I pressed off the abs gear, using a bearing seperator. Then removed the circlip.
Then Pressed off spacer,
I got a screwdriver and destroyed the bearing housing so all rolllers fell out which gave me a lip for seperator.
Then pressed that off.
Thats it.
Seal and backing plate pulls off by hand...
Its starting..
Question did you guys have issues with the bearing outer case?
Seems to be on tight.
Did you fellas just stick it in the vise and tap out the bearing out?
Bought bearings from Statewide Bearings, 84 Greens rd Dandynong Vic, for $60.50 inc GST a side and they will now be stocking...
Still ringing around, just rang another diff joint in geelong. "Its an actual prick of a job" he said. "You need a special jig and rex gorell will only sell whole axles" pffft
"Press it off and press it back on" I said and gave him the kit no. and all.
Ill have to get back to you.
Now got it...
So here are my options.
I can get a kit from Geelong for $80 a side and $70 in Melbourne but can't park a B double next to it.
A press 20t for $275 and Do it myself all up about $435 and keep the press.
Can pull out shafts myself and have a company do for $440
Or drop off, and pickup that...
Thanks for the advise, like the idea of the slide hammer. I'll figure out what I'm doing tomorrow for definite. I'm sort of glad I don't have to touch the diff coz I don't understand until I've physically played and shown how to setup.
Hi guys.
Last night I drove my STX 08 home from work turned right and CLUNK! Got home, pulled up in the garage put stands under and shit the rear axles have a a fair bit of movement.
This is when I started searching.
I found this thread and their really isnt that many about bearing replacement...
Could it possibly be the chain is 1 link longer on the tight side and not straight.
Leave the top sprockets and chain and move the chain 1link on the bottom sprocket.
Mine rattled for a couple of minutes until oil got to it.
Did the rubber o ring when you put the primary (bottom) cover fall out? There are 2 a black and a orange one.
What I mean is its the seal for the oil to pump to the top.
No worries, I'm a big fan of giving stuff a crack, especially when it costs a mint to do. (Cost is in the labor) And if you have a bit of an idea, can research and have the time it's really not a hard job, just very time consuming.
Stripped it down again to re-goop leaky spot around one of the bolt hols on the primary timing cover.
Left radiator in, coolant and oil in. it is possible to do, but space is bit more limited to do the conversion/ changeover of timing chain. what I did get is a 75nm and 120deg turn on the crank...