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Dave.

Anyone got the pinouts for the factory Nissan driving light switch.

Dave.

Last weekend I wired the switch up, easy as.

Anyone with Narva Ultima 225's and wants to do the same. You dont use the red wire on the Narva switch.

Dave.

The bloody engine light

Check this one out! Everytime I tow the camper away and work my 3.0 lt really hard, I have a problem with the engine light coming on and the engine going into a limp mode so to speak. A good mate of mine who's checked it out, seems to think it's a connection problem, (He's a very recognised Auto Elec) but I beg to differ with his opinion. I believe it may be a boost problem, haven't put a gauge on it as yet, but will check out boost pressure.
Driven over some cronic corrigations and NO probs, which tells me, NO connection problems. No camper NO problems.Anyone else had a simmilar problem with there 3.0 lt

Can't you check the fault code?

Yeah

Comes up as computer failure ?

How did you go mate.

Dave.

Bloody engine light

Haven't been away Dave flat out at work, becoming a technical Guru on plugs though. Must have pulled every one apart just to be sure, Boost seems to be fine, maybe a sus boost sensor?

check coolant level / concentration, ur nav will be working harder with a load up it's arse therefore will probably be getting hotter.
don't rely purely on temp gauge as if sensor for gauge is mounted high in the system it will only register on air and won't be reading as hot as coolant could be.
if level is ok, get you coolant checked with a refractometer, most heavy diesel workshops should have one, it will measure your coolant concentration.
it sounds more likely to be a boost sensor though.

wiring up driving spot lights that go on with the highbeams. I have the lights and wires and relay. Took is off a vs commodore. Just wondering what colour wire do i tap into, to wire up the spotties?

On the D40 - and I can't imagine why they'd change this particular thing on the D22 - it depends which headlight you're tapping in to.

If you're using the harness on the LEFT headlamp, the GREEN wire is the "high beam" one.

If you're using the harness on the RIGHT headlamp, the BLUE wire is the "high beam" one.

Old.Tony said:

On the D40 - and I can't imagine why they'd change this particular thing on the D22 - it depends which headlight you're tapping in to.

If you're using the harness on the LEFT headlamp, the GREEN wire is the "high beam" one.

If you're using the harness on the RIGHT headlamp, the BLUE wire is the "high beam" one.

Click to expand...

My manual says the same thing but it always pays to be cautious and use a meter to check these things.

When doing my reversing camera I used the manual to trace wires for the feeds and while the wires at the relay end were as the manual says the wire colours before the loom splits off to each side were different and the wire colours after the loom were different. Was easy enough to prove which was which with the light assembly out and a meter but without that there wasn't much hope of finding the wire just with the colours.

cheers. But i got no idea how to use a meter or test lite, il try experiment next few days. Til then. Anyone got a definite idea?

If I didn't have a meter I'd run with Tony's colours given that my manual says the same thing, you have to have some faith occasionally.

I'm not suggesting the colours are wrong because I haven't checked them myself but if you do have the means to check it it's something worth doing whenever power is concerned whether it's 12, 24 or 240 volts.

Test light should be easy enough if you can access the back of the globe (or wiring loom) easy enough. Turn lights on high touch test light to wires or plug or socket wherever you get a connection and if it lights up there is power. You can of course do this with low beam as well to make sure you know which is the low beam wire.

thankyou for this peoples

Turbo Timer D40

Has anyone worked out how to hook up a Turbo Timer in a way that will allow you lock your Nav with the remote as per usual ?

Cheers

The Boggard plug in Turbo Timers seem to work fine in the late model D22's, not 100% on the D40's but my locking works as per normal with my Turbo Timer....no problems.

using a multimeter

Heya Dave,
This may sound stupid but do you know of any websites that can give me info on the correct methods on how to use a multimeter? It would be a great help at the moment. any other sites that deal with navaras that you find useful would also be helpful. I'm a virgin when dealing with navaras so I'd like to learn all about my little ute and how best to lokk after her. Thanx for your time, I await your reply.

I'm not Dave but I'll answer.

It depends what you want to learn, there are thousands of different multimeters around and while they all do similar things some do more than others. If the meter you have doesn't have instructions try a web search for the model and see if there is an online manual, if you haven't brought one then just about any you do buy (from an electronics shop atleast) will come with a fairly decent set of instructions which will get you by.

Using something like "how to use a multimeter" in google yields a number of responses that can probably help you with some of the basics but for anything more than basic volts, amps continuity etc you would probably be best getting specific manuals as there can be different procedures for different meters.

If you just want to test the voltage of a battery then most of us here can give you a 3 second run down on how to do it but if you want to be able to use a meter to find faults or trace problems then there is a lot more to it so I'd definitely suggest getting even a basic one from DSE (or the like) and reading the manual then progressing from there. You can pick basic ones up from under $20 these days and they will give you something to start with, you might even find some online information by searching for the model number then once you have the basics if you want more functions you can move up to something a bit more expensive but I wouldn't suggest jumping in the deep end straight away when it might just bamboozle you and give you a dislike for such things before you start.

As for other sites about Navara's isn't this the only one?

I think Bearbum wants to see which is the active wire in the headlamp loom so he can fit driving lights.

You don't really need to use a multimeter. Get a test light - you can just hook up a 12V light from an indicator - put one pole on the negative battery (black lead, exposed terminal, or just clamp it securely to the exposed metal on the motor). The other lead from the globe becomes your test lead. If you touch a wire in the car that's active with this lead, and the globe lights, you've found a live wire.

The trick with the headlamp is to figure which of those wires is live when the headlights are on and in high beam mode. Turn on the headlights, flick them to high beam, touch the three wires with the wire from this test lamp - only ONE of them will light the lamp, and that's the wire you need to tap into so you connect your relay for the driving lights.

So - test light is a small parking lamp/indicator globe that has two wires from it, one goes to any bare metal or the battery negative and the other is your magic test lead. Simple as that.

Test the light before you go hunting, just touch the test lead on the battery positive terminal to make sure the bulb works!

Hope that helps.