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Its been a few months since I last have an update on this. I found that the ticking noise I was getting after the oil change went away after about a tank full of fuel, so about 650k's... The noise never surfaced again until today after another oil change... I am guessing it's just a bit noisier...

Yes I agree, the ryco oil filters are good too and have the non return valve. Previous to my timing chains being replaced I had used either genuine or ryco filters. When the tensioners were at their noisiest before they were replaced was actually when I had a genuine filter on. The engine was...

I have kept an eye on it over the last couple days and the ticking has returned but is louder during some drives than others. Definitely not timing chain noise as I have been there and done that, and the timing chain was replaced about 10,000k's ago. The noise is from near the top of the motor...

Yep, I have been using 10w-40 each time... I drove around a bit today and the noise didn't surface, will keep an ear out for it over the next few days and report back...

Hey Jonney, yeah, always penrite oil and a genuine nissan filter...

Hi Hodge, I know this is an old thread but I have the exact scenario as you describe in the original post. Changed the oil and filter 2 days ago, now that random ticking noise had started. Just wondering did you ever find the culprit?

Yep, same on my 09 d22. Belts get noisy on cold starts and the yd25 motor in general is a noisy one at times I have found. The belts, pulleys and injectors all make a bit of noise in unison when cold and make the engine sound rattly. I have explored the noises alot and like the others have found...

I'm curious about the fact that it was the top dual row chain that broke... I thought it was usually the bottom single row chain that breaks? That's the one that gets upgraded to double row while the top one gets left standard isn't it? Just wondering why then it was the top one that broke...

You could try a metal scrapyard or metal recycling place. I went to a local scrapyard and they had heaps of lengths of 60 x 60 x 10mm angle lying around and they were happy to cut me off 2 metres when I needed some to make towbar mounts... Cost me $10. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Hey mate, I've got a couple of these to put on as well on my d22. There is a couple of captive nuts in the chassis rails at the front that can be used. However the recovery hooks hole spacing does not line up. To make them fit you need a piece of angle iron to make up an adapter. I plan to do...

If it can't be taken out I was thinking a can of expanda foam could help. You could fill the wishbone with it which would encase the stone and stop it rattling, it could also then block up the holes and stop any more stones getting in. That stuff is light as air, so it shouldn't change the way...

As above, upgrading the intercooler won't give much in the way of extra power. It's just that the stock one may become a restriction in the intake once you start modding everything else. So really you're upgrading the capacity to suit the other mods and let those work unhindered by by the...

Nah, mine didn't seem to... They only went down a few mm after about a few days to a week and I haven't noticed them sag anymore since...

Yeah that's about the same as mine. Mine have settled to about 560mm at the rear (with about 80-100kg's in the tub) and 555mm at the front. Mine is obviously wound up a bit higher than yours at the front and is still a great ride. I had the stock suspension set at about 565 at the front and...

As mentioned by the other guys will need a new hose made up/crimped on. Have it vacced out and charged with gas and leak tested. Additional to that, if you've lost a significant amount of the refrigeration oil then you might have to get that topped up too. Don't want to wear out the compressor...

Yeah most auto electrician workshops on the east coast do air con work as well. Some are better than others at it though... Some guys only really know how to top up the gas and aren't great at proper fault finding and/or doing repairs on the above mentioned type of problems...

Also, I just saw in my previous post that I said it took a few hours to get the torsion bar height set. That was meant to be "a couple goes" instead of "a couple of hours"... Actually was only about half an hour of adjusting the height bolt to get it sitting right...

Cool, that would be great. I usually go from bottom of rim to highest point of the guard, only cause I find it tricky to measure from the exact centre of the rim. Also what rear springs did you go for? Medium or constant? Anyway, good luck with the install, I found it to be fairly straight...

Hey mate, Yes I used that video clip as shown above to do mine. Only thing extra I had to do which wasn't shown in the video was remove the circlips on the torsion bar holder at the rear end. Not sure if it's needed or not but mine didn't just slide out like in the video without removing the...

805mm is heaps higher than stock. As far as I know a stock one is 730mm. Mine was sitting at 715mm before lift, that was with sagged flat springs. My new leaves only lifted it to 760mm which was a bit disappointing as it's only 30mm over a stock one. The difference must be that your new springs...