"Massive fuel leak" error code question.

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Could a dud battery (cell shorted, only providing 10.7v) have been causing the titular error code when the battery was beginning to fail? The daughter's d40 has had an intermittent issue with this failt sending the vehicle into limp. The only time I could get it started on the weekend, before diagnosing the battery, it was permanently "limp" even after clearing logged faults. So much so, the vehicle wouldn't even move. New battery this morning, no fault code, no limp, and running like a dream. I theorise that low voltage on startup could have returned the incorrect value from the fuel pressure sensor, triggering the fault and limp mode ...
 
Could a dud battery (cell shorted, only providing 10.7v) have been causing the titular error code when the battery was beginning to fail? The daughter's d40 has had an intermittent issue with this failt sending the vehicle into limp. The only time I could get it started on the weekend, before diagnosing the battery, it was permanently "limp" even after clearing logged faults. So much so, the vehicle wouldn't even move. New battery this morning, no fault code, no limp, and running like a dream. I theorise that low voltage on startup could have returned the incorrect value from the fuel pressure sensor, triggering the fault and limp mode ...

I'd have to say "yes", it's possible.

Most sensors work on sending a known voltage to the sensor and the sensor varies the return signal by an amount that's related to the thing the sensor is reading. Example: send 12V to the coolant temp sensor and it it sends back 12V the coolant is at 0 degrees, if it sends back 11.9 it's at 10 degrees etc (NOTE: this is NOT the actual return values, I'm just discussing the process of getting data, not the actual data for the coolant sensor).

Knowing that, if the wrong voltage is sent to the sensor (and most sensors are simple resistance devices) then the return signal is going to be wrong too. In the above example, if you only send 10V to the sensor you might only get back 9.9V which might look like the coolant is already at 110 degrees (no, again, I'm just demonstrating the idea on how the data is retrieved).

The voltage sent to the sensors is generally governed by a special circuit in the ECU which provides a stable known voltage for sensor operation. This circuit could be damaged (unlikely) or it could be receiving poor voltage itself, resulting in a poor reference voltage. I thought they'd have done the utmost to ensure the circuit always maintained a specific reference voltage but if I've learned anything from being involved in this forum - almost anything's possible.
 

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