Driving Lights - Adjusting beams

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Beergutz

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Lads,

Can anyone give any pointers on how to best direct driving light beam spread to an optimum position?

I have IPF900 lights. 1 spot and one spreader and they seem to be positioned low and was wondering if there is a spec to set them up to an ideal position?

Thanks in advance.
 
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I ran spots and spreads on my old truck. I ran the spot on the right to shine down the middle of the road so it was focues maybe 200m down the road. The spread was on the left and aimed roughly the same but the nature of the beam meant it pretty much filled in the light pattern from the front of the truck to maybe 100m so you have full vision in both distance and closer and the spread also lit up the sides as well.
Thats was how mine was for many years and I found it worked really well.
It really comes down to what you like best
 
As Aussie says it's a preference. I don't care what's in the middle of the road 200m in front of me because chances are by the time I get to it it wont be there, I care about what's lurking on the shoulder or beyond because they are the things that are more likely to come at me.

When driving at night both my lights are focused on the outer road edge and the splash goes into the srcub and in the center the splash from each just touches. I don't focus on the white line I focus on the edges of the road, scanning across the road from side to side shows me what I need to know in the middle while the side to side glances allow me to pick up the glimmer of eyes in the scrub. Many animals blend into their surroundings at night, even more so when lights are shinned on them so looking for the glimmer of eyes instead of trying to turn night into day with the brightest lights in the world has saved my arse more times than I can count but living in the bush it's inevitable that your going to hit something at some time.

When driving at night the obvious thing to consider is speed and just what is safe, it's not about how safe the road is it's about how quickly you can stop to avoid something, knowing the way animals move is a big advantage but it doesn't change the fact that at 100kph in the darkness a wombat shooting out of the scrub can easily launch you into the bush where as at 80kph it might give you enough distance to swerve or brake. I've bounced hundreds of different animals from owls to wombats to cows to 8 foot roos off the front of the truck and it makes no difference what you hit them with something is going to give, steel, alloy, tin everything bends when something big is hit and the only way to minimise the damage is to avoid the hit and slowing down even 20kph makes a huge difference. But being prepared for what is going to be on the road rather than what is on the road makes even more difference.
 
+1 for setting them up for your personal usage.

We do both highway touring and forest trails. We have IPF800XS fitted, one spot one flood. The spot is aimed straight down the road to maximise distance viewing and the flood is aimed at the centre of the the driving line so that it shines equally on both sides of the road (as much as possible).

On the highway that's fine, but in the tight forest trails it's often insufficient and I'm looking at adding some lower-wattage floods aimed to each side (about 30 degrees off the driving line) so I can see a bit more of what's around the corner.
 
In terms of how to physically aim them, the best "backyard" technique is to park up within about 1m of a wall or garage door. Turn the lights on and adjust the lamp until the "sweet spot" is about where you want it (in relation to the high beam spread). That way you can judge side to side coverage and within reason the distance. Once you're reasonably happy, nip it up so they can still be moved and road test on a dark road. Do the final adjustment then tighten them up to their final position.
KB
 
Being the diplomat, I agree with all the posts....seriously.

Yes, line up the beams against a wall making sure the vehicle is level. I do them individually by covering up the high beams & putting a bag over the other driving light. This is only to get them reasonably straight & level. Then do the final on road adjustment which will be set to your preference.

I had a board that I would use against a wall with marked lines so I could adjust the headlights but it was not of much use with a combination light set.

I reckon nearly as many roos have hit the side of my cars as the front. Last week one shook himself off after the first hit only to run straight into the front of my stationary car. This week one run into the side & was consequently run over by the back wheel.

The roos seem to be as bad as the mice this year. I went out today & bought some of those stick on roo whistles (or whatever they are), hoping to deter them. The whistles are probably as effective as using foul language but at least they only cost 5 bucks.
 
i agree with others saying personal preference. for me spot on drivers side to shoot the light path direct in front of you as far as possible(200m mark), then the spread on passenger side to light up left hand side of road plus work in with the spot in front. i do mostly highway driving so its sufficient enough for me. then again i mite change the setup once i get the hids in depending on ho they work.
 
i adjust mine but by the time i need to use them all im doing is burning possums
 
90% of my driving is night driving.

The spread is on the passenger side and the pencil is on the drivers side.

As Krafty said, seeing whats on the fogline is very handy.

I have hit 6 roo's in my Nav, 1 wallaby and a few rabbits etc and as of last night a milk crate.

However the spotties have saved me a heap more times.
 

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