Bow shackles when should they be replaced?

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Malicious

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The question is when should bow shackles be thrown away?
After how many stressful recoveries or visible damage to the outside?
Hopefully they don't fail but I can happen, when I was comms rigging if a shackle was dropped from height it was dropped in the bin.
For me I now work in an industry where I can X-ray them in 3D to check for stress .
Have done some google searching but no real answer besides if they have been stressed
 
Mate it sounds like you have allot more experience then me with shackles and i cant give you a definitive answer, but i would just be going off visible signs of stress or distortion.
The chances of them being dropped from a major height onto a hard surface like would happen in a high rise situation would be very rare so prob rule out tossing them in the bin from being dropped out of the back of the ute.
 
Id have to agree nath, unless your snatching with them (which you shouldnt) i wouldnt be too concerned as long as you have bought good quality in the first place, if i came across one i couldnt undo due to distorion then i would probably throw it out but otherthen that i dont see an issue with long duration of use.
My old man has large shackles in his shed that are atleast 10-12 years old and still uses them with n problems.
in saying that if you have a 3D scanner available then your doing ok to check.
 
I've witnessed a couple let go during winch use in comp stuff , yeah most use should be fine , as for snatching i use them for that purpose but then I tend to not snatch like I've seen others do it ,
Also I suppose most guys here are a bit more sensible than the turkey's I saw yesterday getting their pootrol out of the sand. They had no clue and god help their recovery gear ,
 
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Id have to agree nath, unless your snatching with them (which you shouldnt)QUOTE]

SO... You shouldn't snatch with a bow shackle??? what about the hitch and bow shackles that go in your towbar for snatch recoveries? or when u put a shackle on the frontal recovery point to hold a snatch strap?
 
As much as id love to have the age old debate about snatching with shakles there are plenty of threads on here in regards to that.
 
Id have to agree nath, unless your snatching with them (which you shouldnt)QUOTE]

SO... You shouldn't snatch with a bow shackle??? what about the hitch and bow shackles that go in your towbar for snatch recoveries? or when u put a shackle on the frontal recovery point to hold a snatch strap?

I wouldnt join snatch straps together with a shackle but have no probs using the right load rated shackle on an approved point to snatch and have done so many of times.
How else will you attach the strap to both cars with out one, the option is using shackles made from Dyneema winch rope (they are actually meant to be stronger then allot of shackles)
 
shackles made from Dyneema winch rope. really?? never heard of them. Sounds like an interesting concept. may have ot do some reasearch.
And yes just to clarify i did mean joining straps, i have a snaching hitch in my own tow bar wich works wonders. i dont use one up front i have a large rated hook for that. You can join straps without using a shackle.
i just prefer if i can to get away with not using them.

Edit: I found this a good read for ayone wanting to know about soft shackles.

http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_testing_3.php
 
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As a rigger we throw them if they a distorted in any way, if they show a crack.
If the shackle has 10% wear or more.
Never use them if they are not rated.
Or if the markings(rating) can no longer be seen.
If there are signs of excessive rust.
Exposed to high heat.(welding, oxy acetylene)
Chemical attack.
We also have our gear checked and tagged regularly.
They are not really designed for high impact or shock loading.
They are however designed for loading at an angle with multiple slings for lifting.

The ideal angle is straight lift. 1:1 single leg sling.
I would encourage anyone that snatches with them to get a RATED bow shackle exceeding what ever you are pulling out.
Remember, if you are pulling out a 2t vehicle with mud up to the bottom of its doors it will no longer only be 2 t of load on it. It will be closer to double it I reckon.
The bigger the rating.
The safer you'll be.
 
That's the sort of answer I was after 10%wear or more if it looks shit then chuck it, all my shackles are 4.7t rated cause the price was right, for shit and giggles going to X-Ray one tonight
 
have you got an old one you can x-ray for us too. maybe that you have used for 20 or 30 recoverys?

I'd be interested to know if there is any internal damage
 
shackles made from Dyneema winch rope. really?? never heard of them. Sounds like an interesting concept. may have ot do some reasearch.
And yes just to clarify i did mean joining straps, i have a snaching hitch in my own tow bar wich works wonders. i dont use one up front i have a large rated hook for that. You can join straps without using a shackle.
i just prefer if i can to get away with not using them.

Edit: I found this a good read for ayone wanting to know about soft shackles.

http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_testing_3.php

have a watch of this YouTube vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3C8ZWRpUNPU&list=UU6EGgLW7ygY7YOROMF24W1A&feature=c4-overview

The same guy does "how to" vids on splicing ect very good for those who use dyneema type winch ropes
 
Don't have any old ones but here's a pic of a new one bit crap cause it was a shot of the screen rather than an export got 2.5hr drive home so didn't want to stuff around too much
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1391595920.345246.jpg

Can just about read the markings on it
 
As a rigger we throw them if they a distorted in any way, if they show a crack.
If the shackle has 10% wear or more.
Never use them if they are not rated.
Or if the markings(rating) can no longer be seen.
If there are signs of excessive rust.
Exposed to high heat.(welding, oxy acetylene)
Chemical attack.
We also have our gear checked and tagged regularly.
They are not really designed for high impact or shock loading.
They are however designed for loading at an angle with multiple slings for lifting.

The ideal angle is straight lift. 1:1 single leg sling.
I would encourage anyone that snatches with them to get a RATED bow shackle exceeding what ever you are pulling out.
Remember, if you are pulling out a 2t vehicle with mud up to the bottom of its doors it will no longer only be 2 t of load on it. It will be closer to double it I reckon.
The bigger the rating.
The safer you'll be.

I have to say you make me a believer. Sounds spot on.
 
That's all well and good (for the yanks)but, I'd like to see it pass Australian standards before I would consider using one.

Thats entirely your call Mate, but he is not selling anything and he has had them tested and they are stronger then a 4.7 tone shackle or that hook he shows in the vid.
After all he is using rope that is meant for a 12,000lb winch so the rope itself will handle close to 6000kg or 6t so if ever i get off my bum and make some i will use them for sure.
Heaps of people were sceptical of using rope over cable a few years back and look now 90% of winches come with it, and for the same diameter rope to cable the rope is allot stronger.

The good thing about those soft shackles is ,

weight,

ease of use,

you dont have to worry about dropping them,

you can see when the rope is wearing to replace them,

if they do break you wont have a solid object flying through the air and hurting any one.

Cheap and can be made on a track if you need more simply by trimming the winch rope,

If ever they did lock on they can be cut off with a knife.

BUT like i said it is totally up to the individual,
 
These are the biggest pluses i think

"if they do break you wont have a solid object flying through the air and hurting any one"
"Cheap and can be made on a track if you need more simply by trimming the winch rope"

makes them a very handy tool.
 
These are the biggest pluses i think

"if they do break you wont have a solid object flying through the air and hurting any one"
"Cheap and can be made on a track if you need more simply by trimming the winch rope"

makes them a very handy tool.

Not to mention they will FLOAT and they wont rust.
 
True, they won't come flying into the back of the car.
I've got the 12000 (5443kg) pnd rope on my winch.
It is lighter that's why I got it. Plus I know it's good shit cause in use it on my fishing gear as well. It's tough as f$&K.
I'm not saying I wouldn't use it, if they were on the market and passed Aussie standards I would probably be getting one ore two myself.
 

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