lowering cross member on front diff

[ShortyNavros]

You are correct with the pinion angle. Maybe we need to get someone with the kit fitted to take of their front prop shaft and measure their pinion angle. And yeah using a new cross member will drop the front of the diff while the rear remains stationary(offset bushes in the rear might drop by 10mm). Maybe the solution would be to use the offset bushes on the rear cross member but not the front, but this reduces the amount the front diff is dropped. The logical answer is to fabricate two new cross members front and rear so that the diff is dropped evenly front to back by the same amount and hence keeps the same pinion angle. Could also use the offset bushes as well to get the maximum possible.

 

[vicszd30]

You are correct with the pinion angle. Maybe we need to get someone with the kit fitted to take of their front prop shaft and measure their pinion angle. And yeah using a new cross member will drop the front of the diff while the rear remains stationary(offset bushes in the rear might drop by 10mm). Maybe the solution would be to use the offset bushes on the rear cross member but not the front, but this reduces the amount the front diff is dropped. The logical answer is to fabricate two new cross members front and rear so that the diff is dropped evenly front to back by the same amount and hence keeps the same pinion angle. Could also use the offset bushes as well to get the maximum possible.

And that's about it for this topic ! Yeah spot on, that's why I thought I'd buy 2 second hand ones and have them on the table and work from that!
Apart from the bike she'b my only way to get around- unless I go all "transit India/Asia" and strap a ladder to the side of the bike..
What I was thinking -if I can't match the tube/pipe diameter for the rear cross member (one with the bushes) I can always plaz' the ones off the second hand cross member.. The front one is rather simple with it's "lay out" but once you start to look at the angles of t/case to f/diff that's the part that puts me on the back foot. Shite "I think I've just worked out the rear pinion angle issues!
Yeahhh Don't know about the drop bushes "personally I'd like all the mounting points to have as much rubber/urethane around them as possible" ,so if I can keep them original I would be much happier me thinks! But in saying that "If I couldn't do what I am hoping to do I would go with the bushes over "SLINKY'S Kit" any day!
Now that I have the new bump stops in I can finally measure how much room there is to drop it under droop- Going a 3'' lift you may have to take it down as low as leaving 5 to 8mm of the L/C/A to get a decent angle on the C/V.. But with the 2'' lift I have I may not have to get that close, so a diff drop of say 20mm might work...
I do know one thing- with the rear cross member I intend to give the sump a little more protection. I don't know if you have been under yours and looked forward to the sump but the rear cross member lifts up a exposes the corner of the sump. I am wondering if it is formed like that to disperse the torsion made from the diff?? Any thoughts ??? Compare the difference between the two mounting/fixing points of each rubber bush containment tube.
I know pictures pictures pictures- I wish I could do more than I do but once the hands are dirty and your in full swing it's hard to keep a photo journal of all the works.
I'll keep you'allllll posted.....

 

[bods]

Get a gopro and strap it to your head while you're working under there lol. Then at least you'll have high def video you can do screen shots from for pics.....

 

[vicszd30]

Get a gopro and strap it to your head while you're working under there lol. Then at least you'll have high def video you can do screen shots from for pics.....

I thought you where going somewhere else with that as I started reading, lol I was waiting for the "and then once you have it taped to your head go and stick it up ya'arse"..

Good point though, That and make up a "welding jig" for the new lower cross members. Making them for me is not the issue it's the "angles of the dangles" and "how much is enough" and getting that right -that's the time consuming part. And if I'm going to this much trouble I might as well make a "jig" so others can use it to do there's.
. Trial and error as they say- I'll keep you'all posted!

 

[vicszd30]

I have to do the rear pinion shims hopefully next week so I will start with that .. I'll try holding the camera for that one, I wish I had a "go pro" - it's going to be painful taping my phone to my head with ye'ol duct tape I'd say!

 

[bods]

I think the only painful part will be removing the tape hahaha

 

[vicszd30]

arhhh yeah that's where I was going lol nothing like a forehead wax.... They are a trick item though heay . I have one mate that takes his surfing and another mate that has one on a drone and the footage is just brilliant... who knew duct tape was water proof

 

[vicszd30]

AAAnd no- I'm still working on the rear, every time I think I have it worked out I read another blog and get conflicting info each time lol I'm thinking of lifting the gear box now !

Yesterday I noticed grease all over the front left wheel components - yup C.V Boot shat it's self grr So C.V's have to come out when I do the diff for a re-pack and new boots all round! It just never stops .....

I will clean and re-pack mine so I wont need this but have a look at this process.. brilliant stuff.
I read one bloke made a cone out of a plastic coke bottle- how cool! Ahhhh Coke- is there anything you cant do
How trick is this- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so9gMxzJH4k