tub storage and extra fuel tank

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That looks very neat. Couple of questions if that's cool ...

1) Did you put a conducting strap between the tank (especially the metal neck where the bowser nozzle will contact) and the tub body, and did you put an additional grounding cable between the tub and the vehicle chassis to ensure no problems there?

2) How do you cope with diesel dribbling out of the bowser nozzle as it's being put inside or removed?

3) How do you transfer fuel from this tank to the main tank - is that what the switch on the dash is for?

4) Depending on the answer to 3) - if it is a manual transfer, is there a mechanism to prevent you from overfilling the main tank?

5) Do you have a gauge showing how much fuel is in the auxiliary tank?

I did mine the easy way - paid ARB to install it. Nowhere near as ingenious as yours, but I also need to have as much room in the tub as possible. Wife and I were discussing the possibility of upgrading vehicle, and we decided to get our Navara engineered to tow 3.5T rather than buy a Pathfinder - because that space in the back is SO valuable to us.

I think it's a great job, wish I had half the skill you do!
 
Being a Engineer in the Navy, fueling Ships, Boats and fuel trucks is a common part of my job. Cars and the like are a bit of a different issue than ships, however the same principle applies.

Without going to far indepth on this issue, static electricity is potential energy (stored energy) is only a issue if the fuel hose/nozzel is at a different potential than your car. The release of this energy from one to the other creates the spark.

If the fuel nozzel is put into your car and stays in contact with the filling neck of your tank you are keeping the car and the nozzel at the same potential. If you have your car and the fuel hose at the same potential, no spark, no issue.

We earth our Boats to the wharf which avoids the static charge issue when fueling by pipeline from the wharf. When we are fueling by tanker we use a earth cable from the tanker to the boat. This puts the tanker and the boat at the same potential.

A simple solution would be to have a stud welded to you tank and a earth cable with a clip attached, have the cable long enough that you can run it to a earth point outside your car when fueling.
 
That looks very neat. Couple of questions if that's cool ...

1) Did you put a conducting strap between the tank (especially the metal neck where the bowser nozzle will contact) and the tub body, and did you put an additional grounding cable between the tub and the vehicle chassis to ensure no problems there?

2) How do you cope with diesel dribbling out of the bowser nozzle as it's being put inside or removed?

3) How do you transfer fuel from this tank to the main tank - is that what the switch on the dash is for?

4) Depending on the answer to 3) - if it is a manual transfer, is there a mechanism to prevent you from overfilling the main tank?

5) Do you have a gauge showing how much fuel is in the auxiliary tank?

I did mine the easy way - paid ARB to install it. Nowhere near as ingenious as yours, but I also need to have as much room in the tub as possible. Wife and I were discussing the possibility of upgrading vehicle, and we decided to get our Navara engineered to tow 3.5T rather than buy a Pathfinder - because that space in the back is SO valuable to us.

I think it's a great job, wish I had half the skill you do!

hey mate in answer to your questions.

1. didnt do anything with that situation so no conducting or earth strap.
2.Nothing much can be done there really, have a rag in the back to just wipe up any small spills but other than that.
3. yep that switch flicks on a one way solonoid, gravity feding the fuel into the main tank.. nothing to stop over filling but common sense really. no gauge for my extra tank but if i kno its full i wont switch it over until my main tank is around 1/4 full.. and the switch is wired into the ignition so when they keys off it shuts off and wont keep trickling in..

over all im pretty happy with it, doing everything myslf and my mate folding and welding up the tank it only cost me about 350-400 in materials and a box of beer. cant go wrong.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top