02 D22 ZD30DDT No Start

[tonymite]

After 2 days in garage my dad's 02 D22 ZD30DDT No Start.

It use to have symptoms of (difficult starts on cold mornings) and dad would kick start her in Reverse.

Tried usual suspects - getting fuel to return pipes but won't come out of injector outlets

until...

we severed fuel pump solenoid wires from (pump ECU) and sent spill valve 12V

Looked at earthing, looked at Pump ECM wiring and Fuel Shut OFF ( should there NOT be a constant reading of 10V and only display 12V upon switching motor off for 3 sec.? ?? )

http://www.justanswer.com/heavy-equ...-bird-bus-with-isb-cummins-24-valve-vp44.html

checked:

http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...hsUDQMstQzcCkzp0jgx8QPg&bvm=bv.50768961,d.dGI

also

http://www.remmington.info/testproceed.html

http://www.aecs.net/techniek2009/nogonissan.pdf





Checked Crank(shaft) Sensor CKPS for resistance ( as per Nissan Workshop Repair manual) and for Voltages as you would Hall Effect Sensor





ECM Codes flashed the following:

0401 ? ( doesn't exist n ZD30 Reference Doc.)
0402
0403
0407

0505 ( doesn't exist n ZD30 Reference Doc.)
0604 ( doesn't exist n ZD30 Reference Doc.)

0703
0707
0905

After clearing only showed:

0505

and can not get codes to flash again (because engine won't start perhaps?)

My correspondance with Pete at ECU-talk:

ME: will ECU Talk give me parameters/ realtime analasys of sensors such as spill valve/timing valve on diesel fuel pump, pump ECU, Crank/cam angle sensor, engine ECM, oil pressure switches?? etc - she won't start and have used diagnostic codes via bridging pins 1-8 as per ZD30 Reference doc.

PETE: Please see this page for list of sensors supporter on the different common diesel engines:

http://www.ecutalk.com/diesel.aspx

ECUTalk LCD doesnt show many of the 'switches' sensors, but things like the spill valve, barometer, VNT solenoid value, injector control valve are shown.

I believe I have exhausted all possibilities ... feel free to prove me wrong.

Cheers,
Tony

 

[tonymite]

bump... ??

 

[scottybobcat]

Do you have fuel to the injectors or only the pump. If its only to the pump it will probably be the fuel solenoid to the pump. Pull it out and remove the needle and seat and see if you get fuel to it then. If you do you will have to stall the car to stop it and be careful as you will be able to start it without ignition on too. Maybe your ECU has shit itself. Get onto Niss4x4 in Brooklyn in Victoria and get a price on a second hand ECU and try that maybe. Have you checked your engine management and fuel fuses and relays

 

[tonymite]

getting fuel to the pump "only" not to through the injector outlets - unless:


once we severed wires from between pump ECU & spill valve (solenoid?) and sent the spill valve 12V direct from battery and cranked her over - THEN she pumped fuel out of the injector outlets.

Again today tested Crank(shaft) Sensor CKPS for resistance ( as per Nissan Workshop Repair manual) and Continuity between Crank(shaft) Sensor CKPS and ECM ( main ECM under heater controls in cabin).

Is there a way to remove and re-fit fuel solenoid to the pump without removing pump? (We talking about spill valve- right?)

RE: reference to ECU - you mean the Bosch PSG5/16 on the pump itself?) I don't know of anyone who sells that on its own - they are available new incl spill & timing solenoids. Again - how would one replace it without removing the pump? Then there's re-calibrating costs more than re-co pump ...

Yes - Have you checked your engine management and fuel fuses and relays.

 

[tonymite]

could it be anything other than fuel pump related?

 

[Old.Tony]

Welcome to the forum, Tony.

You not only have to get the fuel to the injector, but the injector has to open at the right time. The timing depends on the CAS being positioned correctly and the ECU sending the signals (and the signals reaching the injectors).

Cold starts are inhibited by faulty glow plugs, and it sounds like they're not working properly either. There might be an easy solution to the whole problem, so we'll try that before going any further with other possibilities.

First, grab a good 700+CCA battery and use it in the vehicle instead of this one. Make sure the battery terminals are clean (clamps too).

Now, follow the negative lead to where it connects to the motor and REMOVE it. Clean it thoroughly, and reinstall it. This has been the source of many an erratic problem in the past and might be yours too (glow plug operation as well).

Let us know how you go!

 

[tonymite]

Tested Glow Plug "System" and getting voltage to the plugs eliminating signal path incl. Relays. Measured the front plug (#1?) On its own and gave no resistance - while the other 3 glow plugs connected mutually via connection bracket read 1 Ohm in (in parallel).

Also tried heating intake plenum infront of throttle butterfly with heat gun and attempting to crank with no avail.

Will try sending spill valve direct 12v from battery & try to crank - as last time injector outlets-to-nozel had been disconnected.

Keep you posted... if any ideas come up... do tell...

Cheers!

 

[Old.Tony]

Even with 1 glow plug down the car should at least splutter, if not come awkwardly to life.

We sure get some different problems in here!

 

[tonymite]

Been rather busy and finally (dad) got a chance to remove and test glow plugs - 3/4 of which were apparently not working. Replaced the lot of them and STILL no go. Last thing to try now that everything's been put together is to try sending 12V directly to the spill valve while rest (pump/fuel lines/looms/connectors) has been put back together/re-connected.

If this fails - I guess it's time to remove the pump? ?? OR is it still worth purchasing ECUTalk (OBD-USB cable) OR -towing it to Nissan?

Here's what Peter at ECUTalk had to say:

ME: will ECU Talk give me parameters/ realtime analasys of sensors such as spill valve/timing valve on diesel fuel pump, pump ECU, Crank/cam angle sensor, engine ECM, oil pressure switches?? etc - she won't start and have used diagnostic codes via bridging pins 1-8 as per ZD30 Reference doc.


PETER: Please see this page for list of sensors supporter on the different common diesel engines:

http://www.ecutalk.com/diesel.aspx

ECUTalk LCD doesnt show many of the 'switches' sensors, but things like the spill valve, barometer, VNT solenoid value, injector control valve are shown.

I'd say it's pretty much impossible to find spill valve solenoid on its own to replace (can this be replaced without removing the pump off of the vehicle?) and sometimes, the output transistors (I'm guessing to the spill & timing solenoids) burn out which can only be looked at if pump's been removed - or other times I hear of circuit boars cracking= new/2nd hand pump.(?)

Pepe Le Pew: yes...? ?? ... no ... ??

 

[tonymite]

just tried sending 12V directly (in manual pulses as the thin wire we used is starting to get hot) to the spill (solenoid) valve and YEP! the motor is showing signs ofwanting to start - coughing and splattering etc...

Now for the tedious task of pump removal so we an check if it's the output transistor to the spill valve that's blown in the ECU...

Any advice on 1st time removal?

 

[Rockape]

How did this pan out ?