Load sensing valve

Jason · Jun 30, 2009

Hey guys,

You could write what I know about brakes/ABS on the back of a stamp with a texta, hence my question

Can someone explain how the load sensing valve attached to the rear diff works, does it need to be calibrated/adjusted if the suspension is moved/changed? I notice it is attached with elongated holes giving it a fair bit of adjustment, just think it's set wrong after my lift. Sometimes when hitting the skids it feels like the rear brakes may be coming on late?? Everything is tight in the rear this is all I can think of.

Thanks.

tommy222220_0 · Jun 30, 2009

Jason said:
Can someone explain how the load sensing valve attached to the rear diff works, does it need to be calibrated/adjusted if the suspension is moved/changed?

Ok, the load sensing valve does need adjusting after a suspension lift, by precisely the amount you have lifted it. Works by sensing how much load (how much the springs have sagged under the weight) and automatically adjusts the brake bias. (front to rear)

See: http://users.on.net/~aschulze/ZD30/ZD30 Y61 Reference Document - Colour.pdf
for a detailed write up (~9mb)

tweak'e · Jun 30, 2009

patrol setup is slightly different. normally you just raise the bracket on the diff by the amount of lift you have done. problem with the D22 is the handbrake cable goes over the bracket. you would have to somehow make the bracket bolt on and not foul the handbrake cable.

Jason · Jun 30, 2009

When you buy lift kits I dont think you get a bracket for the LSV with any of the suppliers, so what are people doing? Just leaving them as is perhaps?

In the manual for the Nav I have found the section that deals with setting it up, it mentions that you need to adjust it to make the spring length 158.1mm then put pressure guages on front and rear brakes and set the pressures up again. The angle will change but I might just adjust it until the spring length is as above?

tweak'e · Jun 30, 2009

by memory the adjuster is on max as per default.

usually just leave it but its been one of those naging problems i would like to fix.

Jason · Jun 30, 2009

Yeah if I didn't 'feel' the problem intermittently in the rear end when I put the brakes on I probably wouldn't worry about it. Keen to get it sorted.

My initial EFS lift was about 2" in the rear, it has now settled a bit so even if it was adjusted at time of lift it would be out again by now anyway.

tweak'e · Jun 30, 2009

the problem i usually get (have it at the mo) is pedal is soft when unloaded (not much rear brakes) but goes hard (lots of rear brakes) when you put load on (rear end goes down) but it stays hard even after load is removed.

nikos · Jul 7, 2009

what sort of angle is everyone's spring sitting at? I have a 50mm lift and the spring sits at about 100degrees to the LSV. I'm not noticing any problem with rear brakes. My (very limited) understanding is that as stock the spring will sit at about 90 degrees. I looked at mine the other day put was put off doing any thing when I saw the handbrake cable in the way.

Jason · Jul 7, 2009

I have moved the mounting bolts on mine from the original position (prior to lift) to about halfway from fully slackened off. Appears much better now.

tweak'e · Jul 7, 2009

just been bashing around an idea for a fix.
instead of increasing the height of the bracket on the axle, extend the arm on the valve directly down (ie at right angles to the ground). also extending the original arm length (ie at the same angle as the original arm) would decrease the amount of movement of the arm. handy if you now have more travel so the valve works over the whole travel range not just part of it.

now to put theory into practice.......

Al · Jul 7, 2009

the LSV is something i didn't even consider. I'll to the fix after you guys work out the best way. thanks

tweak'e · Jul 9, 2009

todays quick effort. prototype no1
photos speak for themselves. extended the arm by 2" and angled down woulds. could have cut a slot to make it adjustable but seams ok so far.
had to turn the spring upside down as it fouled my notch (not quiet big enough).
readjusted main adjustment. a bit of trail and error. simply jumped on the brakes on gravel road and adjusted it till the rears no longer locked up.
so far seams to be working a lot better, gave it a test run delivering a silage bale.

Jason · Jul 9, 2009

Good effort tweak'e, the 'feeling' I had in the back hasn't resurfaced since I adjusted mine, I'm going to leave it like it is until I get a chance to knock up something like yours.

tweak'e · Jul 15, 2009

an update.

so far so good. brakes feel good unloaded and also when fully loaded.
the main thing is that the rears don't lock up under heavybraking when unloaded.

Al · Jul 15, 2009

now you just have to make one for everyone here

gazza414 · Feb 18, 2013

Just thought I'd add some life to this thread as from what I have read the issue of adjustment and position is still unresloved ?

ZORDO · Feb 18, 2013

I just slide the bracket backwards 10mm
Cheers

gazza414 · Feb 18, 2013

Is that for how much lift ?

gazza414 · Feb 24, 2013

Bump Zordo ?

ZORDO · Feb 24, 2013

For your avaerage 2" lift.
I just slide the bkt backward 10mm. you could even go to 15mm if you wanted.
Cheers

Load sensing valve

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

Member

Member

Moderator

Member

Moderator

Member

Moderator

Member

Member

Moderator

LURKER

Moderator

Attachments

Member

Moderator

LURKER

Member

2014 muster Sponsor

Member

Member

2014 muster Sponsor

Similar threads

Join the conversation!

Join today and get all the highlights of this community direct to your inbox. It's FREE!