2013 D40 6 speed manual towing

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mvpd001

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Howdy all,

Anyone have any experience towing with a D40 manual? I have just purchased a 20'6 caravan with an ATM of 3000kg.

I reckon the max weight we'll be towing will be around 2800kg, I'm a bit concerned about burning out the clutch. I think the car has enough power ( I have a 3" exhaust from the turbo back and an I drive fitted) but I'm
worried about the clutch.

Thanks,
 
First gear in the manuals is a little "tall", and with heavy loads (large caravans, boats) you will tend to feather/ride the clutch a little more than usual.

Single mass flywheels shouldn't be a problem - they can take a fair bit of heat before causing the clutch face to start glazing. You'd have to be riding the clutch to excess with a single mass flywheel in order to cause it damage. Dual mass flywheels on the other hand are a different story.

I don't remember if the 2013 cars had a dual mass flywheel or not. These were fitted to the 4-banger diesels in order to make the car feel smoother, because there's a reasonable amount of rotational speed variation as cylinders reach TDC and start combustion, and a dual-mass flywheel absorbs this from the driveline making the car seem smoother.

The problem is the face of the flywheel where the clutch makes contact is much thinner (than the single-mass counterpart) and can only absorb a certain amount of heat. Owners of boats particularly (because of the boat ramp's steep angle) found the lifespan of the clutch could be as low as 30,000km.

Now generally (personally speaking) you don't get a LOT of steep inclines where you have to feather/ride the clutch when you're towing a large caravan. Most caravan parks are fairly level (a couple of notable exceptions like Buladelah or Lakeview at Broken Hill).

However, there's a solution that doesn't cost TOO much (this is even if you have a dual mass flywheel - with a single mass, don't sweat it). Quite a number of people on this forum have opted for an Exedy HD clutch and single mass flywheel. It's a good idea to replace the pressure plate at the same time in case the springs are affected by heat.

I don't know how to determine if yours has a DMF or not, apart from either asking Nissan (they can look up the part number for the flywheel from your VIN and tell you) or having a gander inside. Dual mass flywheels have two halves, one connected to the output of the engine and one that the clutch sits against. In between are a series of springs that allow some forward-and-backward motion which absorbs the vibration.

 
My July 2012 RX (thus Thai-built) has the first of the factory-suppled SMF clutches - one of the reasons I bought it. No problems with use - now 260,000 km, and high loads occasionally.
Son's 2012 ST Spain-built has the DMF - he always whinges when he drives mine....
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

Old Tony, my Nav has a DMF, I've had a quote to replace it with a heavy duty SMF, it was about 2k with a brake upgrade also which is about $750, I reckon that probably reasonable but I'm a bit worried that I might get some vibrations through the gearbox. I also had a quote to install a heavy duty DMF that was a bit pricier at about 3k.
Has anyone had any experience replacing their SMF to a DMF? if so any vibration issues?

My Nav has just clicked over 100,000kms and I've heard the clutch has a tendency to go kaput.....
 
Oh there's no doubt you'll get some additional vibration, but it's a comfort-level thing at this point. The DMF absorbs those irregularities in rotation so that your ute feels even more like a normal sedan (which is part of the reason why utes are becoming so popular). You will notice the SMF, but it will be one of those "background" vibrations that you'll get used to.

If you don't ride the clutch a lot, there's no reason why your clutch will suffer. Heat is the killer and it's created by riding the clutch.

There have been a couple of reports over the years of the DMFs having a broken spring in them - this will also cause some additional vibration - but generally the complaints have been about clutches wearing prematurely when subjected to loads, and the solution has always been moving to single mass.

Welcome to the towing club! We're leaving today for Bathurst, I'm working in pit lane at the Bathurst 6 Hour this coming weekend and might not be online as much.

IMG_9870_1024x683.jpg
 
Has anyone had any experience replacing their SMF to a DMF? if so any vibration issues?
Never replaced but my D40 came stock with a SMF flywheel and I have driven a DMF D40 back to back. The SMF vehicle (mine) has slightly more vibes around 1700~1750 rpm. The is a slightly more roll over noise from the gearbox. (Like sitting there idling in neutral) Otherwise once underway you wont pick it.
 
I replaced my DMF with SMF. Initially I could tell there was a little more vibration but after a few drives it feels normal and not noticeable.

I’ve only towed a caravan a couple of short trips, but aside from the mentioned slow to get going it was fine. My drivetrain is stock except for clutch. As old Tony says, first gear is a little tall. Everything is fine once your turbo kicks in, but below turbo revs you need a lot of patience or a few extra revs and clutch slip.
 
