130 KW mod

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NavaraNoob

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standard D22 kW is around 98 at the flywheel. Keep that in mind. I added a 3" exhaust with 3" dump pipe, a high flow filter and a SPT chip. This gave me a gain in kW to 106. I blocked the EGR, this resulted in heaps more air being sucked down the snorkel and I can hear the turbo and air through the snorkel, it's noticeable, and not an unpleasant sound! However I did not notice any power increase from blocking the EGR, seems to me the engine was getting more fresh air but it may have needed more fuel to generate more power? Anyway I did not adjust the chip to test my theory.

Last week I ditched the chip, and had the ecu remapped to suit my mods. BOOM !!!!! Golden chalice. kW jumped to 130 and I have 6 more kW available from idle. The engine now pulls solidly all the way to redline, not that I rev out much above 3000 but it's there if I want it. Before the remap the chip would give a real boost at around 2250 but the power band was very narrow and at around 3000 it would continue to rev but with no real increase in power.

So in answer to the myriad of questions in regard to exhausts, chips etc, the answer is, forget the chip, spend roughly the same on a custom ecu map and get real, and safe power increases. My D22 now drives like a D40!!:redcool:
 
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standard D22 kW is around 98 at the flywheel. Keep that in mind. I added a 3" exhaust with 3" dump pipe, a high flow filter and a SPT chip. This gave me a gain in kW to 106. I blocked the EGR, this resulted in heaps more air being sucked down the snorkel and I can hear the turbo and air through the snorkel, it's noticeable, and not an unpleasant sound! However I did not notice any power increase from blocking the EGR, seems to me the engine was getting more fresh air but it may have needed more fuel to generate more power? Anyway I did not adjust the chip to test my theory.

Last week I ditched the chip, and had the ecu remapped to suit my mods. BOOM !!!!! Golden chalice. kW jumped to 130 and I have 600 more kW available from idle. The engine now pulls solidly all the way to redline, not that I rev out much above 3000 but it's there if I want it. Before the remap the chip would give a real boost at around 2250 but the power band was very narrow and at around 3000 it would continue to rev but with no real increase in power.

So in answer to the myriad of questions in regard to exhausts, chips etc, the answer is, forget the chip, spend roughly the same on a custom ecu map and get real, and safe power increases. My D22 now drives like a D40!!:redcool:

so you went from 98 flywheel kw to 106 rear wheel kw?

600 more kW available from idle, this part is confusing?
 
My mistake, 6kw increase from idle, fat finger, I have amended the original post. And I have 105 kW at wheels (dyno) which by my calculations equates to 130 at the flywheel... Give or take. Thanks
 
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Horse Power Factory Dandenong. Cost $1,195.00 and is customised to suit every vehicle. You get really good feedback and an explanation as to what the dyno results really mean. I was very impressed with their service, and the set up out there has to be seen to be believed. Matt is the man to talk to. Results are streets ahead of what a chip can deliver and you have the added benefit of the onboard computer sending the message directly to components rather than a chip slotting in after the computer and changing the signal.
 
Just read the info on there website. IM in Melbourne and was looking at a chip but i might call these guys for my d40 �� Thanks for this usefull info dude
 
Just read the info on there website. IM in Melbourne and was looking at a chip but i might call these guys for my d40 �� Thanks for this usefull info dude

These guys will give you an honest opinion on what you can expect, I guarantee it will be safer, and outperform a chip.
 
My last dyno tune shows 119kws at the wheels. Given the loss of approximately 33% through drive line my flywheel kw is just under 160kws.
2012 d22 standard turbo, timing advanced original Chipit Chip EGR block and 19psi boost, also 2.75 Beaudesert exhaust and dump.
Cheers
 
It would be interesting to see what mine is putting out then.
Running a chip tuning chip, 18 psi, beaudesert exhaust, ARE intercooler and egr is blocked.
Remember boys nothing is official on here till the dyno sheet is up haha.
Anyone know of a decent dyno tuner in the sydney/newcastle area?
 
Yours will be similar advance the timing and correct the air fuel ratio's stock runs lean, your steel wheels and 32's will slow it a tad also.
 
How is the timing advanced. I get it on a petrol but not on a diesel how it's done. Cheers
 
Some chips can do it, either that or editing the ecu. Before common rail you had adjustment on the injector pump itself, but nowadays it's all computerised...
 
My last dyno tune shows 119kws at the wheels. Given the loss of approximately 33% through drive line my flywheel kw is just under 160kws.
2012 d22 standard turbo, timing advanced original Chipit Chip EGR block and 19psi boost, also 2.75 Beaudesert exhaust and dump.
Cheers

ImpressI've numbers, be mindful that no two dynos read the same and the conversion between wheels and flywheel is around 20 to 25%, however if you were to add in the dyno anomaly it could be as high as 33%.

Any black smoke with your mods? And I'm interested to know how you measure, or adjust boost, as it sounds like this has played a big part in your power output. You might try converting your air intake to high flow as well you will no doubt squeeze out a bit more HP.
 
Hi mate, The boost is measured when on the dyno via a tee piece fitted next to the manual boost controller via the wastegate port. He also plumbs into your intercooler hose with another measurement taken there. I do get some smoke if laboured in to tall a gear this is just unburned fuel. At full acceleration nothing at all. Yes this dyno has a loss of about 33% on 32's so I'm told. We have slightly backed the tune off a bit since then as it was a bit harsh.

Good job on yours getting those figures on standard boost and I guess the reflash has left your fuel rail pressure normal, so it should be nice and safe. I have a bit better induction than standard with a td 42 snorkel adaptor old mate tells me once you fit a larger air box issues arise with the maf sensor getting abnormal readings. So I am not touching a thing if it aint broke don't fix it.
Cheers
 
You can run a bigger airbox just make sure the MAF sensor is sitting in 2.5" piping. I went to a 3" intake pipe and lost down low power. Engine would take its time to spool the turbo due to the AFR's being way out, its fine if not better boost comes on but IMO not worth it. Yes I can correct it with a digital voltage modifier as the patrol boys have done but its a lot of stuffing around for little gain.
 
Now that makes sense, are you going to persist and get it right?, or can it be bypassed easily surely the midrange would benefit from a larger gobfull of air.
 
I've put the units together but I haven't integrated them into the MAF sensor wiring yet. I may look at it down the track if I need more power
 

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