different way. Still doesn't justify the $500 price tag Nissan quoted me but I guess I can see why it's dearer than the Jaycar model.

KraftyPg said:

Update:

I was just looking at the schematics for the door and the chances of putting a Jaycar type actuator into the same location as the Nissan system is not going to be easy. The Nissan actuator is a lot different and about twice the size so the mounting points will be different. That's not to say it can't be done through a different mounting mechanism with the parts in the actuator kit but it does appear that it will take a bit of modding.

Also it appears the Nissan actuator could be cable controlled with each cable controlling lock or unlock not a single actuator movement like the after market actuators. I'd suggest that this could make a single plunger type actuator more difficult to adapt, however without seeing it with the door skin removed I wouldn't wipe the idea totally.

Click to expand...

i fitted a jaycar actuator a few weeks ago with a steelmate remote also from jaycar total cost $104
fitting actuator was easy
getting the 2 wires through door back to control box was a f#@!$n nightmare
works ok

Thanks guys for your input, just what I was looking for.

How did you manage to get the wires through the wiring harness?

jimbyman said:

Thanks guys for your input, just what I was looking for.

How did you manage to get the wires through the wiring harness?

Click to expand...

i just cable tied wires to existing harness
the only way i could see to get them inside harness would be to remove door and harness (big job,not enough beer in fridge)
see pics
Pictures by sparra04 - Photobucket

Using an old thread title. I am now having issues with my remote central locking and I'm confused about it all.

Ok so the d22 comes standard with central locking which is key operated. I had an aftermarket unit fitted with alarm by autobarn about 20months ago. All was working perfectly till lastnight.

The remote works and the indicators flash like normal to indicate the locking and unlocking of the car which means its switching the alarm on and off, BUT the doors don't lock at all with the remote and I can still keylock the door via the central locking. Anyone got any ideas? The canopy doesn't unlock either with the remote like it should.

Any help would be great or its going back to autobarn for diagnosis

Could be a loose wire on/in the control unit, seems odd but if only one function is failing but that feature is working from a different direction to me that indicates either a loose wire or bad circuit in the unit. It could be a 2 second diagnosis or it could be a 2 hour diagnosis and of course i could be completely wrong.

Could be loose screws where the actuator rod mounts to the existing rod so causes it to slip when you hit the remote. It would explain why it still works when you use the key and why the alarm would still work. Had this problem on the wife's car. I opened up the door and sure enough was just loose screws. Funny enough she had it installed at Autobarn as well. Hope this helps.

All fixed

it ended up being a cracked locking mechanism housing. had split fomr water ingress which was making a short circuit, which explains the fuses blowing all the time.

Thanks