Load sensing valve
- Thread starter Jason
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just test it yourself. find a gravel road and jump on the brakes. fronts should lock up but not the rears. adjust till that happens.
Have a think abit more about what you just advised.
Thanks Zordo..when you say backwards..are you referring to the rear of the vehicle ? ie less preload tension in the spring ?
why?
Bump Zordo
maybe theres some differences in the years but i remember mine being back as far as it goes in stock form.
remind me to look at this tomorrow but i think you guys have it back woulds.
when the ute rear lifts the spring tension is reduced which reduces rear braking.
the big problem, especially with big lifts, is that the valve arm is higher than the axle. so under brakes the rear lifts and the valve supplies more braking rather than reducing braking. which is course is opposite to how its meant to work.
at the end of the day whatever adjustment you do, go test it. the valve is there to stop the rears from locking up when you don't have load on the ute.
when the ute rear lifts the spring tension is reduced which reduces rear braking.
the big problem, especially with big lifts, is that the valve arm is higher than the axle. so under brakes the rear lifts and the valve supplies more braking rather than reducing braking. which is course is opposite to how its meant to work.
at the end of the day whatever adjustment you do, go test it. the valve is there to stop the rears from locking up when you don't have load on the ute.
rabbit-chop
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Correct me if im wrong, but to increase the rear bias you need MORE tension on the spring, yeah? Which means sliding the little bracket on the axle tube FORWARDS?
Finally got around to doing mine, 8yo sagged OME springs, pushed the little bracket forward as far as it goes.
With near full load iv still got about 5mm forward movement on the LSV if i push it with my finger. Does that sound roughly right?
Finally got around to doing mine, 8yo sagged OME springs, pushed the little bracket forward as far as it goes.
With near full load iv still got about 5mm forward movement on the LSV if i push it with my finger. Does that sound roughly right?
LJ.Abroad
Member
Im a little confused, shouldnt the back brakes lock when the front do? In terms of safety, the back brakes should lock the same if not before the front?
Nice work on the bracket, looks good.
Think of panic braking on a long sweeping corner. Front brakes lock first and steering control is lost, and the vehicle will understeer (stable condition) off the bend and if a collision occurs, the front of the vehicle will go first. That puts the front crumple zone between the occupants and the impact reducing decceleration to a safer level, makes the airbags effective, etc. If no collision occurs, and the driver lifts off the brakes and reduces steering angle to something reasonable, the vehicle can potentially be recovered from the loss of control relatively easily.
Now if the rears lock first the vehicle will oversteer (unstable condition) and present the side or rear of the vehicle to any obstacle, where there is limited intrusion protection, limited crumple zone, less effective airbags (if any), potential for rollover, etc.
And the vehicle can't be recovered from a well developed spin, as any number of Commodores wrapped around telegraph poles can vouch for.
as above.
understeer is more easily controlled than oversteer.
you want the back brakes to do a bit of braking which helps keep it under control but not enough that it locks up and causes it to go out of control.
don't forget most if not almost all braking is done by the front brakes.
i used to have an old toyota car that had big front brakes from another car and worn rear brakes. jump on the brakes and the rear would spin out.
understeer is more easily controlled than oversteer.
you want the back brakes to do a bit of braking which helps keep it under control but not enough that it locks up and causes it to go out of control.
don't forget most if not almost all braking is done by the front brakes.
i used to have an old toyota car that had big front brakes from another car and worn rear brakes. jump on the brakes and the rear would spin out.
Just reviving this thread.
I modified my load sensing valve today. I used a 50mm x 80mm x 3mm plate. Drilled x4 8mm holes at 25mm centers. Painted it black and bolted it in. Then adjust so the spring is 158mm as per the manual. I then spaced up the ABS sensor wire bracket for extra clearance.
Stock position after 3" lift
New plate and bolts
ABS bracket spacers
Finished product. Now back to standard position.
I modified my load sensing valve today. I used a 50mm x 80mm x 3mm plate. Drilled x4 8mm holes at 25mm centers. Painted it black and bolted it in. Then adjust so the spring is 158mm as per the manual. I then spaced up the ABS sensor wire bracket for extra clearance.
Stock position after 3" lift
New plate and bolts
ABS bracket spacers
Finished product. Now back to standard position.
Last edited:
Hi all. Can anyone out there with a stock hight D22 check and see where the arm is positioned on the load sensing valve on the rear diff. If you push or pull the leaver on the valve is it more to the rear or more to the front of the car. (Which way dose it move the most). Mine at the moment is all the way to the front of the car with about 5mm more travel to go till it hits the stop. That's as per manual. I'm not sure if its rite so if anyone could have a look at theirs that would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
Cheers.
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