ctec and redarc sell smart chargers for "eco" alternators
better than a simple solenoid setup
Dual battery setup
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ctec and redarc sell smart chargers for "eco" alternators
better than a simple solenoid setup
gunning1987
Member
This is there fix:
so when the alt is showing low current it automatically switches to solar????
what if you have no solar?
i installed a ctec d250s dual for a mate not long ago
he also had permanent solar on roof
there was no relay involved?
alt imput and solar were each connected to unit seperatly
the unit simply switched to solar charging when ign is off
i believe the redarc senses low volts from eco alt but still charges when ign is on
http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads/images/BCDC1225-LV_Instruction_Manual.pdf
what if you have no solar?
i installed a ctec d250s dual for a mate not long ago
he also had permanent solar on roof
there was no relay involved?
alt imput and solar were each connected to unit seperatly
the unit simply switched to solar charging when ign is off
i believe the redarc senses low volts from eco alt but still charges when ign is on
http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads/images/BCDC1225-LV_Instruction_Manual.pdf
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d40ryan
Member
this is how i plan to do it have done it twice without the relay on mates cars. that drawing seems wrong as theres a alternator input and a solar input.... putting a relay in to switch when the ignition is off would defeat the purpose of having the smart charger....?
ok so back to my thing i plan on using one of these big cat batterys as space is not an issue and i can guarantee you with fridge and other shit i run including lights amps pumps and inverters 200ah is a safe bet
http://www.cat.com/cda/files/3049510/7/PEHJ0073-02.pdf
i am looking at the 153-5710 first page of them. can anyone see anything more suited among this list.?
bods
Member
Looking at that diagram, the relay is set up so that when the ignition is on the alternator is sending power to the battery all the time, then the solar kicks in when the key is off. Obviously if no solar then no charging when the key is off
it also states low ignition it wont charge?
bods
Member
I was thinking low as in off, but I can see your point... It does seem like a weird setup though if that's the way they try and sell them...
If you look at almost any battery you'll find either an RC (reserve capacity, the number of minutes the battery can maintain a useful voltage while delivering 25A) or an Ah (the number of amps per hour you can draw for 20 hours before the battery falls below 10.75V = dead flat). Some say the RC is a better gauge of capacity than the Ah - but the RC value (remember, that's minutes) will often be around double the Ah rating, so you can generally figure one from the other.
For auxiliary purposes these are more important than CCA, which is the number of amps the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 0F (zero degrees Fahrenheit). It's also easier to work out capacity in Ah - so that's generally what I'll use. I prefer simple math.
Now on to those dual battery issues with the new alternators - there are new isolators that deal with it. Look for them in the Redarc range at least (I think they're the model with the 'i' in the model number).
d40ryan
Member
cheers mate. also if you have two batterys same ah one starter one deep cycle is there really a difference? that diagram seems whack still its basically saying put the alternator onto the solar input and nothing onto the alternator input on the charger.
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This is there fix:
I looked at that. Reading it and looking at the diagram it almost does two different things. Don't get the idea of smart alternators.
It's basically a standard double pole relay wired in reverse so it switches input based on the state of the ignition. Ignition on and it activates the relay, closing the circuit between the alternator and the CTek charger. Switch the ignition off and the relay clicks off, returning to the default solar->charger. It makes sense if you know how solar chargers work.
The C-Tek charger is designed to take fluctuating inputs on the solar input and manage that into a usable power source for charging. The alternator input of the CTek expects a fairly consistent input (probably hard-wired in the range of 14.1-14.7V). I guess that means they don't have to reinvent the wheel and can just draw power from the cranker until the alternator figures it needs to juice it up again.
The one warning I'd make with this one: don't leave your car in ACC ON (or ignition on, engine off) for extended periods of time, because it will draw power from the starter without stopping.
The C-Tek charger is designed to take fluctuating inputs on the solar input and manage that into a usable power source for charging. The alternator input of the CTek expects a fairly consistent input (probably hard-wired in the range of 14.1-14.7V). I guess that means they don't have to reinvent the wheel and can just draw power from the cranker until the alternator figures it needs to juice it up again.
The one warning I'd make with this one: don't leave your car in ACC ON (or ignition on, engine off) for extended periods of time, because it will draw power from the starter without stopping.
Reading it what I understand is that the low cut out is lower then most. So the red arc will keep working even when the alt is in in lazy mode
gunning1987
Member
That makes sense, well kinda. Thinking its better to just get the redarc that is designed for it or tho the price is a different matter.
I think then you may damaged the charge.
gunning1987
Member
How can it damage the charger when all the relay is offering is a optional type of charge.
here is redarcs low voltage dc/dc charger
This is about as good as gets for a dual battery system solution, with many four wheel drivers and people towing a vehicle set up with 2 different battery technologies ( start battery being lead acid ) and the auxiliary battery being another , say AGM , it is difficult to get long life or full charge our of the second/auxiliary battery.
THIS IS THE SOLUTION , the BCDC12225LV is a battery isolator and a 3 stage battery charger in one Isolating the start battery with the ignition off and a BOOST , FLOAT and ABSORPTION charger This unit will also compensate for low voltage wiring to it and the auxiliary battery DOES NOT RELY on the alternator to receive it's charge rate which in a lot of cases is not the optimum anyway, So if you need more battery capacity from your system consider this as an alternative you may have enough , just the Auxiliary battery may not be getting it's full charge.This unit also features MPPT ( maximum power point tracking ) solar regulator for connecting in with a solar panel system as well.
cheaper on ebay,same wty from factory
i can reccomend this seller
have bought heaps from him with no issues
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDARC-B..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d39d0525a&_uhb=1
This is about as good as gets for a dual battery system solution, with many four wheel drivers and people towing a vehicle set up with 2 different battery technologies ( start battery being lead acid ) and the auxiliary battery being another , say AGM , it is difficult to get long life or full charge our of the second/auxiliary battery.
THIS IS THE SOLUTION , the BCDC12225LV is a battery isolator and a 3 stage battery charger in one Isolating the start battery with the ignition off and a BOOST , FLOAT and ABSORPTION charger This unit will also compensate for low voltage wiring to it and the auxiliary battery DOES NOT RELY on the alternator to receive it's charge rate which in a lot of cases is not the optimum anyway, So if you need more battery capacity from your system consider this as an alternative you may have enough , just the Auxiliary battery may not be getting it's full charge.This unit also features MPPT ( maximum power point tracking ) solar regulator for connecting in with a solar panel system as well.
cheaper on ebay,same wty from factory
i can reccomend this seller
have bought heaps from him with no issues
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDARC-B..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d39d0525a&_uhb=1
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