New clutch issues

[CarlJT]

I've had a new clutch installed with new master cylinder I'm having issues changing into first, 4th to 5th and 4th to 3rd. It's been pressure bled, I drove home 500ks and it seemed to improve slightly along the way, I'm just wondering if this is still an issue with being bled or if this is normal for breaking in period? Or if there is any other reason which could cause this. It seems when I press on pedal it's barley disengaging clutch as a few mm of distance it starts to grab? Is there any other adjustments I can give it to tention up pedal?

 

[Horatius]

I doubt it's normal. Mine slipped the first couple of times I took off in the driveway, then was all good after that. It's difficult to believe someone would be capable of changing the clutch, and then not able to bleed it properly (but who knows). If not clutch, could be a gearbox problem?

There is an adjustment on the master cylinder connection to the pedal, usually adjusted to give some play at the top of the pedal, no adjustment on the clutch itself.

 

[CarlJT]

I doubt it's normal. Mine slipped the first couple of times I took off in the driveway, then was all good after that. It's difficult to believe someone would be capable of changing the clutch, and then not able to bleed it properly (but who knows). If not clutch, could be a gearbox problem?

There is an adjustment on the master cylinder connection to the pedal, usually adjusted to give some play at the top of the pedal, no adjustment on the clutch itself.

Will try bleed myself see how that goes... Is there typically any issues with bleeding these clutch systems that could cause issues? Is the adjustment inside cab on pedal or in engine bay with master cylinder?

 

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should have some free travel at slave cylinder,fork to thrust bearing (1+mm free travel at rod to piston contact) also at clutch pedal ( up to 5mm) free travel

 

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you should be able to feel the free travel of fork contacting thrust bearing by removing the return spring at slave cylinder 1mm gap down below at pushrod , translates to 5 to10 mm at thrust bearing , its fulcram set up should have this info in repair manuals , possibly diff adj for heavy duty setups

 

[Horatius]

Will try bleed myself see how that goes... Is there typically any issues with bleeding these clutch systems that could cause issues? Is the adjustment inside cab on pedal or in engine bay with master cylinder?

A piece of cake to bleed. The pedal/ push rod adjustment is inside the cab.

The thrust bearing has to be installed a particular way on these also, would be easy to get it wrong. Don't think that would stop it working though, afaik just means they wear out in no time.

 

[Nig]

If it had a aftermarket setup installed you need need to put a longer push rod on the slave cylinder , ,. Make one from a hardenned 10mm bolt or rod, push the rod back in the slave cylinder with you fingers while holding the folk end forwards measure the play gap ,make the new rod longer to fit the extra gap with rounded off ends same as the old one with a 3 to 5mm play, instal this check it has a little free play, is somthing on utube i think. You will have to unbolt the slave cylinder to get the rod out and in again, this fixed mine was same problem.

 

[CarlJT]

If it had a aftermarket setup installed you need need to put a longer push rod on the slave cylinder , ,. Make one from a hardenned 10mm bolt or rod, push the rod back in the slave cylinder with you fingers while holding the folk end forwards measure the play gap ,make the new rod longer to fit the extra gap with rounded off ends same as the old one with a 3 to 5mm play, instal this check it has a little free play, is somthing on utube i think. You will have to unbolt the slave cylinder to get the rod out and in again, this fixed mine was same problem.

Slave cylinder or master cylinder? The one at gearbox?

 

[Horatius]

Think he is talking about the slave cylinder (have heard of it), though I don't want to talk for him so wait and see what he says. At least I put an aftermarket master cylinder in and had no problems, everything fitted same as the factory one.

 

[CarlJT]

Think he is talking about the slave cylinder (have heard of it), though I don't want to talk for him so wait and see what he says. At least I put an aftermarket master cylinder in and had no problems, everything fitted same as the factory one.

Yes I've adjustest master to max distance and has improved. Just wondering if I should extend master fork out further or slave

 

[Horatius]

Shouldn't need to do anything to either. Has the slave cylinder been changed? I think what he was saying (though I'm not sure) is that the pushrod on certain after market slave cylinders is too short. Why that would be I have no idea, though I have heard of it.

 

[CarlJT]

Shouldn't need to do anything to either. Has the slave cylinder been changed? I think what he was saying (though I'm not sure) is that the pushrod on certain after market slave cylinders is too short. Why that would be I have no idea, though I have heard of it.

Only changed master cylinder with an aftermarket one

 

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wsome slave cylinder have an adjustable rod if not , if its too short the clutch pedal will have exesive free down movement (you would expect crunching of gears or hard to put in and pull out of gears. if its too long there is not enough movement ... i would expect it could eventually cause clutch slipage.
in this situation i would try changing gears before the clutch pedal reaches full travel to see if its easier to change gears.
not related to this i created a problem on a tractor where i could not pull gear into neutral.. john deer 10/20 where the clutch plate faces the opposite way , exremely deep recess in fly wheel. it left no room for any travel of lever so the the pressure plate was exessivey compressing and permantly locking the clutch against fly wheel..

 

[Nig]

What im saying is the clutch pack is slightly thinner, and or the thrust race is thinner, so you get more play in the slave cylinder, needs a longer rod, did it to mine fixed the same problem.

 

[CarlJT]

What im saying is the clutch pack is slightly thinner, and or the thrust race is thinner, so you get more play in the slave cylinder, needs a longer rod, did it to mine fixed the same problem.

Will give this a go. Thanks

 

[CarlJT]

If it had a aftermarket setup installed you need need to put a longer push rod on the slave cylinder , ,. Make one from a hardenned 10mm bolt or rod, push the rod back in the slave cylinder with you fingers while holding the folk end forwards measure the play gap ,make the new rod longer to fit the extra gap with rounded off ends same as the old one with a 3 to 5mm play, instal this check it has a little free play, is somthing on utube i think. You will have to unbolt the slave cylinder to get the rod out and in again, this fixed mine was same problem.

After removing slave cylinder will rod just pull out?

 

[Horatius]

Interesting and makes sense when you think about it. Yes the push rod should be easy enough to get out. Notice they sell adjustable ones on fleabay. I'd be careful though to make sure it isn't too long and you don't end up with the thrust bearing being forced on to the clutch. Adjusting the fork pivot point would probably do the same thing. It's not that difficult if you take the rubber boot off, wouldn't like to drop anything in there though.

 

[Nig]

After removing slave cylinder will rod just pull out?

Yes mate dont worry about the groove around it, make one from a cut down bolt, make sure when you put it all back it has some 5mm play or the clutch will slip.see utube mate.

 

[Nig]

Just let you know im a seasoned mechanic of 48 years , not just a parts fitter, if it dont add up i make it work, just saying cheers.

 

[CarlJT]

Just let you know im a seasoned mechanic of 48 years , not just a parts fitter, if it dont add up i make it work, just saying cheers.

Do you know the length/diameter of push rod for stock, rather make one up a few mm longer before taking it out, may aswell get a new slave cylinder at same time however. Do slave cylinders need bench bleeding or will they bleed easily?