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Engine stall at idle
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:26 AM
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Default Engine stall at idle

My truck has started stalling at idle. What happens is I stop at a junction / roundabout and the engine just stops. It doesnít happen every time, sometimes goes for a couple of days without stopping, sometimes it stops a few times on a trip.

It generally starts up straight away afterwards and runs OK then, but wife has said she has had problems getting it to start again today.

It starts first time in the mornings.

I have seen this problem most about 5km after starting the car as a 1 off problem on a trip, but it has happened at other times. It has been doing it for about 3-4 weeks on and off now.

Car is a 2007 D40 diesel, done about 115K. I changed the fuel filter after it did it the first time (mainly because I had one and it was due).

Iím reluctant to take it to a dealer as the problem is so intermittent. Any idea's what may be causing it?
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:32 AM
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Try cleaning the MAFS with some electrical contact cleaner.

The MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensor) is in the rear of the air pipe that heads towards the turbocharger's intake, a couple of centimetres out of the air filter box.

Do NOT damage, drop or use tools on the sensor. It measures both air flow and air temperature and costs $400+ to replace. Just spray it.

I may be developing the same problem with mine, although it hasn't done it back on the mainland - only in Tassie.

There might be some value in checking the air filter as well.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:43 AM
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Ill pick up some contact cleaner on the way home and try cleaning the MAFS. I assume something like this is safe to spray on it.

Air filter is good, replaced about 15k ago and still looks like new, blown out backwards with an air line every couple of months. I checked it last week.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:45 AM
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That should work just fine. At the worst, it'll clean the MAFS. At best, it'll also solve the problem!

Mind you, it could be something else. We haven't gone into fuel quality, intercooler/EGR leaks, fuel injectors etc. It's just that when I researched this particular problem for my own vehicle, the answer that kept cropping up was the MAFS.

Fingers crossed!
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:07 AM
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Ok I have a similar problem - nissan had 3 goes at adjusting fuel rail pressure, bull, bull.

Now idles reguarly down at 550-600rpm,

Cleaned MAF sensor - was very dirty but didn't fix.

How can I just turn up the idle higher so the car doesnt sound as if it falling apart when at the lights.

Inconsitent idle is a know problem - but my dealer is dropped on his head !

Prob going to put in a DP chip so we can turn up the idle unless someone else has any idea ?
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:05 AM
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Low engine idle (according to the manual) can be caused by:

* A leak in the air hose between the MAFS and the turbocharger. It's most likely the hose clamped to the turbocharger under the clamp itself. The manual suggests that you "listen for leaks".

* Bleed air from the fuel system. It's likely only going to happen if you've run out of fuel or changed the fuel filter recently, although overtightening the hose clamps can cause an unnoticeable leak on the suction side of the pump.

* Drain water from the fuel system. This is at the base of the fuel filter.

* Clean air filter

* Check that battery voltage is more than 12.13V

* Check engine compression

* Failing all the above, replace the fuel injectors

It doesn't say how to adjust the idle speed.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:16 AM
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I gave the MAFS a sray and took it for a run, all OK, hofully it will stay that way.

I did switch the scangauge to show inlet air temperatue, it seemed to be a lot higher than I was expecting, sitting around 38C most of the time and up to 42C by the time I got home afer a 20 min run. Outside temperature was only 25-26C. Is this normal?

Cheers
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:20 AM
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Mine shows above-ambient temps as well. The air filter box and intake piping (both before and after turbocharger & intercooler) are subjected to quite a substantial amount of heat.

I wonder if we could use that thermal wrapping on them to reduce the effect.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:42 AM
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I was assuming the inlet air temperature was from the temperature sensor in with the MAFS, which I expected to be within a couple of deg ambient. I guess there must be another sensor the other side of the intercooler.
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:53 PM
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The MAFS does measure the air inlet temp as well as flow rate. That way, the ECU knows fairly well how many molecules of air are moving past and into the engine.

There's a boost pressure sensor on the far side of the intercooler, but the intake temp is read by the MAFS. It's just so bloody hot under the bonnet that it does heat up the air a bit too much.

Plus I don't think it's 100% accurate. I figure with the temps involved, 10C or even 20C this way or that hardly makes a lot of difference.
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