One thing, not obvious at first thought, is that the torque output from the engine is unaffected by what you are towing.

So in a nutshell, you should never need a heavy duty clutch unless you increase the engine torque.

Saying that, if you intend slipping the clutch, you will damage a heavy duty clutch just as easily as a normal one.
 
Also worth noting the 5th and 6th are the weakest gears in the drivetrain so you should probably avoid towing under load in the top two gears, change down when using high torque, like uphill etc.
 
I would of thought 5th is the strongest gear. It's 1:1, everything is rolling over together. Sure don't tackle a hill with it but towing on the flat I would stick to fifth and avoid 6th (an overdrive) Easier on the box and the engine to for that matter. Engine will be spinning over faster though so probably not so fuel saving.
 
the whole "don't tow in top gear" thing is pretty much BS these days.
sure many many years ago the top gear was an addon on the side which made it weak. these days its part of the main gearing.
you simply don't see people wearing out top gear these days. gearbox failures are typically due to other design issues and they fail regardless.
 
Thanks all for your wisdom, definitely some food for thought there, I'll have a crack at towing it and at the end of the day If I'm not comfortable towing with it I'll get another tow rig. The wife's car will need to be traded as I'm keeping my Nav for my camping adventures.
 
Now had a couple of hours worth of towing 2.6ish tonne caravan. No major dramas. I wasn’t pushing hard, but keeping speed up was fine, just worked the gearbox to keep the engine happy. If anyone knows The Buckets way, it wasn’t fun trying to get a quick start to turn right back onto the pacific hwy. was pretty busy and turning across two lanes barrelling down at 100km/h with a long heavy rig wasn’t fun.

Only trouble was on leaving the campground. Fairly steep gravel road with erosion humps the size of typical speed humps in a carpark. Was in first gear and slowed for a group of pedestrians, including kids. Engine got off the boil and I slowed to a stall. Couldn’t get it going again in 1st. Switched to 4-Lo and up we went.

Do I prefer our Auto pathfinder? Yes, will I hesitate to tow with theD40 again? Not if necessary.
 
Thanks GunMentalGrey, interesting reading. I reckon an auto will be preferable also.
 
TBH the only time that the manual was worse was when starting off from stopped on an incline or needing a quick start. Once into second gear it wasn’t much different to driving an auto or without a trailer.
 
We chose an auto because we intended to do more towing than not. It's paid off, but I've also learned not to take the car to a small time operator for servicing.

The Bucketts Way where it joins the Pacific Hwy is bloody stupid now. The highway is getting busier, and traffic coming down the hill (travelling north) is accelerating because they can smell the 110km/h zone ahead and they're already past the coppers who sit in the grass at Twelve Mile Ck Rest Area.

There's a U-turn bay just 1km to the north, if that makes it easier. I strongly doubt they'll try to make the intersection any better, unlike Medowie Rd there's just not enough traffic coming out of Bucketts Way to justify spending millions on an overpass with a feeder ramp.

An alternative is to go through Clarence Town and come out at Raymond Terrace. If you go over the Williams River Bridge (Seaham St), go east through the roundabout and take the next left (McDonalds will be on the right). Take the next roundabout to the right (Richardson Rd) and as you're heading over the crest and through the small roundabout (Caltex will then be on your right) you'll see the overpass ahead, turn RIGHT at the big roundabout under the overpass to be on the feeder ramp for the highway. This is slightly less stressful when towing than turning right at McDonalds and trying to get around the roundabout at Heatherbrae with the eager beavers heading north coming in at a great pace, and the dickheads coming out of Raymond Terrace trying to turn right from a left/straight-only lane.

When I'm faced with a steep incline on a loose surface (and I have the option to stop at the top or just past it) I'll use 4LO. Saves the engine and the drive train. And judging by the condition the timing chain is in (the mechanic thought I'd put a kit in not long before he got the car!) I'd say I'm probably doing something right!
 
Reversing boat into tight space and feathered clutch for too long. Felt soft afterwards for a while, burnt smell, and shuddering on clutch release between gear change. Didn’t drive it any further parked up in garage! I presume safe to drive to repair shop for diagnostics? Thai built 2010 D40 ST 4x4 (95000 only on the clock, owned since new). Now wondering if 4Low would not have been a better option?
From forum appear exedy singlemass clutch way to go?
 
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