Caster Wedges??

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OneMofo

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Do these do what I think they do??
I`m assuming they sit between the leaf and the diff in the rear?? as I have found I am having un-even wear on the rear shoes, I just thought it was from before I rotated the wheels and it continued the un-even wear 9negative camber) from the front.
If I am correct how do I know weather to get 1, 2 or 3 degree wedges?? I`m picturing that a 2 degree wedge would suite best.

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=31_3119_51_345&products_id=5058
 
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Im sure they correct the pinion flange angle of the diff..ie lifted truck and the angle of uni joints on the tailshaft start to get a bit severe...to correct this you use a caster wedge.it lifts the front of the diff up enough to make everything line up again..under or overinflated tyres will give you eneven wear on the rear.
 
Im sure they correct the pinion flange angle of the diff..ie lifted truck and the angle of uni joints on the tailshaft start to get a bit severe...to correct this you use a caster wedge.it lifts the front of the diff up enough to make everything line up again..under or overinflated tyres will give you eneven wear on the rear.

Ok cool, maybe I was right about my rubber then as they are just worn more on the inner then the otter, think this is too much negative camber which must of been from the front. I just figured it would even out by the time they had worn down more.
Ahh yes after a bit of research I found you are correct I was confusing caster and camber.
 
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Ive got one maxxis bighorn that continues to wear out on the inside on the rear...im guessing the carcass is damaged somehow
 
I'll throw on a new set of Hercules soon and see how they wear if it happens again ill have it looked at. Thanks camo I don't seem to have vibration (other then balance) and ill sort that with some ceramic beads. See how that pans out.
 
I don't think rotating tyres brings the tyres back into shape if they have uneven wear but results in all 4 wearing at an equal rate. So if you have a bit too much negative camber on one or both of the front wheels, all 4 will eventually have more wear on the inner edge of the tyre, but at a much slower rate.

It is possible for the tyres to wear unevenly on a solid or beam axle if the axle is bent and from my understanding, if there is excessive weight on the axle which causes it to flex and results in wear on the inside edge.

I have had 3 alignments on mine (2 since the lift) and the inside fronts, particularly one, continue to wear.

It might only happen now when I am towing. With the tub full of stuff, passengers and 260kg on the ball, I think it's the overall weight and compression of the springs when going over undulations/dips in the road.

The backs wear more than he front with the weight of the van but the fronts wear on the inside. No matter how much I rotate them, they will eventually wear too much on the inside edge. I could take them to a tyre fitter and have the tyres flipped on the rims but that would result in the white lettering being visible, which I am not too keen on.

That said, they have done more than 40,000ks and still have heaps left on them.
 
I'm down to the test marker on the rear and the front are just cracking as they get fairly flogged when I go off road.
I just meant that I was going to use the ceramic beads a go (sound dirty I know) to get rid of the imbalance I have. I know they won't help with the in even wear.
I originally thought the front were wearing uneven due to the torsion bars not being wound up enough after the new UCAs were installed. Iv since wound them higher as they were a little low for my liking, well se how that helps or not. Thanks for the input I see where ur going and I think ur right it really can't be helped. Just annoying.
 
Has anyone used these? I have just done the rear on mine- leafs, bushes and U bolts.... If I do end up fitting these would I have to use new U bolts again?
 
Properly designed lifted springs shouldn't need them, usually they'd be used with extended shackles to correct the pinion angle for driveline vibrations.
 
Properly designed lifted springs shouldn't need them, usually they'd be used with extended shackles to correct the pinion angle for driveline vibrations.

Yeah well that's what you get when you buy Australian so it seems- all these so called 4x4 companies selling s&$%# products and not standing by them if it's not a so called intercooler "kits" sold from twats like at cross country to s&%$ leaf springs sold by blue trak or pac or whatever they call themselves..

The thing is I need them and I need to hear from those that have actually used them on a navara to get some idea of degrees and heights and the lift gained..
 
Longer shackles fitted with lifted springs are longer to deal with the fact that the spring has a longer arc length, so it is longer when at full compression.

The thing about universal joints is that they need to be in matched pairs with the same angle to cancel vibration, so you want your diff pinion axis to be parallel to the sub-tailshaft axis at ride height ("flat"). If the diff pinion axis is no longer parallel at ride height because of the shape of the particular aftermarket spring you have fitted, you will need to correct this using a caster wedge. If your lift is so huge that you have exceeded the working angle of the universal joints, you would be best with a custom tailshaft with some high-misalignment universal joints (like double cardan joints).
 
Longer shackles fitted with lifted springs are longer to deal with the fact that the spring has a longer arc length, so it is longer when at full compression.

The thing about universal joints is that they need to be in matched pairs with the same angle to cancel vibration, so you want your diff pinion axis to be parallel to the sub-tailshaft axis at ride height ("flat"). If the diff pinion axis is no longer parallel at ride height because of the shape of the particular aftermarket spring you have fitted, you will need to correct this using a caster wedge. If your lift is so huge that you have exceeded the working angle of the universal joints, you would be best with a custom tailshaft with some high-misalignment universal joints (like double cardan joints).

At the moment caster wedges are the cheaper way of seeing if it helps, The cardan joint is the next step if the wedges don't help.. http://lghttp.14077.nexcesscdn.net/...75e1f21611f3/1/2/1280driveshaft_angles_1_.jpg
 

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