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KraftyPg
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I believe there is a thread around here somewhere, possibly a member rides thread, where atleast two people have suggested their 2010 models don't have the DPF.
DPF on new STX
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The manuals never did, just the autos.
steve4wdin
Member
Yes Tony you are right, only autos, how ever due to euro emisions and our "great" diesel here in the land of oz the new 2010 model onwards are advanced enough not to need the shitty DPF.
bryce223
Member
hey guys, can you have a dpf on a manual st-x, i just serviced my mates d40 and it looked like it had a dpf on the back of the turbo. (am i looking at the right thing) we just sent over $100 on the right oil for a dpf and then i read only autos have them. what is the go
Leprechaun
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That was the cat you were looking at
Yep, it'll be the cat. Only the older autos had DPFs and the 140KW model autos don't.
bryce223
Member
so the cat is straight on the back of the turbo
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Krankin
Guest
Directly off the back end of the turbo is a "dump pipe" (manual describes it as a "exhaust outlet"), it turns the flow of gas 90 degrees. It has a shield bolted to the outside ("exhaust outlet cover").
Immediately below this pipe is the Catalyst which also has a cover.
Immediately below this pipe is the Catalyst which also has a cover.
bryce223
Member
oh ok so what is the best oil to run if it does not have a dpf??
The same oil would be good. The low ash specification (JASO-FD) is there not because of the DPF, but because of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. Blow-by causes engine oil to mist and the crankcase to pressurise, this mist is carried through the PCV into the intake manifold.
A normal oil would result in heavy particulates (ash) which would block the cat.
What you can do is fit a catch-can to the PCV line and eliminate this last issue.
Having done that, I'd still use the JASO-FD oil. Why? Because it's good oil. It's going to lubricate the bores of the engine as designed, it's going to handle being squirted on the underside of the pistons (in the YD25 motor, oil is squirted on the base of the piston crown to cool it after each combustion stroke).
Cheaper oils may not withstand everything that the diesel engine will throw at it, and that will kill the motor really fast. When the price tag on a new YD25 runs over $20K, it's easier to consider better oil as an insurance policy.
A normal oil would result in heavy particulates (ash) which would block the cat.
What you can do is fit a catch-can to the PCV line and eliminate this last issue.
Having done that, I'd still use the JASO-FD oil. Why? Because it's good oil. It's going to lubricate the bores of the engine as designed, it's going to handle being squirted on the underside of the pistons (in the YD25 motor, oil is squirted on the base of the piston crown to cool it after each combustion stroke).
Cheaper oils may not withstand everything that the diesel engine will throw at it, and that will kill the motor really fast. When the price tag on a new YD25 runs over $20K, it's easier to consider better oil as an insurance policy.
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Krankin
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Leprechaun
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If my memory is correct, I'm fairly sure the dump pipe and catalytic converter are all the same one piece casting.
Might be now. The manual for the 2005 Euro model that I have shows the two items bolting together with gaskets between and separate shields.
I've not actually stuck my head in and taken a look. Bosshog could probably tell us because he's popped his DPF out.
Leprechaun
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Yes the dump pipe and Cat are separate casting.
