EGR disable for D40 v9x engine

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iank84

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melbourne australia
After reading lots of contributions regarding egr blanking etc (and the results) it seems there are 3 options (please let me know if there are more)
1. the blanking plate, hole etc and regular clean to prevent flow control codes
2. map it out in the ecu. requires expertise by someone who has the equipment, price?
3. blanking plate and trick the ecu by sending it the flow control voltages to the ecu that it expects to prevent code errors. This is the method that seems logical to me
I notice there are cables advertised on ebay (probably with smarts in them) that claim to achieve it.
Has anyone tried this one below please, at $130 its a bit pricey to try if it doesn't work:)

"AOB EGR 008 FOR NISSAN NAVARA D40 STX V9X V6 3.0L TD Turbo Diesel Engines"

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3043579...97&osub=-1~1&crd=20230611054315&segname=11050
 
I would try the plate first. Looks like you can achieve 90% of the effect with 5% of the cost.
thanks for the reply. Agree but I dont want to have to periodically pull it apart as the plate hole size deteriorates, plus I'd rather have the thing disabled shut, so it never opens and no exhaust gas. cheers
 
thanks for the reply. Agree but I dont want to have to periodically pull it apart as the plate hole size deteriorates, plus I'd rather have the thing disabled shut, so it never opens and no exhaust gas. cheers
I am suprised with the "regular cleanup" requirement. YD25 ECU apparently does not throw error and does not need the hole. 3.0 may be different. I had it blocked with a plate with a hole in it for the sensor in 2.0 Ford mondeo and for 3 years there was no engine code, so only experience I have with the hole was that for around 30kkm it did not clog causing error, so did not need cleaning.
 
After reading lots of contributions regarding egr blanking etc (and the results) it seems there are 3 options (please let me know if there are more)
1. the blanking plate, hole etc and regular clean to prevent flow control codes
2. map it out in the ecu. requires expertise by someone who has the equipment, price?
3. blanking plate and trick the ecu by sending it the flow control voltages to the ecu that it expects to prevent code errors. This is the method that seems logical to me
I notice there are cables advertised on ebay (probably with smarts in them) that claim to achieve it.
Has anyone tried this one below please, at $130 its a bit pricey to try if it doesn't work:)

"AOB EGR 008 FOR NISSAN NAVARA D40 STX V9X V6 3.0L TD Turbo Diesel Engines"

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3043579...97&osub=-1~1&crd=20230611054315&segname=11050
Hi, I got one of those for my V9X after frequently getting EGR codes for insufficient gas flow. Agree it's a bit pricey but it fixed the problem. It goes into what I assume is the MAF sensor plug next to the air filter and takes only a couple of minutes to install.
 
After reading lots of contributions regarding egr blanking etc (and the results) it seems there are 3 options (please let me know if there are more)
1. the blanking plate, hole etc and regular clean to prevent flow control codes
2. map it out in the ecu. requires expertise by someone who has the equipment, price?
3. blanking plate and trick the ecu by sending it the flow control voltages to the ecu that it expects to prevent code errors. This is the method that seems logical to me
I notice there are cables advertised on ebay (probably with smarts in them) that claim to achieve it.
Has anyone tried this one below please, at $130 its a bit pricey to try if it doesn't work:)

"AOB EGR 008 FOR NISSAN NAVARA D40 STX V9X V6 3.0L TD Turbo Diesel Engines"

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3043579...97&osub=-1~1&crd=20230611054315&segname=11050
Yes ive had that module on mine for some time without issue
 
Another thing to consider, the egr valve is closed on starting and above 1,000 rpm. So unless you leave the engine idling or drive a lot in slow moving traffic, you really don't need to do anything.
I had a look at mine, 250k Kms, no soot build up.
 
I am suprised with the "regular cleanup" requirement. YD25 ECU apparently does not throw error and does not need the hole. 3.0 may be different. I had it blocked with a plate with a hole in it for the sensor in 2.0 Ford mondeo and for 3 years there was no engine code, so only experience I have with the hole was that for around 30kkm it did not clog causing error, so did not need cleaning.
Tha.nks for the reply. I've just been quoting what others have posted in other threads
 
T
Hi, I got one of those for my V9X after frequently getting EGR codes for insufficient gas flow. Agree it's a bit pricey but it fixed the problem. It goes into what I assume is the MAF sensor plug next to the air filter and takes only a couple of minutes to install.
Thanks for the reply, good to know they work and easy to install. Great to know it disables the EGR from opening at all. I will go that way I think. I was expecting to make something electronic but will forego the hours of research required. Out of interest how often did you get a code error? and did you lose boost when it errored?
Thanks Ian
 
Another thing to consider, the egr valve is closed on starting and above 1,000 rpm. So unless you leave the engine idling or drive a lot in slow moving traffic, you really don't need to do anything.
I had a look at mine, 250k Kms, no soot build up.
Thanks Landmannnn, that is good to know how it operates. I guess the good thing if it's disabled off with the module, it ain't going to wear out and need replacing.
Thanks ian
 
T

Thanks for the reply, good to know they work and easy to install. Great to know it disables the EGR from opening at all. I will go that way I think. I was expecting to make something electronic but will forego the hours of research required. Out of interest how often did you get a code error? and did you lose boost when it errored?
Thanks Ian
I can't remember if it lost boost when the light came on as it was a couple of years ago, but I wouldn't have been concerned unless there was some adverse performance issue. In the finish it would come on every day and when cleared it would generally stay off until the next engine start. Sorry I can't be more specific.
Cheers
Ian
 
I can't remember if it lost boost when the light came on as it was a couple of years ago, but I wouldn't have been concerned unless there was some adverse performance issue. In the finish it would come on every day and when cleared it would generally stay off until the next engine start. Sorry I can't be more specific.
Cheers
Ian
No worries thanks for the reply. Mine had no boost and struggled to get up the hill to get home. I cleared the fault code and engine back to normal performance. Seems a such a coincidence, so i'm hoping they are interrelated.
 
No worries thanks for the reply. Mine had no boost and struggled to get up the hill to get home. I cleared the fault code and engine back to normal performance. Seems a such a coincidence, so i'm hoping they are interrelated.
FYI I installed this one to try. Airbox end of the cable very difficult to get the connector to lock without a fair bit of force (certainly more than I would like) so not so impressed with that. Not impressed with the connector quality on mine. Other end of cable was ok.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3043579...97&osub=-1~1&crd=20230611054315&segname=11050
 
Another thing to consider, the egr valve is closed on starting and above 1,000 rpm. So unless you leave the engine idling or drive a lot in slow moving traffic, you really don't need to do anything.
I had a look at mine, 250k Kms, no soot build up.
Who would have thought it. Trouble free for 250k Kms. Less than a week after posting I don't have issues, I get an EGR code....

Thanks ,,,🤥
 
Thats a bugger!
I wonder how the egr is monitored by the ecu. If anyone has details of the cable pinouts or wiring we can see what is sent to the ecu. If the egr only opens periodically then maybe they monitor gas flow rate through the egr when its open?
 
Last edited:
I don't think this is a Nissan pinout, but it shows the principles nicely.

In my case the air intake hose was very loose, so I hope that sorted my problem
 

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Not 100% sure I've sorted it though!

Yes, some kind of air flow monitor similar to a MAF that outputs air flow rates in the form of resistance. The ECU then does some comparisons to see if the values are within tolerance.
 

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