2.5 Litre EGR Mod

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managed to source a bit of mild steel, took everything apart, traced gasket, cut to size, all the while thinking this seems pretty thick, sure enough 3mm is too thick!!!!

Put it all back together, now off to find some 1.6mm stainless....
 
managed to source a bit of mild steel, took everything apart, traced gasket, cut to size, all the while thinking this seems pretty thick, sure enough 3mm is too thick!!!!

Put it all back together, now off to find some 1.6mm stainless....

Come around to my place tonight, I have some 1.2mm S.S, a pedastal drill and a linisher, shouldn't take anymore than 20mins to do.
 
Thanks Jase, for your help, and all who have posted info, pics and instructions on this topic.
I'd agree re the power gain, minor, but noticable. Will report on economy in time.
 
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Maybe check that the blanking plate has sealed cleanly against the EGR tube and the exhaust manifold.

A high pitch whistle could be caused from a small amount of pressurised air escaping through the blanking plate

I just blocked mine off as well and now I'm getting a similar high pitch squeal. I blocked it off at the manifold end but the squealing is coming from the EGR valve end......:suicide2:
 
Did mine last weekend.
20mins. and did it in me jim jams sat morning. Used an old street sign 2mm thick.
Gotta say.......Pfffft no difference. Turbo spools at 2100 rpm like it did previously and if there is a gain at all it is not in any way noticeable.
Time will tell in terms of fuel economy....marginal I'm thinking
 
Ok, I think I found the issue. I was using 3.8 mm and it was too thick. Not sealing the otherside correctly. Using 1.6mm and seems to be working fine so far.
 
Did mine last weekend.
20mins. and did it in me jim jams sat morning. Used an old street sign 2mm thick.
Gotta say.......Pfffft no difference. Turbo spools at 2100 rpm like it did previously and if there is a gain at all it is not in any way noticeable.
Time will tell in terms of fuel economy....marginal I'm thinking




Aaaah, but there is a big gain...

your intake system from EGR to Cyl head wont fill up with that god awful sludge.
 
i did my egr plate a while back and i received a crack in the exhaust manifold and had my car towed to a dealer and all fixed under warranty. while waiting for the tow truck i thought it would be a good idea to remove the blocking plate before the ute is sent to nissan, in the interests of them knocking back a claim.
anyway, now i have noticed a loss of power since having the ute back and more smoke being produced, just wondering though if
a, did the blocking contribute to the crack in the exhaust manifold,
b,what if i put it back could i be exposed to another exhaust manifold issue
c, should i put it back because of this noticeable power decrease.
 
I don't understand why u got exhaust manifold crack. I've had mine in for a while bow and no issues. I'd put it back in cause of power loss.
 
me either its still a mystery, was just wodering on this thread if there was some co-relation with the egr plate and the exhaust, whether the exhaust gases and associated high temps not being returned to the engine would have caused it.
 
Hello gents,

Just wondering if anybody knows how the EGR valve operates is it electronic?
As in what tells the valve to open/close ?

Cheers
Tim
 
egr valve is electronic and fully ecu controlled. main sensor responsible is MAF. ie matching EGR to air flow.
 
What happens if the EGR valve is disconnected? Does it stay open or closed?

May be an electronic way to control the valve via a switch?
Close or open it when you want to???

Or is this just antoher crazy idea?
 
egr valve is not an open/close type like on older engines. the valve is variable driven by an electric motor. unplugging it brings up fault codes and would leave the valve in whatever position it was last.
 
would be keen for one of these blanking plates if anybody or MATT has any spare, how will I get a hold of one?am new to this site, cheers Raw
 
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